SAUCE MAGAZINE
Posted On: 12/03/2009
Hitting a moving target has eluded my talents ever since my basic training at Fort Leonard Wood, and trying to relate some sort of accurate paragraphs about the wine list at the cozy Stone Soup Cottage reminded me of those early Army days. When co-owner Nancy McConnell informed me that her wine list changes “almost every two weeks,” I had the perplexing task of writing about something that would be completely different by the time that readers would see this. But it’s a worthy challenge, as it’s only poor wine lists that don’t change. Most of the better offerings are creative and fluid; this is such a list.
The choices are anything but everyday – many aren’t even mainstream. I started giving bonus points with the very first wine on the list, the Wellington “Le Pique-Nique” Dry Rosé 2008 from Sonoma Valley. Dry pinks are very popular with wine geeks, and this, the third vintage from Wellington, is a very flavorful blend of Syrah and Zinfandel. At $25, it was a great choice for Stone Soup’s Sunday brunch.
The lists I encountered offered about 20 wines, with slightly more reds than whites. Among the selections was a Chardonnay from Bin 36, a brand that seems to be getting a great deal of attention in local restaurants – no surprise, since these wines are blended by Brian Duncan, wine director at Chicago’s creative Bin 36 restaurant. Savvy wine buyers are finding this label to be both food- and wallet-friendly friendly.
There was only a single half bottle on the list, but it was a superb Chardonnay from Trefethen in Napa Valley and was perfect for two to share with an appetizer. Also noteworthy was the Hahn SLH Pinot Gris 2007 from the Santa Lucia Highlands. Pinot Gris (or Grigio) is generally predictably pleasant, but this one has some stuffing to it and really demonstrated the pairing potential of the light and crisp dry white.
The list’s reds offered two choices on the higher end of its price spectrum: Ponzi Pinot Noir from Oregon and the Bell Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. At $65 and $62, respectively, both were outstanding examples of the high-quality but affordable wines from these two great wine-growing regions.
A four-flight wine pairing may be added to the restaurant’s tasting menus for only $35; given the four glasses selected to complement the courses, it’s a value not to be missed. Recent pairings were very creative, including Zaca Mesa Viognier with a roasted corn bisque and a potato and leek soup served with the flavorful Huber Grüner Veltliner 2007 from Austria. “GrüVe” is an increasingly popular dry white that has enormous affinity for making a wide range of dishes taste better.
Even without a consistently available wine list to discuss, it is apparent that the McConnells’ creativity and dedication to quality will make anyone visiting them in Cottleville very happy that they made the trip.
To read Michael Renner's review of Stone Soup Cottage's cuisine, visit Gourmet Guru in the reviews section.
