This easy technique is a nearly foolproof way to cook fish

Fish steamed en papillote (in a sealed parcel of parchment paper) may sound all puffed up – and, indeed, looks that way as the inflated pouch emerges from the oven – but it is one of the most approachable and reliable ways to prepare fish. Granted, the presentation is showy, but I assure you, the dish is far from pretentious. Its glamorous looks belie its simple and nearly foolproof approach. In the most general terms, steaming falls into the broad category of moist-heat cookery that encompasses both stewing and braising. In contrast to dry-heat techniques, such as sautéing and roasting, that involve the direct application of heat with little to no added liquid, moist-heat methods rely on heat generated by or transferred through liquid to do the actual cooking. But the approaches to moist-heat cookery – and the products to which they are best suited – vary widely. In steaming, evaporated liquid is trapped in a sealed container of some form, and heat is indirectly applied to the food as a gentle mist envelops it. This approach is particularly useful for vegetables, tender cuts of meat or thin fish fillets (such as flounder, sole, skate and catfish, to name a few) that might otherwise fall apart or rapidly overcook if subjected to direct immersion in simmering broth – the approach used with most other moist-heat techniques. And while stewing and braising are characterized by long cooking at low temperatures, steaming usually takes place in a hot oven or over medium-high heat and is consequently very quick. (An average-size fish fillet will cook to perfection in 10 minutes or less.) Google “steamed fish” and you’ll find manifold accoutrement – from collapsible metal racks to bamboo baskets and clay pots – designed to assist with the process. However, I’m partial to no-frills, low-cost parchment paper – just 14 to 15 inches and a few deft folds are all you need to package a single 4- to 5-ounce portion of fish. One specially wrapped parcel per guest makes a striking statement at the dinner table, but it affords some practical benefits, too. As the fish cooks, the pouch captures all the tasty juices that would ordinarily run off, thus creating an instant sauce with no extra effort. It also eliminates the hassle of transferring delicate fish from steamer to plate. Fish can be served directly from the pouch or slipped effortlessly onto a dish – no sticking, no breaking into pieces, no falling through racks. Assembling the ingredients for a pouch is equally uncomplicated. Simply season both sides of the fish with salt and pepper; then, for added flavor and color, place each fillet atop a lofty bed of greens, vegetables and aromatics centered on a piece of parchment paper. I recommend about 2 ounces of greenery to each 4-ounce fish fillet. Though this quantity may seem excessive at the start, it will wilt to a small fraction of its initial volume as it cooks. As always, I encourage you to experiment with different combinations of veggies until you find ones you like best. The actual vegetables matter less than the manner in which they are prepared – whatever you choose must be sliced nearly paper-thin in order to cook fully in the same short time as the fish. Finally, drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoons of liquid (a combination of wine, juice and/or a touch of fat) over the fillet to fuel the steaming process, fold the parchment paper over the fish and bind the edges tightly together by making a series of small overlapping folds. Believe it or not, pouch cooking has its share of detractors who say it takes too much effort to cut and fold individual paper parcels. To this, I say: nonsense. If you haven’t the time to cut out a few circles or squares (either will do), parchment paper bags and precut rounds used for lining cake pans are readily available alternatives. Just be sure to avoid waxed paper (the coating will melt in the oven) and foil, which will adversely react with acids in the fish and other liquids added to the pouch. Another issue voiced by critics is that it can be difficult to gauge whether the fish is done without opening the package and breaking the seal. Though there is some merit to this concern, the fact that the fish is swathed in steam as it cooks makes this approach more forgiving than most. Bake the fish in a 400-degree oven no more than 10 minutes per inch of fish thickness (or 1 to 2 minutes less for fillets thinner than 1 inch), and you’ll always end up with succulent fish. With these minor concerns now put to bed, I think you’ll agree that this easy and elegant cooking method deserves a serious test. Nothing is stopping you, so full steam ahead!