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Seafood takes center stage at Bristol
• by Lisa Tebbe - Photo by Jonathan Swegle
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Some Sundays you feel like something a little more sophisticated for brunch. Maybe it’s time to treat yourself, or it’s a special occasion and you’re looking for something a little bit more upscale. Or maybe you’ve got a serious taste for some seafood. Whether it’s one – or all – of the above, Bristol Bar and Grill fits the bill.
The original Bristol on Olive Boulevard in Creve Coeur is a longtime St. Louis favorite for seafood. Its sister location opened in March 2004 in O’Fallon, Mo., near Highway 40/Interstate 64 and Winghaven Boulevard. That location’s Sunday brunch buffet ($17.95 for adults – coffee, tea or juice included – and $8.95 for children 4 to 10) has plenty of items to please the palate, but seafood again takes center stage.
The meal begins with mini-cinnamon-raisin drop biscuits, served warm out of the oven with glaze dripping down the sides. Watch out … these delicious little treats will get you and before you know it, you’ll have eaten three or four while enjoying coffee served in large mugs.
Cold brunch items are arrayed on the bar: fresh fruit salad, cheeses, pastries, muffins, sliced tomatoes with balsamic vinegar and basil. And, of course, there’s chilled shrimp and smoked fish – salmon, bluefish, mackerel – with all the accoutrements. It’s hard to not overdo it here.
Egg dishes on buffets can often end up cold, but on both visits, the eggs Florentine were nice and warm. The poached eggs were nestled in spinach and topped with hollandaise sauce. The biscuits (again, a drop biscuit – you can purchase the mix to take home) were served alongside gravy with plenty of sausage.
The crab-and-shrimp stuffing was moist and incredibly flavorful, with peppers and celery throughout. Fried popcorn shrimp were lightly breaded and not greasy, with a peppery kick. Bristol offers cioppino, the classic seafood stew. Its version is filled with shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams and fish, simmered in a tomato broth with the distinctive flavor of red wine and herbs.
For the non-seafood-lover, there’s roast beef and ham, sautéed vegetables, penne pasta with chicken and real mashed potatoes. Rounding out the breakfast fare are Belgian waffles served with assorted toppings (chocolate chips, pecans, strawberries, syrups – the possibilities are endless) and made-to-order omelets with nine additions to choose from (spinach, bacon, onions, peppers, cheeses, etc.).
Dessert offerings include homemade carrot cake, cookies and brownies. Cheese blintzes with blueberry sauce were a little underwhelming (not much flavor and on the soggy side). The tarts – key lime and chocolate – were more graham cracker crust than filling. The pecan pie was not too sweet and was enhanced only by a little chocolate drizzle. On both visits, we missed the bread pudding with rum crème anglaise – perhaps a sign of its popularity. The crowning glory is a 4-foot chocolate fountain surrounded by bananas, strawberries, pineapple, marshmallows and other assorted goodies for dipping. Although the chocolate isn’t exceptional, it’s a fun way to end the meal.
The décor is decidedly maritime but tastefully executed. The fish motif is carried out in the murals, artwork and upholstery. The main dining room is light and open, with high beamed ceilings, while the second room is a bit cozier, warmed by a fireplace. White paper (reminiscent of hospital gowns) covers the crisp white tablecloths. Their function is unclear, but maybe it’s to keep the chocolate from staining the linen.
Servers are friendly and keep the coffee and cinnamon biscuits coming and the empty plates going. The chefs are happy to describe the dishes on the buffet (labeling them might help).
No matter the reason you make the Sunday drive out west, Bristol is worth the trip. You’ll surely get your fill of seafood.
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