Not-Fish Tacos

Tofu gets a bad rap. Haters like me mock its bland taste and rubbery, slimy texture. But since tofu is a great source of inexpensive plant-based protein, I wanted to give it a second chance. And I found its mild flavor is actually an asset, making tofu a blank canvas that soaks up seasoning and plays well with any cuisine. However, I still had a hard time improving its texture, so I hopped on board the Chop Shop STL food truck to learn how chef-owner Eliott Harris makes his crave-inducing crispy tofu bites. His method for making tofu that’s delightfully crunchy on the outside, yet hot and melty on the inside is not a huge surprise: You have to fry it.

First, Harris dredges his tofu in equal parts potato starch and dry tempura batter mix (think Japanese Bisquick), both of which are available in local Asian supermarkets. My research indicated that cornstarch and flour would also work, but Harris’ version yields a lighter, crunchier crust.

Harris slings his tofu into a deep-fryer filled with neutral, high-smoke point oils like canola or soybean. Now, a fryer happens to be the only kitchen gadget I don’t own. Fortunately, a cast-iron Dutch oven filled with enough oil to cover the tofu did the trick. If you don’t have a hot oil thermometer, you can guestimate the temperature by sticking a wooden spoon handle into the oil. If tiny bubbles fizz up around the handle, you’re close to 350 degrees – the temperature Harris recommended. If your healthy heart is palpitating at the thought of frying such a wholesome food, rest assured that fried tofu tastes blissfully light and grease-free.

With the texture puzzle solved, I needed to weave a dish around my new favorite protein nuggets. I could add the tofu to a Chop Shop STL-inspired Japanese entree, an Indian paneer dish or even a mock-Caesar salad. But I’m tired of sitting out Hynes family fish taco nights, so I decided to substitute fried tofu for our usual tilapia.

I boosted the flavor by marinating the tofu in a lemon-cumin-garlic bath. Give yourself at least an hour for the marinade to work its magic, although overnight is best. To appease my fish-eaters, I also added a little Old Bay seasoning to my starch mix.

We usually garnish our fish tacos with a cabbage slaw and spicy chipotle aioli (which is fancy food talk for zingy mayonnaise). Since the Japanese-inspired tempura batter was working so well, I borrowed another Asian staple, taking a tablespoon of Sriracha sauce and stirring it into vegan mayonnaise for Sriracha aioli to drizzle over the tofu. I also soaked some shredded red cabbage in a citrus-agave dressing to add a burst of color and layers of flavor to the dish. These crunchy, spicy not-fish tacos made a tofu not-hater out of me.

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NOT-FISH TACOS

3 to 4 servings

1 cup plus 1 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. minced garlic
2 tsp. ground cumin
2 12-oz. packages firm tofu
½ cup vegan mayonnaise such as Just Mayo
1 Tbsp. Sriracha
1 Tbsp. agave nectar
1 Tbsp. lime juice
1 pinch plus ¼ tsp. kosher salt, divided
2 cups thinly-sliced red cabbage
½ cup dry tempura batter mix
½ cup potato starch
2 Tbsp. Old Bay seasoning
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
6 cups canola oil
8 8-inch flour tortillas
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 avocado peeled, pitted and sliced

• In a 9-by-13-inch glass baking dish, stir together 1 cup olive oil, the lemon juice, garlic and cumin until well combined. Cut the tofu crosswise into 8 ½-inch slices. Blot with paper towels, then place in the baking dish. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight.
• In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise and Sriracha until well combined, then set aside. In a medium bowl, stir together the agave nectar, lime juice, remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and a pinch of salt. Add the cabbage and toss to coat, then set aside.
• In a heavy, deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, warm the canola oil until the temperature reaches 350 degrees.
• In a medium bowl, combine the dry tempura batter mix, potato starch, Old Bay seasoning, black pepper and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt.
• In batches, remove the tofu pieces from the marinade, allowing excess to drip off, then dredge the tofu in the starch mixture to coat. Transfer several pieces of tofu to the hot oil. Fry until golden, about 2 minutes per side, then transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.
• Heat the tortillas according to package directions. Place 2 pieces of tofu in each tortilla, drizzle Sriracha mayo on top, then divide the cabbage and cilantro among the tacos. Top with sliced avocado and serve immediately.