He Said | She Said: Caprese salads are late-summer classics

April: I say “ka-pray-say,” and Steve says “ka-prees.” Steve: But ny-ther of us pronounces tomato “to-mah-to.” A: The word is nee-ther. S: Pardon me? A: Nee-ther of us pronounces tomato “to-mah-to.” And for the record, I do say “to-mah-to” on some occasions. S: What occasions – let’s just talk about the salads, shall we? Steve’s Caprese salad profile: Punchy balsamic is a must. As far as the tomatoes go, I like them meaty, fleshy; it’s the redirected carnivore in me. Heirlooms are the most attractive – I like all the colors. April’s Caprese salad profile: Yes to ripe tomatoes. Yes to ripe to-mah-tos. No, no, no to tough mozzarella, lackluster basil and punk-out vinaigrettes that never quite permeate the salad. La Dolce Via Bakery and Café 4470 Arco Ave., St. Louis · 314.534.1699 Lunch: Tue. to Fri. – 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Sat. – 1 to 3 p.m.; Dinner: Thu. to Sat. – 6 to 11 p.m.; Brunch: Sat. – 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., Sun. – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. A: So the story goes that Steve was once terrified by a to-mah-to. S: It’s true. At Indian Guide camp, I was faced with the horror of eating a sliced tomato for the first time. A: Kids. But now it’s all better? S: Much. The tomatoes in this Caprese have been properly ripened to a deep red – a process that’s as important as cooking when it comes to other dishes. Timing is key. A: The lemony vinaigrette, a mixture of different vinegars and a vivid olive oil, is sloshy and delish. S: And the presentation is impressive. A: Very – a spray of alternating tomato and mozzarella slices topped with a flurry of bright basil that the chef grows right outside the kitchen. S: Don’t forget the trickle of olives – and the purple and yellow cherry tomatoes on top. Beautiful. A: Agreed. Bee-you-tee-ful. S: That is no way to pronounce a word. Buy a dictionary. A: I have one. Pi 6144 Delmar Blvd., St Louis · 314.727.6633 Mon. to Sat. – 11 a.m. to midnight (Bar – until 1:30 a.m.), Sun. – 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. (Bar – until midnight) A: Another garlandlike Caprese. I think we’ve discovered a trend. S: More olives on the side as well. I think we’ve discovered two trends. A: I give the vinaigrette a 3.14. S: I give it a 10. A: You would. S: What’s that supposed to mean? A: Oh, I’m just frustrated because I think a Caprese needs a convincing dressing; otherwise, it’s just mozzarella and tomatoes. S: Well, this mozzarella and these Campari tomatoes are pretty good: soft, fresh, toothsome. A: Hmm. S: Oh, and what’s this on the bottom of the plate? Why, it’s oil and vinegar! Isn’t that what they call “salad dressing”? A: Hmm. S: Don’t be cross. Here, take some bread, and let’s mop the whole thing up. Bar Italia Ristorante and Caffè 13 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis · 314.361.7010 Sun. to Thu. – 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Bar – until 1:30 a.m.), Fri. and Sat. – 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. (Bar – until 1:30 a.m.) A: Wow, look at all this lettuce. Would you still call this a ka-pray-say? S: Well, I’d call it a ka-prees, like the Chevy. A: Even if the balsamic doesn’t really punch? S: It punches enough. A: Even if the mozzarella’s a little stiff? S: I disagree. A: Certainly you don’t think these tomatoes are meaty? S: They’re meaty enough – especially considering the late arrival of the tomato season this year. Not to change the subject, but are these to-may-tos or to-mah-tos? A: Well, those two slices are to-may-tos, and those two slices are to-mah-tos. S: What about the other one? A: It could go ee-ther way. S: The word is eye-ther. A: Anyway, what I want to know is when the yellow tomatoes I’ve eaten in years past will show up in this Caprese again. They’re the best. I Fratellini 7624 Wydown Blvd., Clayton · 314.727.7901 Lunch: Mon. to Fri. – 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner: Mon. to Thu. – 5:30 to 9 p.m., Fri. and Sat. – 5 to 10 p.m. S: You say eye-tal-yan and I say eh-tal-yan. A: Steve, I do not say eye-tal-yan. Ever. Please, this is a fancy place. S: I can see that. Take a look at this Caprese! A: A prime Italian specimen. Two thick slices of grilled ciabatta – one for you and one for me – covered by a decadent avalanche of cherry to-mah-tos. Abundant basil chiffonade adds copious spice. And the balsamic-forward vinaigrette is absolutely everywhere. I’m in heaven. S: Me too. Torn instead of sliced, the mozzarella is like none we’ve seen elsewhere. Usually, boys like tearing things apart, cutting things. I honor mozzarella when it’s been ripped apart to form a rustic, sculpturesque mountain on my plate. I bring dignity to the death of a tomato – A: Steve, the people at the next table are staring over at us in amazement – and not in a good way. Here, take your fork, and let’s polish the whole thing off.