Portabella’s Affordable Indulgence

The kitchen at Portabella has a way with fried foods. Almost every dish I tried had some crispy, golden exterior giving way to oozing mozzarella or sweetly golden onions or steamy potatoes. Adding fried anything to a dish is a way to up the “I shouldn’t” indulgence without necessarily going luxurious (i.e. expensive) like adding a shaving of truffles might. But this is certainly no fry joint. Bustling in downtown Clayton since 1994, Portabella is a popular restaurant where the wine list is top-notch, service affable and the décor elegant and charming. And the food is pretty great, too. Now, back to those fried foods … On the appetizers side of the menu, the self-proclaimed “kick-ass fries” lived up to their name. They were served in a conical basket lined with paper, piping hot and super crunchy, embellished with a sprinkling of Asiago cheese and garlic. I suspect they may have been dredged in some sort of flour to create that extra-crunchy shell jacketing a fluffy interior. The crispy mozzarella wasn’t really all that crispy, but was glistening and melty in a bed of marinara, pesto and crostini. The buttery, salty cheese would have stretched from the plate to the moon if my mouth hadn’t stood in the way. A crispy, breaded eggplant tower sandwiched meaty portabella mushroom, more cheese, spinach and tomato. It was perfectly seasoned, bold and tangy. The frying didn’t stop at appetizers. Sautéed calves liver with pancetta and caramelized onions, swimming in a balsamic reduction, was served with a heap of delicately crisped shoestring potatoes. The liver was nice and pink at the center with an almost creamy texture and mild flavor, but the reduction was overpowering. When this was pointed out to the server, he quickly put out the fire by offering a little veal demi-glace to temper the too-tart sauce. It worked, and I was impressed with the server’s on-the-ball mentality. Missouri trout had a wonderfully seared skin, blistered at the edges and salty, with a succulent and tender flesh. It was served on a “hash” of crab meat and asparagus and – drum roll – a fried tomato, thickly breaded in semolina, which ensured that the tomato’s juices would only be released upon the diner’s command. The dish was a successful merger of textures, with the trout’s crispy skin enhanced by the grainy crunch of semolina, the al dente asparagus contrasting with the silky crab. The tomato’s acidity was just enough to cut through a dish that, despite its “lighter” components, was actually a little heavy. And, in Portabella’s version of steak frites, a tangle of thin-cut, crispy onions accompanied a nicely seared ranch steak and mashed potatoes. There are plenty of nonfried options, too. The spinach salad with strawberries, goat cheese, almonds, red onion and balsamic was fresh and delightful. A fig and Gorgonzola pizza, with arugula and prosciutto, is wonderfully balanced, the sweet fruit, salty cheese and meat, and peppery greens harmonious. The thin-ish crust with charred bubbles supported the weight of the toppings, but still had that chewy texture in the middle. In the pastas section, a summery risotto of crab, corn and herbs was also balanced with its delicate flavors. A handful of cheese added requisite richness. For dessert, a velvety and dense peach sorbet was delicious, sweet leading into tart. The apple crumble was warm and smelled wonderful, but was too shy with the crumbly topping, which adds wonderful crispy texture and nutty, buttery flavors. It was more a dish of baked apples and a scoop of vanilla ice cream, with the crumble topping an afterthought or garnish. Service was spotty: On one night, it was everything a diner could hope for – informed, friendly, perceptive. On another, it was unprofessional and distracted. The restaurant has two substantial dining rooms with a partially open kitchen on one back wall, yet the room feels cozy and offers great people watching out huge windows overlooking Central Avenue. The Zoogs have managed to create a restaurant that caters to a wide-ranging clientele. With the menu’s variety – both in dishes and in price range – you could easily drop a bundle on a special-occasion dinner here and just as easily walk out happy for under $25. There’s something for everyone. And plenty of crispy golden items to entice repeat visits. BACK FOR SECONDS Don’t-Miss Dish: Spinach salad with strawberries, fig and Gorgonzola pizza, Missouri trout. Vibe: A little upscale, but not too fancy. A mix of young and old, large parties and small. Entree prices: $15.95 to $27.95 Where: Portabella, 15 N. Central Ave., Clayton, 314.725.6588 When: Lunch: Mon. to Fri. – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner: Mon. to Thu. – 5:30 to 10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 5:30 to 11 p.m., Sun. – 5 to 9 p.m.