Vegetarian Shrimp Bisque

A few months ago, I attended a Very Important Business Dinner. So important, in fact, that 1) we dined at Tony’s and 2) I didn’t drink, lest I entertain the table with obscure Dr. Who references. Which is my wimpy way of explaining why, when my Very Important Companion suggested I try the shrimp bisque, I thought declining for vegetarian reasons would be far too awkward. Yes, yes, I’m a traitor to the cause. But when the choice is charming the big man or saving the crustacean, the not-cuddly sea thing is going down every time. Tony’s shrimp bisque was the illicit lover my repressed palate had only fantasized about. It was so rich, so decadent, so delicious that it enveloped me in its tuxedoed arms and whispered naughty things in my ear. Clearly, it should be classified as a gateway food, because the next morning I wanted to mainline a pound of bacon. Instead, I decided to make amends by making the bisque with only veggies. First, I called Tony’s. To my complete and total surprise, chef Vincent P. Bommarito called me back. He shared his bewitching ingredient list: shrimp, shrimp shells, brandy, heavy cream and mirror balls. I wanted to clarify that last one, but he had caught me in a waiting room, and the lady next to me was a bit annoyed that I was taking notes in her Sudoku book. Instead, I asked my dear cousin Brad, who happens to be a classically trained chef. Mirror balls are actually just a plain ol’ mirepoix: onions, celery and carrots in a 2-to-1-to-1 ratio (by weight), the base for cooking stocks and many French dishes. Brad also filled me in on a technicality that wasn’t easily solved with a food scale. Apparently, a bisque isn’t actually a bisque unless it’s made with the boiled shells of the shrimp (or lobster or crab). I had thought the hard part would be finding a substitute for the shrimp. But really, the stumper was figuring out why these shells – fishy smelling, throw-away scraps, in my mind – are so special that they are the defining ingredient. The answer is the brine. Boiled shells add a salty sharp taste that transports you to the sea, even here in Missouri. Lots of experimentation was ahead of me. First, I made the mirepoix, and, instead of shrimp, added a sweet potato. (It’s buttery, the right color, and thickens as it cooks.) Then I tossed in some capers. They sure were briny but didn’t play well with the other flavors. Pickle juice had the same eyebrow-raising result. I had better luck with a splash of sherry vinegar. It gave the soup a tang, without making me, well, gag. And in a flash of inspiration (Brad’s, not mine), I added sea salt to the mix. Normally, sea salt is used to finish a dish. But adding it ahead of time was like adding a pinch of the sea. The resulting soup is really good. It’s rich, flavorful and kind to not-so-cuddly sea things. But to be completely honest – Tony’s bisque is better. Even the most virtuous vegetarian could fall under its spell. And if that happens to you, I’ll totally understand. VEGETARIAN Shrimp Bisque 4 SERVINGS 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 large sweet potato, peeled and cubed 1 medium yellow onion, chopped ½ cup celery stalks, chopped (approximately 2 to 4 stalks) ½ cup carrots, peeled and chopped (approximately 2 carrots) 1 bay leaf 3 sprigs fresh thyme 2 Tbsp. tomato paste ¼ cup brandy 1 quart unsalted vegetable stock 1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper Sea salt to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste ½ cup 40-percent heavy whipping cream • Melt the butter in a large soup pot. • Add the sweet potato, onion, celery, carrots, bay leaf and thyme. Cover the pot and cook the vegetables on low heat until the onion, celery and carrots are tender, approximately 15 minutes. (Potato will still be firm.) • Add the tomato paste, and stir for 1 minute. • Increase heat to medium-high, and add the brandy, scraping up any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. • Add the vegetable stock, sherry vinegar, cayenne, and pinches of sea salt and black pepper to taste. • Bring the soup back to a low boil, and cook, uncovered, for 20 minutes. • Remove the bay leaf and thyme sprigs. Using an immersion blender, purée until smooth. (If using a traditional blender, allow the soup to cool first and work in batches.) • Stir in the cream. Gently rewarm the soup without allowing it to come to a boil to avoid scorching. • Season to taste with additional sea salt, black pepper or cayenne. Garnish with herbs of your choice.