Review: Manchester Public House

Editor's note: Manchester Public House has closed.

The name Manchester Public House might bring to mind a kitschy, faux-British bar teeming with soccer paraphernalia, but it’s actually a stylish and reserved pub tucked away on the southern edge of Franz Park and Dogtown.

Though there’s a heavy Sunday brunch and NFL crowd, most nights Manchester Public House is full of casually dressed regulars blowing the froth off a few pints of Guinness while Motown and ’70s and ’80s pop hits fill the air. The tempo picks up on weekend nights when a decidedly younger crowd goes strong until closing at 1:30 a.m. For the most part though, Manchester remains an old-school, unpretentious corner pub.

Belly up to the long wooden bar dominating the cozy, dark brick main room or relax in one of the deep leather booths lining the opposite wall. Those seeking a little more privacy can head to a handful of tables and a grand, old tufted leather chesterfield sofa facing a fireplace in the back room. The comfortable and inviting pub is complemented by a small patio with worn picnic tables where lonely burning cigars wait for their owners to return from the bar with freshened drinks.

It’s a pub, so stick with the beer. The menu features roughly 20 impressive pours in a wide range of styles. A tip of the cap to the management, which includes half-pint options (around $3) with already reasonable pints (all less than $7). Along with local favorites like Civil Life, out-of-state and import brews like Scrimshaw and Bell’s regularly slide across the bar – frothy, full and never flat on numerous visits. The hard liquor is adequate, but lackluster cocktails are certainly not the draw here. I’ve had more satisfying Gin and Tonics out of my kitchen, but it’s hard to be disappointed in a bar that serves 16-ounce cans of Stag and Pabst Blue Ribbon for only $3.

Manchester’s food menu boasts meaty, smoked options and quirky little treats like Pork Wellington Bites. Dogtown is St. Louis’ unofficial burger town, and the pub’s Hellraiser Burger, complete with fried jalapenos, Sriracha bacon and pepper jack cheese, stood up to any I’ve had in the neighborhood. Another winner was the Scotch egg, a hard-boiled egg wrapped in fennel-heavy sausage and a feathery-light breading. It paired flawlessly with the accompanying dollop of grainy mustard sauce. The brisket nachos were also well worth the calories – homemade corn tortilla chips remained crispy even after being doused in a healthy portion of beef brisket, thick and smoky-sweet vegetarian chili and Chihuahua cheese.

However, don’t expect anything special from the pulled pork quesadillas or fish tacos. The former are bland and disappointing, and the latter pull off the difficult task of being incredibly over-seasoned and boring at the same time. Minus a few hiccups, the appetizer- and sandwich-heavy menu makes a great pub meal or late-night snack, as the kitchen is open until 11:30 p.m. most nights.

Falling in line with the string of great new bars redefining Dogtown, Manchester Public House has a level of service and style embedded so deeply that everything seems effortless. It’s a solid neighborhood pub or casual date spot where a quick bite can turn into a long, enjoyable evening in a comfortable space.

Manchester Public House
6655 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.9111