Pueblo Solis Packs in Flavor, People

An experience at Pueblo Solis can vary greatly depending on when you go, what you order and your general disposition. If you translate long waits and spotty service as more time to relax, chat and loosen up with a cool Margarita, then you’ll do OK here. It is a fun place to be, after all, festive and bustling on a Saturday night. But if you’re a stickler for good, efficient service, go on a Thursday. It’s quiet but not completely dead, which means you’ll skip the hour-long waits and get a little more face time with your server. There are also swings in the quality and preparation of the food. A steamy cup of frijoles charros, or pinto bean soup, was warming and truly delicious. Coins of smoky sausage mingled with the tender beans in a pleasantly viscous, earthy broth reminiscent of white bean and ham soup. But the entrée of shrimp Diablo that followed was a disappointment. There comes a time in a shrimp’s edibility span where it’s still good enough to eat but starting to emit a shrimpy odor that says, “Time’s running out.” These shrimp had a very strong odor, so strong, in fact, that the car smelled of shrimp a full 24 hours after transporting the leftovers home. And, while I realize that shrimp Diablo is supposed to bring the heat, these shrimp were so devilishly hot that I could only eat one. When your nose is running and your eyes are watering and you can’t feel your lips, you likewise can’t see, smell or taste the food. I was grasping, blindly, for my Margarita, writhing in pain. It’s best to stray from the pricy entrées and stick with appetizers and the Mexican specialties, such as the sopes, tacos and enchiladas, which are wonderfully seasoned and supremely satisfying. Sopes, little cornmeal pizzas topped with Chihuahua cheese, salsa and guacamole, are a tasty little snack whose sweet corn tames the salt and spice of the toppings. At first bite, the guacamole is nice and oniony, but there was an awful lot of tomato in that dish. I love tomatoes in guacamole, but this was ridiculous; it seemed as if they were using tomato as filler. The tortilla chips are good, though, nice and hot, salty and crisp, with three types of salsa – one a mix of green tomatillos and jalapeños, one with fresh Roma tomatoes and serrano peppers, and one a deep smoky red, containing Roma tomatoes and poblano peppers. If you like melted cheese, get a Mexican enchilada, one of three varieties on the menu. Two tortillas are filled with Chihuahua cheese and smothered in a piquant red sauce featuring ancho and guajillo (dried red peppers) and more cheese, then warmed until gooey. If mole is your thing, Pueblo Solis has an excellent version. With its chocolaty hue and velvety texture, this sauce is so subtle and balanced that its flavors whisper to you, sweet, smoky, earthy. The ground beef filling in the gorditas rellenas is a little louder. The punch of green bell peppers and onions perfume the meat that’s tucked into a thin, round gordita pocket, slick with grease. The plate of three tamales – bean, pork, and cheese and jalapeño – comes fast to the table. They’re good, if a little dry. The pork tamales are the best of the three; the bean and cheese varieties lack that moisture and succulent appeal. It’s nothing a drizzle of salsa can’t fix. Don’t leave without trying the flan. Served with fresh strawberries, blueberries and mango, this house-made dessert portion is luscious and smooth, sweet and eggy. Salmon-colored walls and a couple strands of chili-pepper lights cast a rosy glow over the dimly lit bar and dining rooms. Some cacti, a piñata and sundry Mexican novelties round out the décor. While service is generally slow, the staff is friendly. And although the rice is always overcooked and mushy, the food is generally good and the atmosphere welcoming. Owner Al Solis and his family have a good thing going. The throngs of diners are proof of this. But competition is fierce, especially given the economy, and Pueblo Solis seems to be sliding in areas of food preparation. If this St. Louis Hills neighborhood gem wants to keep drawing the crowds, it needs to step up the standards. BACK FOR SECONDS Where: Pueblo Solis, 5127 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.351.9000 When: Mon. to Thu. – 5 to 9:30 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 5 to 10:30 p.m., Sun. – 5 to 9 p.m. Don’t miss dishes: Pinto bean soup, sopes, mole poblano, flan. Vibe: A fun and festive atmosphere in cozy quarters. Entrée prices: $6.95 to $22.99