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St. Louis holds many surprises for Busch’s Grove’s executive chef
• by Julie Failla Earhart - Photo by Jonathan Swegle
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The lead proprietor of the new Busch’s Grove, Lester Miller, wanted to create an “out-of-town experience” for St. Louisans. He purchased the old Busch’s Grove, which had closed in 2003, and rebuilt, reshaped and redefined the space. One of the people Miller lured into realizing his vision was executive chef Todd Weisz.
Weisz and his family – his wife, Cynthia, and their children, Sam, 6, and Lily, 3 – now call Ladue home. “I work long, long hours,” he said. “I like to get home as much as possible. Living within a few miles of the restaurant allows me to run home between lunch and dinner and be with my family.”
How did you get involved with this project?
Before coming to St. Louis, I spent 13 years as the executive chef at the five-star Turnberry Isle Resort and Club in Miami. I met Lester Miller there, and over the years we developed a rapport. He talked to me about coming to St. Louis and helping him with this new venue. I’ve been here since the beginning, watching it take shape.
What cinched the deal?
I wasn’t looking for a job or to even relocate, but when Lester told me that [prominent restaurant architect] David Rockwell would design the new space … I couldn’t say no.
What’s been the biggest challenge?
The [human resources] aspect. I’m used to having an HR department to handle the day-to-day lives of my staff. Now I have to do it all. New staff, new space, new situations.
How did you get started in the culinary industry?
I grew up crabbing and shucking oysters in Freeport, Long Island. Like every other stupid kid, I wanted a job, so I started as a dishwasher. One day somebody called in sick, and the chef yelled, “Hey! Get over here!” at me. I was hooked, and I’ve never done anything else.
Never?
Yup, never. I’m 42 years old, and I’ve spent my entire career in the kitchen. After high school I went to the Culinary Institute of America in New York. Then I went to the Pierre Hotel, still in New York. I had the urge to get off the East Coast. I had never been anywhere else, so I got a job in Aspen.
While I was there, one of my culinary instructors called me and invited me to work at Ernie’s in San Francisco. What a training ground! Then I went to Miami and learned about spa cuisine. I knew a lot about cooking and the chef knew a lot about nutrition, so we made a great team. Then I was transferred to Vermont, then back to Miami and now I’m here.
What has surprised you most about St. Louis?
Several things. First, I was told that it’s strictly a meat-and-potatoes town. Boy, is that stereotype ever wrong! St. Louis is more of a seafood town. We serve between 200 and 250 oysters a day. And that’s just on the half shell. That doesn’t include them being prepared any other way. And the sushi bar is a big, big hit. We’ve gone from having two guys rolling sushi a day to five.
Second, the number and variety of specialty and gourmet shops all over the place. It’s amazing. On that same idea, the Asian markets on Olive [Boulevard] remind me a lot of New York. Third, you can get a beer anywhere. I was at my son’s soccer game the other day, and they were selling beer. Fourth, St. Louisans don’t mind spending $100 for dinner, but they balk at $3 for valet service. What gives with that?
What is your favorite ingredient to work with?
Any variety of fish or seafood. There are so many different textures and flavors that I can cook for weeks and never have the same sense sensations. Fish and seafood represent the most challenges to me. There is that space of just a few minutes [between] where the dish is perfect and where it dies in the window. That’s what we strive for: that perfect moment.
Where does Busch’s Grove fit into St. Louis’ restaurant scene?
We want to be in the same sphere as a Tony’s or an Annie Gunn’s – upscale places people love to go – yet we strive for a very relaxed atmosphere. We can seat about 350, and in each area there is a different feel and a different experience.
Also, I’ve learned that St. Louis is a corporate town. I was amazed at the number of corporate headquarters here. We designed the cabin rooms for privacy, both for business and social events. Each room is soundproof. We also hope to find a niche in the business community and [to add] data ports for laptops in the cabin rooms.
How often do you plan to change the menu?
Constantly. But I never change more than three items at a time. It’s too much stress on all the staff, wait and kitchen. What’s really funny is that if I put an item on the specials, we’ll sell a ton of it. But when I add it to the regular menu, it doesn’t sell.
What was your biggest flop?
Salmon soup. I was in Aspen and right out of culinary school. I had a bunch of salmon bones, so I thought I would boil them down and see what happens. The dish never made it out of the kitchen. I’m sure there are lots of others, but that’s the one that pops to mind.
What advice would you give to an aspiring chef?
Quit watching the Food Network. To achieve chefdom takes a long time. Work for the best chefs at the best restaurants that you can. That’s your true training ground. Learn, learn, learn from those you work with; they’ll be the ones to take you to the next level. Don’t let money be the motivating factor where you cook. Do it for passion, for the learning, for the enjoyment. One thing that newbies take a long time to understand is that chefs are working when others are playing. Holidays are workdays for chefs. Have a realistic mentality toward success. It’s not about being the next Emeril; it’s about the last dish that went out of your kitchen.
What’s unique about the kitchen at Busch’s Grove?
It’s all stainless steel. We have a window in the back so our kitchen staff can actually see what the light of day looks like. It may be a view of the parking lot, but kitchens are normally windowless. And we have a cold room. The maintained temperature is about 40 degrees. If I’m working on a meat dish and get called away, the integrity of the meat and the dish aren’t compromised.
Miller and some restaurant critics have been jousting in the media since Busch’s Grove opened. How has that affected the kitchen staff?
We opened during the holiday season, and that’s a trying time for any restaurant, especially a new one. All I’ll say is that we serve between 600 to 800 plates a day and have been since we opened. Could one have been not quite perfect? Yes. But we’re working on it.
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