Diner Deluxe

Anyone seeking a culinary blast from the past need go no further than Deluxe Fine Foods and Spirits, a new spot in Maplewood that blends rockabilly chic with the come-as-you-are feel of a neighborhood joint. Black, red and stainless steel dominate the comfortably retro-modern dining room, complete with old cigarette ads and pinups lining the walls. Plenty of tables are scattered through the middle of the space, but if possible, grab one of the booths lining the walls. They look like bench seats pulled out of a ’57 Chevy and make the perfect seat to sink into under the weight of some serious comfort food. Though the small-ish menu offers unexpected items like crab cakes and hummus, we went right for the classic diner fare. An order of Rings of Fire immediately put suspicions of kitschy to rest: Thick slices of sweet onion surrounded by a just-as-thick, crumbly crust are served drizzled with hot sauce; a side of blue cheese dressing for dunking cools things down. It’s little wonder why the Pepper Belly appetizer, featuring down-home chili, melted cheese and super-sized Fritos for scooping, is a favorite Maplewood snack. In fact, that chili seems to be everywhere on the menu. Deluxe’s version is thick and hearty; almost equal parts red kidney beans and ground beef add heft, cumin and chili powder add depth, and fresh garlic and onion add a spicy sweetness. It stars in multiple dishes, including a classic chili mac that combines the chili with oversized, al dente macaroni noodles in a dish roughly the size of a mixing bowl. Be prepared to share it with a friend, or three. Of the non-chili dishes, the patty melt delivered. Though the beef patty was almost swallowed by the two slices of Texas toast surrounding it, the combination of bacon and caramelized onions added just enough sweetness to take the edge off the bittersweet Swiss. Side dish options – or the Pit Crew, as Deluxe calls them – make for a difficult decision. Green beans, which are fresh and not too oily, arrive studded with bits of bacon and slices of sautéed white onion. For carb-aholics, the mashed potatoes and gravy are a must: desirably lumpy and served with a thick and well-seasoned gravy. Feeling downright sinful? The mac-n-cheese is an obvious choice. Velveeta lays a foundation for what would be better described as cheese-n-some mac; Monterey Jack and a double dose of shredded Cheddar create a super-creamy coating on the noodles, while Parmesan gives the dish its coveted crusty surface. Dessert seems superfluous here, which might be OK since Deluxe falls short in its dessert choices. Everything about Deluxe says diner, and although the restaurant is still fine-tuning its dessert menu, there is no pie! Just three cake choices and Lee’s Butter Roll, a basic pie crust topped with butter cream, lots of cinnamon sugar and a dollop of whipped cream. Lack of sweet selections aside, Deluxe offers more hits than misses. Servers keep the pressure off and the suggestions helpful, and the checkered stage up front gets some use once the minors depart after 10.