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Jan 17, 2018
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Short List: Buffalo wings
By Byron Kerman | Photos by Carmen Troesser
Posted On: 02/01/2010   

Buffalo wings Ė thereís nothing subtle about this aromatic, messy, popular nosh. Chicken wings and drumettes are fried and dipped in the sauce that Buffalo, N.Y., made famous: a mix of rich butter, hot sauce to let you know youíre alive and sometimes vinegar. Blue cheese? Ranch? Au naturel? You choose the finishing condiment Ė or choose not to use one. It all sounds academic, but these three local spots have embraced the humble Buffalo wing in notable ways and added their own tasty touches.

Geoís Wings & More
4307 W. Main St., Belleville, 618.233.9464

Geoís Trash Wings (aka dirty wings) are fried, dipped in Buffalo sauce, then refried and redipped. The resulting wing is such a veritable explosion of Buffalo flavor that it can be hard to go back to generic hot wings. The chicken is cooked to a succulent doneness, and a full roll of paper towels at each table really helps with the mess. (For those seeking to experiment beyond the standard sauce, by the way, Geoís is also known for offering a staggering selection of others on the menu Ė dozens, in fact.)

Growlers Pub
763 Old Ballas Road, Creve Coeur, 314.432.3110
3811 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Sunset Hills, 314.984.9009

The Growlers hot wing looks, smells and tastes a little different from the usual. First, itís a true chicken wing, with drumette, wing and wingtip all still connected. The peppery aroma hits you, and thatís your next clue that these are no ordinary Super Bowl party wings Ė at Growlers, itís not about the heat. These wings arenít drowning in sauce, but they are glowing with smoky, spicy flavor. The mix of spices in the sauce includes celery salt for a ďclean finish,Ē as one of the pubís managers put it. And the chicken is cooked to pull-apart perfection, a snack easily capable of outscoring any meal it might precede.

Patís Bar & Grill
6400 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.647.6553

Patís takes the traditional Buffalo wing to another level by frying, dipping and finally charbroiling the chicken. This serves to knock down the spicy heat and kick up the smoky flavor. The skin chars, the sauce begins to caramelize, and a secondary flavor is sealed in with the Buffalo goodness. The charbroiling does something else, too: It removes some of the wetness, so eating this chicken isnít nearly as messy as the typical Buffalo-wing experience. Itís a workable ďfirst-date hot wing,Ē if you will.

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DATE: 02/02/2010 12:27PM    POSTED BY: natacocha
No discussion of wings is complete is STL without mentioning McLain's Corner. go for the grilled ones. best in town.

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