MO Wine heads across the river

I was excited when I received an e-mail inviting me to judge the wine competition at the Illinois State Fair in Champaign this year. I hate to admit it, but I had never been to the home of the Illini before, and though I’ve judged at this event in the past (traditionally held in Springfield), I have not really explored the depth of the wine world just across the river. As in Missouri, there was a thriving wine industry in Illinois prior to Prohibition. In 1900, there were over 3,000,000 vines in production; that number had dropped to only 23,000 vines by 1986, with only four operating wineries. Today, there are over 700,000 vines planted. Both Missouri and Illinois have nearly the same number of wineries (between 70 and 80, depending on how we count new startups and multiple locations), but one of the great contrasts between the states is the disbursement of locations in Illinois. While most Missouri wineries are concentrated near Hermann, Augusta, St. James, Ste. Genevieve and a growing number near Kansas City, nearly 50 percent of Illinois counties have at least one winery. There are concentrations of properties in the southern part of the state and also near Chicago, but over 75 percent of the counties have vineyards. One of the first subjects that the judges discussed was the immense range of terroir that is present in the state, which encompasses an area approximately 500 miles from top to bottom. Illinois grapes that grow in the frigid winters of Galena, near the Iowa-Wisconsin border, are quite a bit different from those grown in the Shawnee Hills region of the south, near Carbondale. Bill Shoemaker, who compiled a report on the Illinois wine industry in 2006, told me that approximately 30 to 40 percent of Illinois wine is produced solely from Illinois fruit. Most of the nongrape fruit wines are from fruit from states such as Michigan or Oregon. There are also quite a few wineries bringing in juice or fruit from California or New York. A great highlight of the event was to be able to spend some time with Ted Wichmann, a man of nearly legendary reputation in the wine world of southern Illinois. Wichmann is a retired Ph.D. who was the winemaker at the first winery in the Shawnee Hills area, Alto Vineyards, and one of the driving forces in establishing the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail, the first in the state. Wichmann also wrote the application for the first American Viticulture Area in Illinois; AVA status, granted to wine-growing areas in the U.S. that can demonstrate the distinction of their region, was awarded in 2006. The uniqueness of Shawnee Hills’ terroir is the elevation: “The hills, many over 1,000 feet elevation, were south of the glaciers, which stopped to the north of Carbondale,” Wichmann told me. The AVA begins at this ridge, which also protects the region from much of the colder climate and frequent frosts that occur to the north. It extends from the Mississippi River west across the state to the Ohio River in the east. The soil is also a factor in that it is a well-drained combination of limestone and sandstone. “We are growing vinifera in the area, such as Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Viognier,” Wichmann said. There’s a great sense of potential for these wines. Case in point: The 2008 Governor’s Cup for dry red was awarded to Prairie State Winery’s Cabernet Franc 2007. Although the winery is located just a short drive northwest of Chicago, the fruit was grown in the Shawnee Hills region. Five other wines were awarded Governor’s Cups: Blue Sky Vineyard Seyval Blanc 2007 (Shawnee Hills) for best dry white; Lynfred Winery Seyval Blanc (non-vintage, Chicago area) for best sweet white; the top pink honor went to Willet’s Winery (near Peoria) for its 2007 Frontenac; Pomona Winery Kir 2006 (near Carbondale) for best fruit wine; and the best dessert wine was the Kickapoo Creek Nort Noir (non-vintage, also near Peoria), which is a Norton port. The Best of Show award went to the Pheasant Hollow Red & Blue (non-vintage), which is a stunningly beautiful fruit wine made of cherries and blueberries. Fruit wines comprised a significant amount of the entries, much different than the handful entered in the Missouri State Wine Competition. There is certainly a wealth of dedicated and innovative winemaking happening in our neighbor to the east, and, like all winegrowing regions of America, there are many styles of wines being made. With many Illinois wineries within an easy day’s drive from St. Louis, it’s easy – and worthwhile – to check them out for yourself. Certified sommelier Glenn Bardgett has overseen Annie Gunn’s award-winning wine list for the last seven years.