The Hill's unsung heroes

Aside from the murals of Italian landmarks and the portrait of the Virgin Mary, the most memorable thing about Eovaldi’s Deli and Catering is its sandwiches. Sure, Eovaldi’s also offers pastas, pizzas and salads, but the sandwiches, which take up half the menu and range from $4 to $11, are the heart of this deli on The Hill. It’d be easy to stick with the classic hot salami, roast beef or cod fillet, but the thing to order here is anything that includes Eovaldi’s smooth and spicy red sauce, Bomber Gravy or flavorful salsiccia, all made in-house. The best of these is The Daddy. It comes with a combination of handmade meatballs and tender salsiccia that exploits the fennel and other spices necessary for a tasty sandwich filler. It's finished off with the red sauce, and, because this is St. Louis Italian, Provel cheese. As a whole, it's spicy but not too much so, and is served warm on soft, thin French bread that doesn't overpower any of the individual ingredients, allowing this sandwich to live up to its sturdy name. But if you aren't in the mood for a heavy, saucy bite, consider the Sicilian Bomber, another winner that serves up warm roast beef, salami, pepper cheese and Bomber Gravy. This meat-heavy sandwich is also served on French bread and brings to the table a mixture of savory and sweet, thanks to the house-made gravy of perfectly sautéed onions, tender red peppers and mellow mushrooms. But don’t think floury/creamy/salty gravy you'd eat with your turkey and stuffing; this is clear and smooth, save for the chunks of delicious veggies. The veal Parmesan sandwich, which is tender on the inside and crispy on the outside, takes a little longer to prepare than any of the others. Topped with mozzarella, Parmesan and red sauce, it’s good for the price but doesn't necessarily stand out as Eovaldi's best. Some sandwiches are offered on garlic cheese bread for a mere $1 extra, and doing so with this sandwich made a big difference. The salsiccia sandwich includes the house-made sausage cut lengthwise, smothered in red sauce and Provel. This overabundance of sauce caused the already-flimsy bread to get very moist – and very messy. The sausage wasn't as spicy as I'd expected it to be, and the casing was hard to tear through. I ended up using a total of 12 napkins for my 6-inch sandwich (that's two per inch!) and spent more time licking my fingers than I did enjoying the sandwich. But that's Italian-style ... right? Good muffulettas are hard to come by outside of The Big Easy, and unfortunately that still holds true after trying Eovaldi’s version. The expected meats – ham, salami, coppa and mortadella – are all present, as is the Provolone. But the olive salad, the most important part in my book, is deficient in both quality and quantity. The bread, though the round loaf required, was much too thick and dry, making this sandwich a definite disappointment. Sizing is the other interesting thing here. Some sandwiches are available as a whole (9 inches), a half (4.5 inches), a 6-inch or a 12-inch. This makes it easy to match your exact level of hunger and price range. But it’s not necessarily the food that accounts for the whole Eovaldi's experience. This is an old-school neighborhood spot, complete with extremely friendly, prompt and accurate service. The four tables are usually inhabited by factory workers, construction dudes or neighborhood locals. The cozy place is also unusually quiet; no radio, no TV – just the hum of the deli cases and the sound of the handless meat slicer. It's charming, consistent, perfect if you're in a hurry and, of course, quite inexpensive. Filling Up for $20 or Less Dine-In-Ability: A sunny, small and quiet atmosphere makes dining in pleasant, but with only four small tables, takeout is the more likely option. Try It, You'll Like It: The Daddy, rich and sizable, is perfect for cold or warm weather. Feast or Famine: The meat-heavy menu makes Eovaldi’s a carnivore’s paradise. Where: Eovaldi's Deli & Catering, 2201 Edwards St., St. Louis, 314.771.5707 When: Mon. to Thu. – 8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.