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Rendez-vous at Rue Lafayette

By S.C. Truckey | Photos by Jonathan S. Pollack
Posted On: 08/01/2010       

On a recent visit to Rue Lafayette, one of my fellow diners thought she overheard someone say the croissants were from France. After 10 minutes of trying to wrap our heads around that possibility, we came to the conclusion that we had heard incorrectly, and that they had to be made in-house.
It turns out the France rumor was true.

The “famous authentic, buttery, crispy Parisian croissants” are flown in from Paris frozen and then baked at the café. The dough is dense, but there’s a slight crisp on top with a sweet glaze that goes well with the mouthwatering, buttery flavor.

In addition to these delectable pastries, Rue also offers larger plates for breakfast, brunch and lunch. The choices are slim, and the execution is hit or miss.

At least two sandwiches are offered each day, one rotating selection and a chicken salad sandwich. Served on your choice of ciabatta roll (made at Fazio’s Bakery across the highway) or croissant, the peppery, not-too-mayonnaisey chunks of chicken are mixed with large-diced white onion to make a sandwich whose taste is light and savory. While the ciabatta is a good choice, the experience is heightened when served on one of those noteworthy croissants. The dish comes with a seasonal vegetable side salad – on my visits, a mix of fresh cucumber slices and diced juicy tomato tossed in a pepper-lime dressing (also available as an entrée) – or house-made potato salad. The latter is spectacular, as its huge, hunks of potato – roasted with herbes de Provence – are soft and slightly mashed, then mixed with small bits of green onion, red onion and lemon zest.

The quiche here, either quiche Lorraine or the daily vegetarian option, is also good. The single-serving pie is, like many items here, peppery and perfectly salty, with the thin, buttery, slightly sweet crust providing a key balance.

During the colder months, the tiny café offers soups, and on the weekend, when you’ll find Rue can get a bit crowded, there are made-to-order omelets and frittatas, both with several ingredient options. We tried the cheese, tomato and basil omelet (the restaurant having run out of frittata makings), which was quite bland. The tomatoes tasted canned, the basil had thick stalks, and the cheese was almost nowhere to be found.

Better to stick with the items in the bakery case, like the chocolate croissants. These rectangular pastries boast that great subtle crisp on the outside, soft dough on the inside and rich, gooey chocolate in the middle. The impressive bread pudding, made from chopped chocolate croissants, is served warm and topped with caramel and chocolate syrup along with a dollop of whipped cream, whose sweetness is subtle enough to allow the chocolaty bread to really pop. The coffee and espresso drinks are also quite good, but the modern mugs without handles they’re served in are quite difficult to maneuver.

While the rotating menu and small list of options does have a certain charm, Rue Lafayette’s inconsistency of preparation can create enough disappointment that customers may turn away. Service is spotty: The staff tends to get a little frazzled when the line is long, they run out of ice or frittata makings, you get your bread pudding “for here” instead of the requested “to-go.”

Located across from picturesque Lafayette Park, this cozy café also doubles as an eclectic antique shop. French crooners dominate the speakers and the tiny tables all in a row allow you to not only overhear your neighbor’s conversation but participate in it as well. It’s a nice rendez-vous spot for a treat and a coffee, but nothing too special for the main course.

FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS
Dine-In-Ability: A tiny dining area can make inside seats tough to score, but al fresco dining is exquisite and scenic.
Feast or Famine: Best for sweet-toothed snackers, with a couple noteworthy lunch items.
Try it, You’ll Like it: Croissant (plain or chocolate) and the quiche Lorraine
Where: Rue Lafayette, 2026 Lafayette Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.2233
When: Tue. to Fri. – 6:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sat – 8 a.m. to
5 p.m., Sun – 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.


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