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Crack Open Nutty Holiday Flavor
By Pat Eby • Photo by Carmen Troesser
Posted On: 12/01/2009   


Early on a recent rainy Saturday, Don Mitchell and his grandson Mitchell Dennis heaved an iron behemoth, a pecan cracker, to the back of their stand at Soulard Market. They had left Neelyville, Mo., near the Arkansas border, at 2:30 a.m., their truck loaded with pecans, decorative gourds, red and yellow apples, giant potted chrysanthemums and pumpkins orange, mahogany, blue, green and crooknecked.

When the market opened, loose pecans were mounded in two large bins. Nearby, fat 3-pound sacks slouched next to 10-pound bags standing tall. A woman whose friend in Alabama failed to send Southern paper-shell pecans fretted that the Missouri pecans wouldn’t be as good. Mitchell wordlessly cracked two and handed them to her. She picked the meats, handed the first to her friend and tasted the second herself. “I’ll take 5 pounds,” she said.

Nuts are big players in holiday fare. Rum cakes rich with black walnuts, pecan wild rice, hickory nuts in a fruited dressing and pecan halves candied or spiced. Chesnuts, roasted and puréed into a soup. All taste better when made with Missouri chestnuts, pecans, black walnuts and hickory nuts.

That morning at the market, the black wheels of the pecan cracker clacked as nuts poured into the hopper, its noisy performance attracting a crowd. The corn sheller Mitchell modified in 1969 put just enough pressure on the shell to crack but not smash the nuts. “I was still in high school when we came up with the cracker,” he said. “It makes shelling pecans a lot easier.” Long as the first joint of a thumb and big around as a nickel, these pecans are so fresh the bite could be called juicy. Like their southern brethren, Missouri pecans taste sweet and clean. I bought 10 pounds.

The oldest pecan trees on the Mitchell farm date back over a hundred years. “Stuarts. That’s the old trees,” said Mitchell. “They’re good producers, but tend to produce every other year. So 30-some years ago, we planted Delicious as well because they bear every year. We don’t have what you would call an orchard, just the trees.” One mature pecan tree, however, can bear 40 to 100 pounds of nuts.

The Mitchells have a hickory nut tree too, but an ice storm late last winter prevented the nuts from setting. Chestnut production is also down this year, and the harvest of black walnuts was hampered by the wet weather we had in October.

Some buyers will be disappointed. “We have a lady [who] buys 40 pounds of hickory nuts every year to make Mrs. Letterman’s Hickory Nut Pie – that’s David Letterman’s mother’s recipe,” said Veryl Mitchell, who seems as voluble as her husband is taciturn. “I’m going to have to call her.”

On another leg of the market, American black walnuts at the Schroeder farm stand waited, hulled and ready to crack. They bear little resemblance, in taste or appearance, to well-mannered English walnuts. Ribbed, rough shells hide a nutmeat with a rough-and-tumble flavor: intensely earthy, sharp, almost bitter. Some find the taste disturbing, but converts seek it out.

Use black walnuts in simple dishes where this wild child can shine. Pump up the flavor of homemade French vanilla ice cream, enliven a buttery pound cake, add them to oatmeal cookies and brownies. Halve the amount when substituting for sweet, mild nuts like pecans, almonds or English walnuts. For savories and side dishes, try field greens with thin-sliced apples and orange segments topped with black walnuts and a sassy vinaigrette. Or sausage, wild rice and black walnut stuffing.

If you buy black walnuts in the shell, you’ll need to crack them – and it’s not easy. My grandfather used an anvil and a huge hammer to whack them, but the thwacks broke the meat into small pieces. My cousins and I then separated nuts from shells and liberated the clinging bits with a nutpick. Hard work, but one bite of fudge studded with black walnuts made the effort worthwhile. Vises work, too, but cranking down with enough pressure to open the shell takes the strength of Samson. Wear safety glasses; the shells fly. You can order a fine nutcracker designed especially for black walnuts from Hammons Product Co. in Stockton, Mo.

Pick up local pecans, black walnuts and chestnuts at winter farmers’ markets. Or visit Mound City Shelled Nut Co., where you can buy half- or 1-pound bags of premium black walnuts already shelled. No hammers, no anvils.


Pork Loin Stuffed with Black Walnuts and Dried Fruits
Makes 6

INGREDIENTS

2½ lbs. boneless pork loin
Salt and pepper to taste
¼ cup golden raisins
¾ cup coarsely chopped dried apricots
½ cup coarsely chopped dried cherries
1¼ cup white wine, divided
¼ cup coarsely chopped black walnuts
1 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
2 Tbsp. olive oil
4 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
¾ cup chicken stock
2 Tbsp. roasted garlic paste

PREPARATION

• Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
• Using a thin-bladed knife, cut an opening for the stuffing lengthwise through the center of the pork loin. Cut from each end of the roast, then slide a wooden spoon handle through the middle to make sure the hole goes all the way through the roast. Lightly salt and pepper the outside of the roast and store covered in the refrigerator until ready to stuff.
• Combine the raisins, apricots and cherries in a small bowl. Heat 1 cup of the wine in a medium sauce pan just to the boiling point. Remove from the heat, add the dried fruits, cover and let stand for 30 minutes.
• Toast the black walnuts in a skillet over medium-high heat, shaking the pan constantly, until the walnuts are lightly toasted and fragrant. Set aside.
• In a medium bowl, thoroughly combine the fruit mixture, the walnuts and the chopped parsley.
• Using the handle of a wooden spoon, stuff the prepared pork loin with the fruit mixture, working the stuffing in from each end towards the center.
• In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat, then add the olive oil. Increase the heat to medium-high, and sear the pork loin on all sides.
• Transfer the loin to a large baking pan. (If using a glass pan, reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees.) Roast, uncovered, for 35 to 45 minutes or until the center of the roast registers 160 degrees. Be sure to stick the thermometer in the meat rather than the stuffing. Remove to let stand for 10 minutes.
• Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over medium heat, add the flour and stir constantly until the roux is a light caramel color.
• In a small bowl, combine the chicken stock, ¼ cup white wine and garlic paste, then pour slowly into the roux, stirring constantly until the sauce is smooth. If the sauce is too thick, add more stock.
• Slice the roast into rounds, arrange on a platter and top with the sauce. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.

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