“Bacon”-Wrapped Figs

We all knew we’d be here someday. Like Fred and Ginger in a 1930s film, we’ve danced around it, bringing you vegetarian versions of crab cakes, biscuits and gravy, even beef stew. But now it’s time to shine the spotlight on what could be our culture’s favorite cut. It’s found its way into everything from blue-plate specials to fine-dining desserts. It’s the salty to our sweet, the topper for your Whopper, a fried egg’s best friend. That’s right, folks: This month, we’re bringing home the bacon. Now, I’m not so naive to think that something like this can be replicated; it’s the great white whale of meat. With its perfectly marbled combination of protein and fat and the ability to be soft and crispy at the same time, well, it’s almost mystical. So what could possibly pass as a suitable substitute? Why coconut, of course. As much as I’d love to take the credit for transforming this tropical fruit into something so savory, I have to acknowledge chef Jesse Kimball of the Memphis Tap Room in Philadelphia, whose appearance on Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives opened my eyes to just how fruitful coconut could be. Kimball’s method involves peeling the coconut into strips, letting them sit in a bowl with brown sugar (thus drawing out the moisture), then smoking the strips for a good long while. Peeler? Check. Brown sugar? No problem. Smoker? Not so much. So I decided to put together a marinade that would include liquid smoke, a glorious substitute for those of us wanting that outdoor taste while cooking in the comfort of air conditioning. The first time I popped open a bottle, it was like a campfire came roaring into the kitchen. Once all was said and done, it really helped the coconut achieve that smoky flavor so prominent in real bacon. But what’s bacon without something to wrap itself around? We are, after all, in prime fig season. And with a dollop of goat cheese, some time in the broiler and a drizzle of agave nectar right before serving, it’s like that great white whale swam right into the harpoon. Coconut “Bacon”-Wrapped Figs 12 servings 1 fresh coconut ¹∕³ cup brown sugar Salt to taste 4 Tbsp. maple syrup 3 Tbsp. sesame oil 3 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. liquid smoke* 2 tsp. paprika Freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 Tbsp. vegetarian Worcestershire Dash garlic powder Dash cinnamon 6 fresh figs 4 oz. goat cheese Agave nectar 1 DAY AHEAD • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. • Extract the coconut water: Find the circular indents on the end of the coconut and, using a hammer and an instrument to pierce, such as a screwdriver, tap 2 to 3 holes into the coconut and drain the water into a liquid measuring cup. Refrigerate the coconut water for later use. • Halve the coconut: Place the coconut on a cutting board and wrap a towel around the base to keep it in place. With a cleaver or large chef’s knife, strike quick and hard across the center crosswise. If you hit the “sweet spot,” the coconut should easily fall in half. • Place each of the coconut halves facedown on a baking sheet, and place in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the coconut begins to pull away from the shell. • Once the coconut has cooled slightly, run a knife between the meat and the shell to extract the coconut meat. If a thin layer of shell is still attached, remove with a vegetable peeler. • Holding the extracted coconut meat face up in your hand lengthwise, peel long strips with a vegetable peeler, starting along the rim. • Place the strips in a large bowl. Add the brown sugar and a couple pinches of salt to the bowl. Refrigerate for 24 hours. DAY OF • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. • To make the marinade: Combine ½ cup of the extracted coconut water with the maple syrup in a small saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat slightly, and cook until the mixture thickens slightly, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat. • Pour the syrup into a medium-sized mixing bowl and add the sesame oil, soy sauce, liquid smoke, paprika, 2 dashes of salt, 2 dashes of freshly ground black pepper, apple cider vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, a dash of garlic powder and a dash of cinnamon. • Remove the coconut strips from the refrigerator and blot with paper towels. Add them to the marinade. Let marinate for 30 minutes, uncovered, mixing halfway through. • Place the marinated strips on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, basting and flipping halfway through. • While the strips bake, prepare the figs by cutting off their stems and slicing them in half. Place the figs on a baking sheet and put 1 teaspoon of goat cheese on each fig half. • Remove the coconut bacon from the oven and let cool. • Set the oven to high broil. • Once the coconut bacon has cooled slightly, wrap 2 to 3 strips (depending on length) around each fig. Secure with a toothpick. Sprinkle with salt and place under the broiler for 30 seconds, being careful not to let the bacon burn. • Place on a serving platter and drizzle with the agave nectar. Serve immediately. * Available at all Straub’s locations, straubs.com