The (Not So) Lost Art of Punch

When you think of mixing up an alcoholic punch for holiday guests this year, does it involve pouring a 2-liter bottle of soda and a bottle of vodka into a punch bowl, maybe throwing in a few cherries and calling it a day? Well, it’s time to bid farewell to that boring mix. An outgrowth of the return to classic cocktails, the art of punch is experiencing a revival in St. Louis, where local bars and restaurants are taking classic recipes to new heights while focusing on cold-weather spices and flavors. Just how far back does the concept of punch go? Pretty far, said Lucas Ramsey, bar manager at Eclipse. “‘Punch’ used as a word to describe a large communal beverage is thought to have two possible origins: The first is a Hindi-based word, panch, meaning ‘five,’ which refers to the number of ingredients: tea, sugar, water, lemon and arrack, an alcoholic beverage distilled primarily from sugar cane and the sap of palm trees,” he explained. “The second possible origin comes from the term ‘puncheon,’ a wooden cask that held 70 to 80 gallons, which is far less intriguing.” So what exactly comprises a “classic” punch recipe? Justin Cardwell, bar manager at BC’s Kitchen, explained: “When I make punches, I follow the classic guide: one part sour, two parts sweet, three parts strong, four parts weak, and the fifth part [is] spices in any quantity. The strong and weak parts are important to impart a smooth and not overly alcoholic punch, but it’s the sour and sweet that can be played with depending on not only your tastes, but your guests’ tastes as well.”  Getting back to the classics was exactly what inspired Cardwell to create the Amsterdam Punch, now on the menu at BC’s Kitchen. It’s his take on the Swedish Punch featured in Jerry Thomas’ Bartender’s Guide, first published in 1862. “I like to put my own twist on the classics. It’s a way to stay modern but bring back a bit of what was lost to people who might not have tasted or even heard of these drinks before.” Jim Kellogg, co-owner of Atomic Cowboy, admitted that when he thinks about punches, it’s usually the Hi-C and Everclear concoctions from his college days. Although that’s not what you’ll find on the cocktail menu at Atomic Cowboy, which is featuring its annual holiday punch recipe (now in its fifth year), the aptly named Atomic Cowboy Punch No. 5. Ingredients include Agavero tequila liqueur, Verdejo (a dry Spanish white wine), Velvet Falernum, ginger beer, fresh orange, apple juice and lemon-lime soda. Kellogg emphasized the importance of using a big block of ice in a punch bowl instead of regular ice cubes, which will melt and dilute the punch. Ramsey offered myriad creative punch-making suggestions for holiday entertaining at home: “Dark or spiced rums make a great base for a winter punch; use fresh, seasonally available fruits and juices; and look for liqueurs that complement the flavor profiles you’re going for,” he said. “Strong-brewed tea is a great additive as well. Also, making the punch several hours to several days prior to serving will allow the flavors to appropriately mellow or intensify. For a sweetening agent, sugar is fine, but simple syrup – which can easily be made – or agave nectar mixes more easily with liquids and liquors used in punches.” When it comes to creating warm-you-up-from-the-inside-out punch recipes, Cardwell is a self-professed bourbon-lover. “I’m a freak for bourbon with apples, cinnamon and the pumpkin pie spice,” he shared. But whichever spirits and spices you choose to experiment with this holiday season, according to Cardwell, “the most important thing is to be adventurous and try new things because if it sounds and tastes good to you, others will more than likely enjoy it, too.”