Vietnamese With South-City Soul

Denoted by a small neon sign in the window, Truc Lam sits on the busy corner of Gravois and Spring avenues, but it’s got that hidden-in-a-New-York-alley sort of feel to it. The wood paneling, drop ceiling with stenciled fluorescent light covers and cafeteria-style padded chairs don’t make this the coziest international food joint in town, but consider Truc Lam as the go-to place for some Vietnamese soul food ... if there is such a thing. The menu is split up into navigable sections based on different proteins (including vegetarian), but it doesn’t make the selection any less daunting; there are still dozens of choices to make – with lemongrass or without, with rice or with noodles, in a soup or in a stir fry. The good news is that almost any diner will find something that suits his fancy.  Consider starting with the regular spring rolls (goi cuôn), found in the appetizer section. They’re exactly as they should be: stuffed with shrimp, pork, vermicelli noodles and mint; solidly wrapped with rice paper; and made with very fresh ingredients. The pork skin spring rolls (bì cuôn), on the other hand, have the components of a regular spring roll, but inside are also gritty bits of shredded pork skin. A bit of plum or peanut sauce helps, but no amount of sauce can make up for the lack of flavor and unpleasant texture. Vegetarians may want to try the egg rolls (cha gio chay) packed with noodles, mushrooms and carrots. These, however, can be hit or miss, sometimes spending too much time in the fryer, to the point where they come out dry and too crunchy. The Vietnamese pancake (bánh xèo) is a crispy, thin crêpe draped over a helping of loose bean sprouts, pork medallions and shrimp. It comes with fish sauce for dipping and a plate of lettuce leaves and mint for wrapping, but despite all the appetizing ingredients, there isn’t much going on with this one. The crêpe falls apart quite easily (it’s more manageable wrapped in lettuce) and, on its own, this dish doesn’t have much flavor, so that fish sauce is vital to its success. The signature Truc Lam sandwich (bánh mì), on the other hand, is a winner. Served on soft, toasted bread dressed with what tastes like a liver pâté, it’s topped with freshly seared beef, cilantro and shaved carrots. No heavy sauce, no mystery flavors: This sandwich is fresh and straightforward.   At most joints, wonton soup (hoành thánh) is never big enough for a meal. But at Truc Lam, it’s a large portion of about eight to 10 tasty bundles of tender, peppery pork in a salty broth. It also comes with a side of bean sprouts and cilantro to add to the soup once your wontons have disappeared. The duck noodle bowl (mì vit), with its green onions, savory shiitake mushrooms and sticky egg noodles, also delivers. It’s served with a lime and a small helping of fresh ginger purée that provides an excellent spicy yet smooth finish. The best part here is the large pieces of duck still on the bone that rest in the huge bowl. It’s a big helping, but isn’t filling. The spicy chicken with lemongrass (gà xào sa ót) dish isn’t what was expected, but is a good choice nonetheless. Served on the obligatory bed of cucumber, lettuce and tomato, the chicken is rolled in a diced mixture of lemongrass and chile pepper flakes. The citrusy-sweet and hot flavors contrast perfectly and produce a little kick at the end of each bite. The accompanying bowl of steaming rice is a must-have if you need something to cut the intensity. And if you’re craving something refreshingly sweet at the end (or the beginning) of the meal, try the smooth and creamy avocado shake. Sure, it’s an eerie bright green, but it’s not to be missed. The avocado flavor is obviously present, and the milk, sugar and ice that are blended in sweeten it to perfection. At Truc Lam, the service is discreet and the prices are hard to beat. So sit back, load up on the sriacha and enjoy the Vietnamese dance music playing over the loudspeaker. FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS Dine-In-Ability: There is plenty of seating, but it can be smoky. Try It, You’ll Like It: Spicy chicken with lemongrass and the avocado milkshake. Feast or Famine: More than 120 menu items range from beef to tofu and squid to chicken, so there’s something for everyone. Promise. Where: Truc Lam, 3737 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.776.1299 When: Daily except Wed. – 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.