Vegan spring risotto

Risotto without Parmesan is just rice,” retorted a foodie friend of mine as we talked shop in a meeting (aka, texted about dinner in the carpool line). And just like that, the veggie gauntlet was thrown. Yes, a handful of aged cheese usually finishes the dish. But risotto’s silky texture comes from the starch on the arborio rice, not milk. If ever there was a dish I could veganize without losing taste or texture, risotto was it. I sauteed onions in oil and vegan butter, then stirred in the rice. Toasting the rice in oil is the first secret to making al dente risotto. It helps the grains retain their firm bite, even after soaking up six cups of warm broth. The second and most important secret is to add that broth one ladleful at a time, stirring constantly, allowing each addition to absorb before you pour in the next one. All that stirring literally knocks the starch from the rice to create a rich, dairy-free sauce. You’re stirring constantly about 20 minutes, so it really helps if you’re working through a disagreement with a pal. Using good broth is the third secret. I used Better Than Bouillon Seasoned Vegetable Base because it delivers more umami than anything I can make from scratch. The result was a salty, savory, Parmesan-free risotto. You can stop here and happily enjoy your vegan risotto (or, if you’re Carnivore Bob, you can throw a pork chop next to it). However, at the moment I’m obsessed with beets, a root vegetable that gives a nod to winter but looks as colorful as spring. They’re the perfect bridge to take my hearty risotto into warmer temperatures. Shredding and sauteing the raw beets made a risotto that was doubly disappointing; the beets remained crunchy while the rice devolved into mush, but roasting and pureeing the beets released their natural sweetness. The puree blended smoothly into the risotto, giving it a glorious fuchsia color. To peel without dyeing your hands, hold a beet in one hand with a paper towel and rub to wipe away the skin. Golden beets can work in this recipe, too, but their flavor is milder. Consider using one sliced on top of your beet-red risotto as a color-contrasting garnish. Just be sure to roast it separately so the colors don’t bleed. And because beets and vinegar go together like friendship and competition, I finished the dish with a balsamic reduction. This vibrant vegan risotto is as rich and flavorful as the Parmesan-packed version, particularly when it’s enjoyed with a side dish of smug. VEGAN BEET RISOTTO 4 to 6 servings 3 medium red beets, scrubbed and trimmed 1 medium golden beet, scrubbed and trimmed 3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided 1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided 4 Tbsp. water, divided 1 cup balsamic vinegar 6 cups vegetable stock 2 Tbsp. vegan buttery spread, such as Earth Balance Vegan Buttery Sticks 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 cups arborio rice 2 tsp. minced garlic ½ cup dry white wine or dry sherry 2 tsp. lemon juice 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. • In a large bowl, toss the beets with 1 tablespoon olive oil and ½ teaspoon salt. Place the red beets in a roasting pan with 2 tablespoons water. Place the yellow beet in a separate roasting pan with the remaining 2 tablespoons water. Cover both pans with aluminum foil and roast 40 to 50 minutes, until the beets are soft when pierced with a fork. Let the beets rest at room temperature until cool enough to touch. • Meanwhile, pour the vinegar into a small pot and bring it to a low boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 20 minutes, stirring frequently, until reduced to ¹∕³ cup. Remove from heat and set aside. • Use a paper towel to hold the beets and wipe off the skins. Discard paper towels and skins, and set the golden beet aside. Quarter the red beets and place them in the bowl of a food processor. Puree until no lumps remain, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Set aside. • In a medium pot over medium-high heat, bring the vegetable stock to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat to low. • In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and the buttery spread. Saute the onion 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until softened. Add the rice and stir 3 minutes to toast. Add the garlic and cook 30 seconds. Deglaze the pan with the wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook 1 minute, until the rice absorbs the liquid. • Reduce heat to medium. Add the stock to the rice mixture 1 ladleful at a time, stirring until the broth is absorbed before adding more. Cook 20 to 25 minutes, until all the stock is absorbed and the rice is tender but toothsome. • Stir in the red beet puree and cook 1 minute. Stir in the lemon juice, pepper and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Taste and adjust the seasonings. • Remove from heat and serve immediately. Thinly slice the golden beet and garnish each plate with a couple slices, along with a drizzle of the balsamic reduction.