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Mélange’s brunch medley really sings
• by Lisa Tebbe - Photo by Jonathan Swegle
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As its melodious name suggests, Mélange offers a medley of menu items to suit nearly every taste. Whether you’re craving huevos rancheros or country-fried steak, Benedicts or omelets, French toast or griddle cakes, sandwiches or burgers, Mélange has you covered – and does it with fresh food that’s well-prepared.
Occupying a former auto showroom on North Euclid Avenue in the Central West End, Mélange is sophisticated yet comfortable. The atmosphere is just as cozy for solo regulars reading the paper as it is for couples on first dates, groups celebrating special occasions or book-club gatherings. A row of banquettes faces the floor-to-ceiling windows, which flood the room with natural light. You’d expect a space with such high ceilings to be noisy, but even when it’s full, the carpet mutes much of the sound.
On our first visit, the friendly hostess invited us to sit in the bar while we waited for our table. There we sampled a selection of “Bubbles” ($6 to $7) and “Marys” ($6). The former range from standard mimosas to a peach Bellini (sparkling wine with peach purée and peach liqueur). The Grand Mimosa is a smooth version made with Grand Marnier, while the Cham Cham gets its black raspberry flavor from Chambord. On the “Mary” side, selections include the traditional version as well as “Bloody Bull” (with beef bouillon) and “Bloody Caesar” (with Clamato). I love my Bloody Marys thick and tangy with a healthy dose of horseradish and a generous garnish.
Mélange’s house mix was too thin for my taste, with an overabundance of horseradish and a skimpy celery stick.
The best of these cocktails are hard to resist, and the food is equally enticing. Omelets, made with three farm-fresh eggs, feature creative combinations – no Denver or Western omelets here! Roasted chicken, asparagus, ham and Gruyère cheese were folded into the Euclid Omelet ($12), which was topped with a delicate beurre blanc. The freshness came through with each bite. Omelets are served with a choice of grits or hash browns (neither of which was overly impressive) and choice of bread (a good chance to use the cute jelly caddy on each table).
A side of biscuits and gravy is a must. The homemade white gravy is big on peppery sausage, the perfect contrast to the tender, golden-brown biscuits.
After learning the crab and langoustine Benedict ($12) was a customer favorite, I had to try it. Nice, thick English muffins were split and toasted, then topped with a small mound of fresh crab and langoustines. Similar to a crab cake, it had just a touch of breading lightly seasoned with parsley and chives. The egg was poached and, as it should, the yolk flowed over the shellfish. I only wished there had been more of the crab mixture to soak up the egg and hollandaise.
If you’re a pancake-lover, try the Dutch Baby ($8). It’s filled with varying ingredients (on our visit, it was fresh berries) and baked (instead of griddled) until it puffs up like a soufflé. The edges were crispy, and maple syrup mixed with the berries to make an incredible fruity topping.
You’ll also find the traditional French sandwich, the croque monsieur ($10). Ham and Gruyère are piled between thick (almost too thick!) slices of brioche, then dipped in an egg batter and grilled golden brown. It’s a decadent breakfast sandwich, both sweet and savory. Its female counterpart, croque madame ($12), is the same, topped with a fried egg.
Coffee is from Kaldi’s and was a bit weak for my taste. The next time, I’ll opt for the French press ($4). Brunch is served until 2:30 p.m., and I found it’s best to go after 1 p.m., when things seem to slow down a bit. With the warmer weather now here, you can also enjoy patio dining.
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