I hefted a softball-sized celery root, heavy and rough. The lumpy, lopsided brown thing topped with shocking green fuzz resembled an alien patron from the Mos Eisley Cantina in Star Wars. I sniffed. The clean odor of celery came back to me. I chose two firm candidates with the fewest protrusions and the freshest-looking tops. I’ve never prepared this vegetable at home, but I remember the taste from the rich, food-crazed ’80s.

I first enjoyed celery root, puréed into a creamy soup, in a sleepy California sidewalk café. Later, a rich gratinée at a holiday dinner in New York captured my attention. The intense flavor, like concentrated celery, and the velvety texture in a dish rich with butter, cream, cheese and bread crumbs was a taste revelation. When I couldn’t find celery root at local groceries in St. Louis, I forgot about it – that is, until I learned Berger Bluff Farm will sell locally grown celery root this fall at the Maplewood Farmers’ Market. Additionally, celery root, also called celeriac and celery knob, is available now at Global Foods Market, Sappington International Farmers’ Market and Whole Foods Market.

“Root vegetables thrive in cool weather,” said Lee Abraham, co-owner of Berger Bluff Farm, near Hermann. In an unkind weather year for growing things, the ongoing drought could reduce fall crop yields, but Abraham is optimistic. “We should have a good fall harvest.”

I can’t wait to try the locally grown celery root. The California organic variety I bought at Whole Foods was delicious both raw and steamed. A simple slaw with a mayonnaise and sour cream dressing tasted sweet and zesty; the firm, pliant texture was delightful. But celery root peeled, steamed and smashed with four medium-sized jacketed Yukon Gold potatoes was the hit of the dinner. I steamed each vegetable in separate pans, the celery root for 35 minutes and the potatoes for 20 minutes. I drained and fork-mashed the celery root, added chicken broth, 1 percent milk and a touch of butter, then heated the mixture over low heat. Next, I smashed the potatoes and combined them with the simmering celery root. The dish served four happy guests with leftovers for lunch.

The hardest part of cooking a celery root is the preparation. Peeling and cutting it requires a sharp knife and good technique. To begin, cut off the spiky green topknot and bottom root plate, and then place the flat end on a cutting board. I used my 8-inch French chef’s knife to slice the brown outer layer top to bottom, like peeling a pineapple. A few scrapes of a sharp paring knife finished the job. To cube the root for steaming, I used my chef’s knife again, taking care to use my knuckles to guide the blade.

For the slaw, I julienned the root into 1½-inch by 1∕8-inch pieces. Whew! Talk about work. A mandoline, grater or a food processor would make short work of this, however. Next time. Celery root flesh is cream-colored with white speckles and a few flecks the color of dulce de leche. Because it discolors, use a spurt of lemon juice mixed with water to keep cut pieces from turning brown; simply drain and pat them dry before adding a simple mayonnaise and sour cream dressing. A scattering of black cracked pepper across the top made a pretty presentation.

But don’t let preparation challenges keep you from celery root. Recipes abound for this underutilized root vegetable, and its concentrated flavor and remarkable texture should make for good, hearty eating in the chilly months ahead.

At Atlas Restaurant, chef Michael Roberts uses grated celery root from Berger Bluff Farm to coat salmon.

Celery Root and Horseradish-Crusted Wild Salmon With Crème Fraîche-Apple Cider Sauce
Courtesy of Atlas Restaurant’s Michael Roberts

6 servings

1 cup unsalted butter, softened to room temperature
½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. finely grated fresh celery root
½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. finely grated fresh horseradish
Juice from 2 medium lemons
¼ cup fresh plain bread crumbs
½ tsp. fresh ground black pepper
½ tsp. kosher salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper
6 6- to 8-oz. skinless Alaskan salmon fillets

• Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
• Place the butter, celery root and horseradish in an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix until well combined.
• Add the lemon juice, bread crumbs, pepper, salt and cayenne and mix until a soft paste forms; set aside.
• Season both sides of the salmon fillets with salt and pepper.
• Apply a ¼-inch layer of the celery root mixture over the top of the salmon fillets.
• Roast the fillets for 8 to 12 minutes or until desired doneness.
• Ladle a pool of sauce (recipe below) on the serving plate.
• Top with baked salmon fillets and serve.

Crème Fraîche-Apple Cider Sauce

1½ cups crème fraîche*
1∕4 cup apple cider vinegar
½ tsp. salt
½ tsp. fresh ground black pepper

• Mix all ingredients to combine.

* You can find crème fraîche premade at specialty grocery stores. To make your own, combine 2 cups of whipping cream with 4 Tbsp. of buttermilk. Let stand, at room temperature, for 8 to 24 hours until the mixture is very thick. Stir, then refrigerate for up to 10 days.