Review: The Wicked Lady Pub in Bevo Mill

Editor’s note: The Wicked Lady Pub has closed. 

We’re not sure if The Wicked Lady is a quarry owner or a mason, but she is a sinfully good cook. The new pub, which opened last fall in the Bevo Mill neighborhood, sports a strange décor of brick, tile, stone and Formica booths, ironically separated by armrests of hardwood flooring. The octagonal bar has a deal every day, from Tuesday’s Punk Beer Rodeo (deals on PBR) to Sunday’s Hangover Afternoon (special prices on burgers and shots), although – oddly – nothing is on tap. But no matter; the food is the mortar that holds this Wicked Lady together.

She features your typical pub grub, with a few additional ­– and unusual – treats. House-made sausages – long, skinny links similar to a breakfast sausage – were savory, sweet and just salty enough to make us crave a fried egg over easy or a beer. The Scotch egg, a hardboiled egg that’s wrapped in sausage and deep-fried, is rich and savory, but could use some mustard for dipping. Bridies, a Scottish puff pastry stuffed with ground beef and onions, featured light and flaky pastry and seasoned beef that was mild and satiating.

Of the other items listed under the pub grub section of the menu, skip the wings and chicken strips. Both were too heavily breaded, and the Wicked sauce, described as the spiciest, had more of a sweet, smoky barbecue flavor than the kickin’ heat we look for with wings. Do, however, go for the fish and chips. The hand-battered pieces of fresh cod were fried to flaky, golden perfection; a few dashes of malt vinegar were all they needed. The chips, available waffle cut or regular, were still good cold the next day.

The rest of the menu is dedicated to casual fare: soups, salads, sandwiches, pizza. The Peasant Salad, which included cucumbers, tomatoes, bell pepper, onions, feta, and a light vinegar and oil dressing, is a standout, as are the strombolis and pizzas, both featuring a masterfully hand-tossed dough that was crispy and yet had a good strong chew.

But the stars here are the burger and The Steaker. The burger – prepared as ordered, which rarely happens – had a nice char on the outside, and the patty had the light texture of house-ground beef. Be sure to upgrade to the cheeseburger – your choice of American, Swiss, Cheddar, pepper Jack or blue cheese is stuffed into the burger, resulting in melty cheese making it into every bite. Bacon can also be added but we’d advise skipping it; the Lady’s bacon was a little too thick yet lacking in fat and had a tough, cardboard-like texture. The menu claims that The Steaker, the pub’s version of a Philly cheese steak, comes with Cheez Whiz, but, sadly, the yellow stuff is no longer offered. Go for blue cheese as a replacement; it made for a great pairing with the tender steak.

A word of warning: The Wicked Lady somehow gets around the new smoking ban, and, as it’s one big room, there’s no avoiding the smoke. And when it’s busy, service can be wicked slow. But if you need a place to entertain 30 or so of your naughtiest friends, check out The Wicked Lady Pub. There’s plenty of room, and charmed food and drink for all.

FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS

WHERE: The Wicked Lady Pub, 4534 Gravois, St. Louis, 314.448.1978
WHEN: Tue. to Fri. – 11 a.m. to 1:30 a.m., Sat. and Sun. – noon to 1:30 a.m.
DINE-IN-ABILITY: With a huge bar, giant booths and a game room, you’ll want to hang out. However, smoking is allowed, and that might make carryout more attractive.
FEAST OR FAMINE: The Wicked Lady’s bar food with an attitude should please all palates.
TRY IT, YOU’LL LIKE IT: House-made sausages, The Steaker, burger with cheese.