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Dawdle Over Coffee in Comfort at Sofia Bistro
• by Lisa Tebbe - Photo by Allyson Mace
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Sometimes you’re just in the mood for a laid-back, hassle-free kind of Sunday brunch – nothing too fancy, but someplace where you can relax, enjoy good food and not feel rushed to leave.
Sofia Bistro is that place. Nestled in the neighborhood that borders Clayton and University City, Sofia Bistro is the latest incarnation on the northwest corner of Jackson and Pershing avenues. (Some may fondly remember Black Tie Gourmet when it occupied this spot years ago; most recently the corner housed La Piazza). Sofia opened in the spring and serves Mediterranean fare for weekday lunch and for dinner. The Sunday brunch menu is on the short side but includes variations on the classic eggs Benedict (Florentine, Irish and atop a crab cake), french toast, omelets and frittatas, all at reasonable prices. Although it has no Sunday liquor license, it offers espresso drinks as well as some darn good coffee blended by Chauvin Coffee Co.
Inside, red roses dot the white linen tablecloths, sumptuous red suede couches line one wall, and jazz drifts softly by, inviting you to come in, settle down and stay awhile, which we did, drinking cup after cup of that coffee. Outside, a dozen or so tables fill the patio, bordered by trees strung with twinkle lights, which created a peaceful, private al fresco dining experience.
I’ve had dinner at Sofia Bistro on a few occasions, and the staff has always been very welcoming and accommodating. The service seems to have gotten smoother in the past month, but even the kinks were bearable because the servers are so pleasant.
Irish eggs were a twist on eggs Benedict, with perfectly poached eggs crowning smoked salmon on a crouton (crostini, which was a nice alternative to the usual English muffin). The fresh herb sauce was light in color and flecked with basil, its velvety texture complementing the saltiness of the salmon. Normally brunch dishes are served with fresh fruit, but the kitchen had run out and instead served a wonderful Greek salad with crisp greens, bits of feta, red onion, red pepper, cucumber and oregano. The ham and cheese omelet was fairly standard – fluffy, nicely browned, filled with green onions, chunks of ham and Monterey Jack cheese. (Menu regret kicked in when I quickly realized I should’ve gone for the wild mushroom or the shrimp and mango omelet, which I’m planning to try
next time.)
Another visit brought the grilled salmon and goat cheese frittata. The salmon was smoked, which was fine, but not what I had expected when I read “grilled.” Green onion and goat cheese balanced the flavor in the frittata, which came with roasted potatoes (a bit dry) and fruit (cantaloupe, honeydew and pineapple). French toast was four pieces (that is, two slices each cut in half – we could’ve certainly polished off a third) of Texas toast served with powdered sugar and thick syrup. It wasn’t the real stuff, but it was probably the same syrup many of us grew up with on our breakfast tables.
Sophia’s brunch menu also includes a garden veggie and feta frittata, mish-mash (scrambled eggs with peppers, onions and tomatoes), salads and some lighter sandwiches. My only complaint: The orange juice, though it was just $2 for a large glass, was not fresh-squeezed and was served with ice.
On both trips the atmosphere was completely comfortable and unhurried. Although the service is pretty speedy and food arrived quickly, we never had the sense that we were expected to leave as soon as we were finished eating. Sofia Bistro encourages dawdling – whether it’s on the shady patio or on the comfy couches sipping another cup of that great coffee.
When I overheard, “I think we found a nice new spot,” from the couple at the next table, I couldn’t have agreed more.
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