Review: The Absinthe Bar at Lola in St. Louis

Whether you enjoy absinthe or not, you have to love the ritual. It goes like this: The bartender pours three-quarters of a shot of pure absinthe into a glass, lays a slotted spoon and a sugar cube atop the glass, then douses the cube with the remaining shot and sets it on fire. The sugar burns, bubbles, and just before it caramelizes, said bartender drops said cube into the glass, stirring it with a shot of water to create a louche, which turns the light green liquid to a murky white. It’s a tricky and possibly hazardous little maneuver, but, after doing this countless times on a crowded Friday night in the heart of the Washington Avenue strip, the barkeeps at Lola have it down to a science. Sadly, no, the shot itself won’t induce hallucinations, but it’s worth it to order one just to see it being made.

The Absinthe Bar at Lola, open since late August, is a small expansion project for the eclectic, late-night spot, which, though relatively new, has already established itself as a mainstay of downtown nightlife. The lounge not only provides a generous overflow space from the main bar/restaurant, it also adds a decidedly different late-night option.

Anyone familiar with Lola knows that music is a part of the scene. The venue plays host most nights to a range of live jazz, funk, electro and soul bands. Absinthe Bar adds to that mix, although it’s definitely its own little animal. On weekend nights, the darker, sleeker, edgier absinthe side differentiates itself from the more subdued main bar with hip hop DJs and a crowd teeming with high heels, low necklines, tight T-shirts and bad pickup lines. Though it might sound like the place has a bit of an identity crisis, the fusion actually works really well. It also makes it really loud; those who need to escape the madness for a few drinks can grab a sidewalk table along Washington Avenue.

Fittingly, the green fairy figures prominently here. Eight varieties of imported absinthe are available, as are several house-infused absinthe flavors (cherry-vanilla, fennel, citrus-vanilla) and strong absinthe-based cocktails, named for artists and writers who reputedly indulged in the stuff. The most popular is the Hemingway, a mixture of the infused citrus absinthe, violet liqueur and Champagne.

Fortunately, Lola’s quirky signature drink menu is available in the front and back. If you aren’t interested in the aforementioned shot of absinthe, you can peruse an impressive list of cocktails, some of which take their name from nearby buildings. It’s hard to be both classic and innovative simultaneously, but the folks at Lola have pulled it off. Bartenders are more than generous on bourbon-based selections such as the Ely Walker or the Printer’s, the latter of which fuses Maker’s Mark with ginger beer and a dash of bitters. The Castro is a Margarita masterpiece, served in a chilled, salt-rimmed glass along with the metal mixing cup for self-service refills. Management has also been generous to the designated drivers, throwing a number of nonalcoholic mocktails into the mix, a welcome and growing trend in STL.

Lola’s Absinthe Bar is still defining itself, but judging from the crowds, this saloon is here to stay.

STL AFTER DARK
Check it: The Gateway City’s only lounge dedicated to the green fairy. 
Hipster or Hoosier: On weekdays, expect low-key jazz enthusiasts and cocktail swillers. Weekends, make room for club hoppers sporting tight shirts and high skirts.
Suds or ’Tinis: A smooth hit of warm, house-infused absinthe followed by an innovative cocktail from the impressive menu. 
Where: The Absinthe Bar at Lola, 500 N. 14th St., St. Louis, 314.621.7277
When: Mon. – 4 p.m. to 3 a.m., Tue. to Fri. – 11 a.m. to 3 a.m., Sat. and Sun. – 9:30 a.m. to 3 a.m.