Funny menu, serious food

It may be my penchant for tattooed wait staffs. It might be my love of hand-tossed dough and canned Stag beer. Or dishes with names like Stinky Pizza. But something has steered me back to The Wedge four times in three weeks. Whatever it is, this place is good. Really good. This bar/club/pizzeria gets its name from the oddly shaped block (which makes parking a true challenge) on which it sits in the semi-seedy neighborhood just west of I-55. Known as Windy’s on the Wedge until the owners sold just over a year ago, the current state of this eatery is definitely a step up from its former life as a smoky bar and mediocre “restaurant” uninhabited by the hipsters that hang there now. The Wedge these days is cozy and cool, with booths lining the wall and a couple of tables in front of the elevated DJ booth next to the door. The flatscreens behind the bar sometimes play the History Channel or TLC, and in the corner hangs a boar head with a cigarette dangling from its mouth. Black-and-white photos of punk rock bands and music legends spot the walls. The service reflects this attitude in that it’s informal, yet attentive and prompt. While it’s simple, affordable and doesn’t overwhelm you with choices, the menu covers all the bases: pizzas, calzones, appetizers, salads, soups and sandwiches – and, interestingly, several of the dishes include types of cheese you’d never expect to see anywhere but on an expensive cheese plate. You’ll find frequent mention of things like affumicato (smoked), “real good anchovies,” and a “heavenly” tomato sauce that is some of the best (and spiciest!) I’ve tasted. While humorous and mocking commentaries may speckle the menu, there is nothing funny about this food. Take the salsicca-roasted pepper calzone, for example. It’s stuffed full with perfectly caramelized onions and not-too-stringy mozzarella, and is encased by a chewy homemade dough. It even comes with that killer tomato sauce on the side for dipping. The Hot Hot Pizza, topped with tomatoes, spicy pepperoni, red chiles, provolone and mozzarella and served on The Wedge’s pillowy, hand-tossed pizza crust, has a definite kick to it (as do most of The Wedge’s offerings), but it’s evened out by a surprising sweetness that leaves you wanting more. Also on the pie menu is the French Connection with tangy goat cheese, shaved fennel that isn’t a bit overpowering, that killer tomato sauce and fresh herbs. There are a few misses, though. The salads are sizeable, but tend to be a little heavy on the dressing; the sausage-stuffed cremini mushroom caps are a great idea but are on the soft side and need a bit more flavor. The open-faced diced chicken and roasted pepper sandwich is excellent, the mozzarella and provolone perfectly melted and the chicken tender, though the kitchen could stand to be more generous with the toppings. Manicotti might not be your thing, but The Wedge’s version, made with tender, grilled eggplant rolled over rich ricotta cheese, is worth trying. It’s certainly filling with the addition of hearty marinara sauce, though it could use a side of breadsticks or something to cut the overall creaminess of the dish. While The Wedge has some kinks to work out, this joint’s definitely got the potential to be a great cheap-eats place for Italian-style gastronomy.