Blending Allows Vintners to Create More Interesting Wines

In the world of time, 1972 is only a milli-second ago. With California wine, this is nearly ancient history. If we consider 1966, the year that Robert Mondavi opened his winery in the Napa Valley, as the Genesis of the modern California wine industry, then Joseph Phelps opening his Napa winery in 1972 is at least the Middle Ages. In a 1974 renaissance, Phelps was the first in California to release a non-varietal proprietary blend, the highly esteemed Insignia, made in the style of the great reds of France’s Bordeaux region. It was the first of a category which would later be known by the created name Meritage (more on that later). The Bordeaux reds are virtually all blends of two to five varieties that the region’s chateaux have agreed make the finest possible wines. These five grape types are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec. The numerous estates of the region can do whatever they choose in blending their astonishing, world-renowned reds. Many use only two or three of these, but quite a few use four or even five varieties. Until Joe Phelps produced his first blend of Insignia in 1974, nearly all great reds of California were labeled varietally, meaning that the wines had to be at least 51 percent of a single grape variety (such as Cabernet Sauvignon). That minimum was later raised to the current level of 75 percent. This does give the consumer a reasonably solid idea of what to expect, but it also limits the ability of the winemaker to improve the wine by blending other varieties. The chateaux of Bordeaux have long known that blends are often highly superior to single varieties, but American producers became accustomed to the familiarity of a known variety on the label. This is much the same as a chef knowing that a soup or stew with two ingredients may be nourishing, but boring, and that adding vegetables, spices and herbs adds to the complexity of the flavors and the enjoyment of the customer. Very early generic names such as Burgundy or Claret were only vague references to European places or traditions and did little to enlighten the purchaser as to style or quality. Beaulieu Vineyard, one of the earliest world-class wineries in the Napa Valley, proudly stated on its labels that its wine was “100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon,” certainly implying that adding another variety such as Merlot was the viticultural equivalent of watering down the gin at the bar. America was on a firm fast track towards varietal recognition. The question was, is 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon the best that we could do? Probably not ? but the marketing term “red wine” was a kiss of death. Is there a more boring name for marketing geeks to hang their hats on than a high-priced bottle of something simply known as “red wine”? Using the totally invented name of Meritage allowed wineries to not only make wines of higher quality, but also gave them a category to embrace. Meritage gave a potential cache of style and provided a place on wine lists for exceptional wines which had more than 26 percent of something other than the primary variety. Rather than embracing the Meritage attitude of making their blends the best of what they do, Missouri wineries tend to blend off their odd lots into lesser-quality and mostly sweeter (but very popular) reds. One that stands apart is Adam Puchta Legacy, a blend of 50 percent Norton and 50 percent St. Vincent. Les Bourgeois Winery's Claret from 1999 and earlier is also notable, although the winery has since changed the labels and is making a 100-percent Norton wine in its place. Recently, I had the great fortune to take part in a vertical tasting (multiple vintages of a single wine) of Joseph Phelps’ Insignia wines ranging from 1978 to the current release of 2001 ? and the tasting happened in St. Louis, which is significant in itself; the Midwest does not see many opportunities like this. One of the characteristics of great wine is how it matures, and the tasting that afternoon certainly verified the reputation of Insignia. Eight wines were presented, four of which could be labeled as Cabernet Sauvignon and four which had less than the required 75 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. I’ve included the percentage of grape varieties in each vintage to give you an idea of the enormous potential available to winemakers who choose to make “red wine.” 1978 – 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 percent Merlot, 20 percent Cabernet Franc Obviously an older wine, but strongly held together and an amazingly long finish. Classic. 1985 – 60 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 percent Merlot, 15 percent Cabernet Franc Though 20 years old, still tasting young, very rich flavors, extremely distinctive. 1992 – 67 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 33 percent Merlot Truly amazing amount of ‘cohones’ for a wine with with 33 percent Merlot. Young and graceful. 1995 – 90 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 7 percent Merlot, 3 percent Petite Verdot Very dark color, loaded with layers of flavors, still a bit tight and needs a bit more patience. 1996 – 83 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 17 percent Merlot Ripe flavors, maturing nicely, very nice drink with a piece of four-legged mammal for dinner. 1997 – 83 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 14 percent Merlot, 3 percent Petite Verdot This was the most fun of the tasting, three wines served blind, only later to find that all three were the same 1997 vintage and even two of them from a single magnum bottle. My notes of these same three wines were: ”yummy and complex,” “tight and tough” and “tannic and big.” Not exactly contradicting comments, although I did give the three servings of the same wine three different scores. Wine is not an exact science. 1999 – 71 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 21 percent Merlot, 6 percent Petite Verdot 1 percent Malbec, 1 percent Cabernet Franc The fruit intensity of a young Insignia was very apparent here. Young Phelps reds have mint, fruit, tannins and sort of a Harley-Davidson style of elegance. 2001 – 89 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 8 percent Petite Verdot, 3 percent Malbec The most recent release was like Brooke Shields in “Pretty Baby.” Young, full of style, character and life, but with the promise of voluptuous flavors to those who have the time to wait. The 2001 is available in St. Louis’ fine wine shops, either in stock or by special order. It should retail for about $130 to $150 per bottle. The older vintages will go up dramatically in price and are probably only available on the Internet or at auction, although some local shops may have an older vintage if they held back any bottles for a wine library.