An Artful Approach to Meat-Free Fare

Anyone who thinks that vegetarian cuisine is just bland tofu and boring sprouts has clearly not been to Sweet Art, because the Shaw neighborhood café lets its customers know that there’s a lot more to meatless fare than just soy and mung beans. All items at the café and bakery are vegetarian or vegan, including desserts. Most of the lunch items are named after the surrounding neighborhood streets, which makes the already homey interior feel even homier. Let’s start with The 39th, essentially a BLT on toasted wheat that features fresh greens, a generous portion of the flavorful (and secret) house spread, thin-sliced tomato, avocado and, of course, fake bacon (what I like to call “fakon”). There’s no grease or succulent fatty bits with these crispy, almost plastic-like, soy-based strips, but they get the job done for those who like a little sodium with their L and their T.  The Klemm is a grilled cheese sandwich stuffed with sharp Cheddar, broccoli bits and garlic. It’s a great idea, putting a roasted vegetable on a grilled cheese, but it comes out rather flavorless; perhaps another layer of something salty or some sauce on the side would do it some good. Flora, which happens to be my favorite street in the ’hood, is also my favorite bite here. Fresh organic greens, slices of carrot, tomato, ripe avocado and mild sprouts are wrapped in a whole-grain tortilla that’s been slathered with house-made herb hummus. The greens, sprouts and carrot lend just the right amount of crunch, contrasted nicely by the smoothness of the hummus and avocado. The Sweet Burger, a house-made patty of lentils and vegetables served warm on a bun, has a definite sweetness and spice. The flavor is interesting and not what one usually finds in a veggie burger. As with tofu or fake bacon, if you’re unfamiliar with meat substitutes, the texture can be a bit disconcerting.  The Grand is certainly just that. And it’s another example of a meat replacement meal. Also called the Tofuffalo (you’ll understand in a minute), this large helping of grilled, thick-cut tofu strips doused in spicy barbecue sauce is served between a perfectly toasted bun and a big side of vegan ranch dressing, which doesn’t taste as “cool” as traditional ranch. Again, it’s a confusing texture if you aren’t a tofu-lover, but it makes a good meal if you are – and a great meal if you like barbecue sauce. Unless you’re a vegan, do not, under any circumstances, miss the quiche, a buttery, savory entrée with a melt-in-your-mouth crumbly crust and rich egg filling. Additions – cheeses, roasted garlic, bell pepper, tomatoes, spinach, etc. – change daily, but ingredients are always high quality. It goes fast, so get there early for a slice. Not surprisingly, the menu features several solid salads, including The Botanical: fresh greens, avocado, shredded carrot, green onion, chopped purple cabbage, cilantro and toasted sesame seeds served with a house-made carrot-ginger dressing. Its flavors and textures are well balanced, making it quite sophisticated for this little lunch spot.  Sweet Art is also a bakery, and no one would fault you for starting (or even replacing) your lunch with the signature baked treats. The standouts are definitely the cupcakes, especially the red velvet cupcake: moist, fluffy red cake topped with an unbelievable light and smooth cream cheese frosting. Also on the spectacular side is the Life Is Good cookie with peanut butter, huge chocolate chunks and oatmeal. It’s slightly crispy on the outside but very dense and soft on the inside. Vegans aren’t left out here, either, with plenty of treats to choose from, including cupcakes. The vegan brownie is very rich and flavorful, yet it tastes a bit off. If you aren’t a vegan, I don’t recommend it; it isn’t what us dairy-eaters are used to.  The one thing missing here, however, is cohesive service. Now, we’re not talking about the friendliness of the employees or the promptness of the food (because both are above average), but rather the attention paid to what’s been written on the ticket by the cashier. Some missing tofu here, a misplaced order there, a small instead of a large, etc. Yet I found these mistakes forgivable considering the quality of the ingredients, the friendly feel of the place and owner Reine Bayoc’s passionate mission to offer everything “handmade and homemade.” FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS Dine-In-Ability: A friendly neighborhood vibe and mismatched chairs and tables with original artwork hanging on the walls will make you want to dine in. Try It, You’ll Like It: The Flora wrap, a piece of quiche and a Life Is Good cookie. Feast or Famine: This is heaven for vegans and vegetarians, but omnivores will like the food, too. Where: Sweet Art, 2203 S. 39th St., St. Louis, 314.771.4278 When: Tue. to Fri. – 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sat. – 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.