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Sunday in the Park with Madeleine  by Lisa Tebbe - Photo by Allyson Mace Printable Version
Posted On: 09/02/2005E-mail This To A Friend!

Ah – Sundays in the park. They are a precious gift, and one most of us probably don’t indulge in often enough. Café Madeleine may change that. With Tower Grove Park as its beautiful backdrop, Café Madeleine is an idyllic spot for Sunday brunch. It’s set in the Piper Palm House, a historic greenhouse constructed in 1878 amid lush palms, ferns and lilies with sunlight pouring in through the tall arched windows.

The Butler’s Pantry serves as the exclusive caterer for the Piper Palm House and does a lovely job with brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Everything looks so delicious you’ll find it difficult to decide where to start.

A tiered fresh fruit stand offering ripe strawberries and cherries, pineapple, honeydew, cantaloupe, blueberries and blackberries serves as the colorful centerpiece. Pastries, muffins, scones, crumb cakes and tea breads are a good place to begin your meal. But don’t forget to save for room for moist bread pudding with a sticky, sweet caramel sauce or madeleines – that French classic – light, spongy, shell-shaped cookie/cakes dusted with powdered sugar (if you’re lucky, they’ll have chocolate madeleines as well).

The salad selections were fresh, inventive and numerous. Favorites included Ziggy’s Waldorf salad, a light salad with the tartness of dried cherries. The jícama and watermelon salad with cilantro was crunchy and cool, perfect for a warm summer morning. Savory cheesecakes included a wild mushroom and smoked salmon served with flatbread (Caution: If you miss the description “savory” and take a mouthful expecting a light, sweet dessert, you’ll be in for a shock). And of course it’s hard not to go crazy on sliced tomatoes drizzled with olive oil in season.

Brunchers are often tempted by the ubiquitous omelet bar – and this is one you’ll not want to bypass. Choose from multicolored peppers, onions, tomatoes, ham, bacon, spinach and cheeses, all cooked just right by a friendly omelet master. At the same station, you’ll also find its signature French toast made with raisin bread and served with warm maple syrup. Italian salsicce with roasted potatoes was also quite good, the sausage sweet and spicy and the potatoes perfectly browned.

The entrée table was just as tempting. The chicken-artichoke pasta was tossed in a pesto cream sauce lightly tinted with pea purée. Tandoori pork with peach chutney was a bit dry but flavorful nevertheless. The chicken skewers with peanut sauce were wonderful. Grilled asparagus was heaped onto a center platter, and though tasty, on one visit was overpowered by a smoky flavor and could have used a little less olive oil. The beef fajitas seemed a little out of their league and were easy to pass up.

Specialty coffee drinks include caffé latte and espresso, but it’s the Coffee Madeleine that steals the show. Half hot chocolate and half coffee, topped with real whipped cream and cinnamon, this drink is smooth and rich, decadent and definitely worth trying (especially at just $2). Café Madeleine also serves fresh-squeezed orange juice ($2) and makes a delightful mimosa ($4.50).

At $16.95 for adults and $8.95 for children, the price is reasonable. There’s really no rush to leave, with newspapers available for reading; however, the tables for four are small and seem crowded if there are extra plates. Service wasn’t the most attentive, with rare water or coffee refills, but the setting makes up for it.

Whether seated inside near the softly tinkling fountain or outside next to the tranquil lily pond, you’re sure to enjoy this unique brunch venue. Why not make an afternoon of it? After brunch, stroll through the gardens, relax by the lily ponds, read in the grass or take a docent-guided tour or carriage ride (call the park office at 314.771.2679 to arrange). Enjoy your Sunday in the park.

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Brunchers are often tempted by the ubiquitous omelet bar – and this is one you’ll not want to bypass. Choose from multicolored peppers, onions, tomatoes, ham, bacon, spinach and cheeses, all cooked just right by a friendly omelet master.

Café Madeleine at The Piper Palm House

4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis
314.575.5658 (reservation line)

Sundays only ? 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.


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