A Cordial Encounter

Green Chartreuse, Benedictine, Blue Curaçao. You’ve heard the names, but what exactly are they? Liqueurs. Also known as a cordial, a liqueur is generally made by mixing or redistilling neutral spirits with fruits, flowers, herbs, seeds, roots, oils or juices, plus a sweetener. For example, apricot pits are essential to nutty, almond-flavored Amaretto and anise is what lends Pernod its wonderful licorice essence. Since most liqueurs boast a concentrated, dessert-like flavor, they are perfect as a digestif, served neat, chilled or over ice. However, their color, sweetness, flavoring, alcohol content and sometimes rather viscous texture make liqueurs indispensable to cocktails, many of which are just right for warding off the winter chill. Dumante Verdenoce is a luxurious pistachio liqueur that arrived in these parts in early 2010. Dumante COO Luca Bianconcini explained that while an extract is oftentimes used to make liqueurs, Dumante is “a true infusion of pistachios made from the finest pistachios and five different types of vanilla, including Madagascar vanilla.” Another unique aspect, noted Bianconcini, is that the alcohol is derived from Italian molasses instead of a neutral grain spirit such as vodka, thus lending a full flavor and round finish. “And there is half the amount of sugars that most cordials contain. It is naturally flavored, so we don’t have to add a bunch of sugar,” he said. Dumante is undoubtedly attracted to a Manhattan. At Brennan’s in the Central West End, the staff mixes up a Sicilian Manhattan, made with Dumante, Buffalo Trace Kentucky bourbon, a dash of blood orange bitters and a twist of orange. Last fall, wine shop-art gallery The Vino Gallery, also in the CWE, featured the Dumante Manhattan, pairing Dumante with the Spirits of St. Louis malt whiskey produced by local Square One Distillery, plus a supporting cast of blood orange bitters and a splash of maraschino syrup. Binaconcini called Dumante Verdenoce perfect for coffee drinks, and Ruth’s Chris Steak House mixologist PJ Doyle agreed. Not only does Doyle use it in the spiked coffee beverages that he prepares at the restaurant’s downtown location, but he finishes the drinks with a generous spray of his homemade whipped cream, a rich combination of Dumante, Godiva White Chocolate Liqueur and the standard heavy cream and sugar. Need another suggestion? Brillet, French maker of small-batch cognacs, offers a dandy pear cognac. Its Belle de Brillet pear cognac is made from a blend of Cognac Brillet and ripe Williams pears. Though the holidays have passed, Brennan’s uses the liqueur in its Grown on the Tree cocktail, an epicurean concoction of pear cognac topped with pear juice and garnished with an aromatic rosemary sprig inspired by the partridge in a pear tree from the Christmas carol.