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Mar 22, 2018
Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
Power Lunch
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Lunch Rush: Pizzeoli
By Andrew Barrett | Photos by Dave Moore
Posted On: 11/01/2016   

Pizzeoli Wood Fired Pizza Napoletana†
1928 S. 12th St., St. Louis, 314.449.1111, pizzeoli.com

Walking into Pizzeoli, youíre met with the warm aroma of dough cooking in the adorable wood-fire oven and the warm greetings of chef-owner Scott Sandler. Lunch usually isnít busy, which means service is prompt, and your pie arrives fast Ė baked at more than 800 degrees, it only takes a few minutes. Making vegan and vegetarian Neapolitan pizzas of this caliber requires a lot of practice and attention to detail. Fresh ingredients arenít just a hook here, and soft, but not-too-soft dough is made daily and hand-stretched to order.

Veganís Delight
Layered with a cauliflower and carrot ďcheeseĒ sauce that has a pleasing orange hue, the pizza is topped with vegan Parmesan, mushrooms, grape tomatoes and vegan sausage, and seasoned with garlic, oregano, black pepper and olive oil. The taste was that of a refined Totinoís frozen pizza, and I mean that in the best possible way. It reminded me of comfy evenings on the couch.

The Funghi with red sauce
The Funghi features Pizzeoliís house-made mozzarella accompanied by thyme, oregano and, of course, mushrooms. The subtly flavorful red sauce doesnít feel the need to announce itself, but is there to work with the team. The fun selection of mushrooms like cremini, shiitake and yellow trumpet gave a satisfying texture made all the better by the crust. Iím normally a heathen who leaves a pile of tough crusts behind, but I found myself gobbling up every last crumb of these tender pies.

The New Yorker
The New Yorker lives up to its big city roots. Fontina, fontinella and Parmesan melt together atop the same tomato sauce, seasoned with garlic, oregano and olive oil. Itís the wood-fired brother to greasy, folded up street-vendor slices. Instead of dodging sad knock-off mascots in Times Square, you can enjoy a slice next to Pizzeoliís cozy oven. Each chewy bite scratches a hard-to-reach pizza itch in St. Louis.

House Salad
Pizzas are almost the only thing on the menu, but donít overlook the lone house salad. Bright, fresh greens punctuated by grape tomatoes and Parmesan cheese are tossed with a light balsamic dressing. Perfect in its simplicity and execution, the timeless salad was a refreshing dish that went well with hot pizza.

The Downside
This can end up being a spendy lunch once you throw in a Mexican Coke and a salad. The quality is worth it, but this isnít the place to grab a cheap slice on the go (despite their willingness to box up pizzas).

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