SAUCE MAGAZINE
Posted On: 12/01/2009
Sure, I’ve encountered daily specials and off-the-menu items, but I’ve never been to a place where only certain items are offered on certain days. I thought at first that such a setup must be a nuisance – what if a craving for Wednesday’s fried chicken hits on a Monday? – but upon eating at Yummies, a new soul food establishment in Compton Heights, I chose to side with the theory that such variety can yield multiple must-have dishes.
Monday’s meatloaf was served on a plate a little too small for the large helping. It won’t knock you off your feet with bold flavor, but that doesn’t mean it’s flavorless. The meat, which is tender and holds together pretty solidly, is quite good: All the flavors, from the onion to the green pepper, can be detected in one bite. A savory brown gravy baked into the top adds another layer of flavor.
Liver and onions and chicken and dumplings, offered only on Thursdays, are everything you’d expect from a soul food place. The former isn’t much more than small, chewy slabs of liver covered in oniony gravy, but the flavor is rich. The chicken and dumplings is a thick stew of shredded chicken studded with squarish al dente pillows of dough and assorted vegetables, depending on the day. It’s served piping hot in a bowl, and if you’re lucky, you may find a wishbone or two.
The sides, which some believe are the best part of any soul food operation, also vary depending on the day, but are often offered more than just one day a week. Boiled collard greens are vinegary and light and serve as an appropriate contrast to the heavy main dishes. The pan-fried corn comes in a sweet, thick, buttery juice and, like the rich, chunky sweet potato mash, is so sweet it could double as a dessert. Coleslaw is absolutely delicious with finely chopped cabbage and a tangy-sweet creamy dressing, while the potato salad is overpoweringly oniony with a mustard-mayo dressing and a sprinkle of paprika. The mac and cheese side is creamy but not heavy; it’s made with real cheese rather than Velveeta, so the saltiness is at a minimum. And, last but not least, green beans – tender, peppery and loaded with flavor thanks to marinated onions.
Also available are some cooked-to-order sandwiches and burgers. These take 15 to 20 minutes to prepare, but if the fried meats, smothered steaks and neck bones aren’t your cup of tea, you’ve got options. The turkey burger, char-grilled with flavorful spices, is most likely the healthiest thing on the menu, as its white meat is incredibly lean.
To end your meal, don’t miss Yummies’ Famous Banana Pudding. The mixture of sweet pudding, ripe bananas and chunks of spongy yet dense vanilla wafer cookies claims to be fat-and sugar-free but tastes as though it’s neither; served cold, it’s smooth and rich and bursting with flavor.
The price for such large portions of food is nominal, and the Yummies experience – where the servers wear tuxedo shirts and bow ties, the menu doubles as your place mat and Musak constantly plays – is one you won’t get anywhere else in town.
FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS
Dine-In-Ability: It’s a bit stark and echoey, but the service is great and there are always tables available.
Try It, You’ll Like It: Chicken and dumplings with a side of sweet potatoes and greens.
Feast or Famine: Entrées heavily favor meat-eaters.
Where: Yummies Soul Food Cafe, 3149 Shenandoah Ave., St. Louis, 314.226.9800
When: Mon., Wed. and Sun. – 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Thu. and Fri. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sat. – 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
