Fresh chips and solid margaritas: More hits than misses at Chimichanga's

Mexican food has always been the cuisine supreme around our house. Before Brendan could walk, he could eat burritos. And not some scrawny little wrap, either; he wanted it maxed out with plenty of salsa and pepper jack cheese. In fact, he ate pepper jack cheese nearly every day for months when he was a toddler; maybe that’s why he has such an affinity now for all things picante. While we do a lot of Mexican cooking at home – both boys are becoming experts on mashing avocados for guacamole – sometimes we still want the luxury of someone else simmering the meat, soaking the beans or pulping the limes. I’d heard great things about Chimichanga’s, so one cold Friday night we bundled up and headed for a midwinter fiesta. Inside, we found all the sunny warmth we needed. Brightly colored walls, lights and decorations dazzled us all. There wasn’t a huge crowd, and we were seated in a booth very quickly. Our server was on us in a flash, delivering a basket of chips, a carafe of salsa and an empty bowl. Brendan served the salsa while Kathy and I looked over the lengthy menu. Since the boys already knew what they wanted, our server got their order right away and promised to come back for ours. When she did, she already had the boys’ dinners in hand. This was huge for us – normally dining out is a test of how long we can endure “When is the food coming?!” from the boys. Duncan got a bean burrito, and Brendan got the burrito/taco combo, and not a peep was heard from their end of the table except the occasional crunch of a chip. It took somewhat longer for Kathy and I to get our orders. Kathy got the T-Bone Chimi – a steak topped with grilled peppers and onions. Kathy felt her steak was thin and a bit tough, but the vegetables were cooked perfectly and had a great flavor. The steak in my Chile Colorado had the benefit of simmering in a spicy red sauce to help with the tenderness, and the red sauce was just piquant enough to send me back to my margarita every few minutes for a cool-down. By the time we finished, the place was packed, and we had to all but squeeze our way through the crowd on our way out. We left excited at having found another great spot to indulge when we were in the mood for Mexican, and eager to come back. On our second trip, though, the boys pulled a fast one on us. Kathy and I had already decided to go for more “mainstream” Mexican offerings – she with a chimichanga, and me with an enchilada sampler – but our would-eat-it-every-night boys turned up their noses at traditional fare, and ordered … mac and cheese and a cheeseburger. But kids are kids, so we let it ride. When the food arrived, though, we were gape-mouthed to see that Brendan’s mac and cheese appeared to have come straight from a blue box. He ate it happily – for him it was a novelty – but Kathy and I were put off. Duncan’s burger was dressed up a little more, but after a token bite, he abandoned it for his fries. Our meals were somewhat better. The chicken in Kathy’s chimichanga – and one of my enchiladas – was very flavorful and tender. A splash of queso on top – which would have done wonders for the mac and cheese – added extra flavor. My enchiladas were a mixed bag. The chicken and beef enchiladas were tasty, but those filled with beans and cheese were bland. Both of our plates came smothered with shredded lettuce, forcing us to excavate our entrées before we could start eating them. Despite that so-so experience, we’re planning to go back to Chimichanga’s. What they did well, they did very well: The staff was very friendly and attentive, the chips were fresh, and the margaritas were nearly perfect. Just stick to the Mexican side of the kids’ menu, and ask the kitchen to hold the lettuce if you’re not in a rabbit food mood. Two little forks up, two big forks holding judgment till next time.