|
|
 |
|
Indulge your civilized side with specialty teas and superlative pastries
• by By Lisa Tebbe • Photo by Josh Monken
|
 |
|
|
One glance at The London Tea Room’s cheeky menu lets you know this isn’t some stuffy place for a spot of tea. Instead, this mod new establishment on Washington Avenue (located just off the lobby of the Ely Walker Loft building) is just the place for both tea connoisseurs and amateurs.
Stepping through the doors brought an instant sense of calm. It was a respite, sophisticated and contemporary, with light wood floors, enormous windows, walls of sky blue and lime green and cool, smooth marble-topped tables. It all seemed so civilized.
Saunter up to the counter and let the number of tea selections in glass jars lining the massive hutch enthrall you. Admire the lovely teapots, cups and the mouthwatering assortment of fresh baked goods from pastry chef Allyson Lake. (Some are gluten-free.) A tea menu describes the various characteristics of the offerings – eleven black, seven green, two oolong and a white variety – as well as a rooibos (an African herbal tea), three herbals, two tisanes (herbal infusions) and a chai. Many of the teas are certified fair trade and organic (noted by the FTO designation on the menu); all are chosen by Anna Myers, a U.K. native, who manages the tea room side of the business. Her mother, Pat Richardson, heads up the adjoining furniture store, English Living.
A limited breakfast menu is served all day. A serving of two crêpes, folded into a small wedge, was more of an appetizer than an entrée. While the ham and cheese variety was quite tasty, the crêpes did look pretty lonely on the plate. Typically, a couple different quiches are available; on one visit it was spinach and caramelized onion, with the flaky, deep-dish crust serving as a perfect vehicle for the rich egg custard. For a healthier alternative, there’s organic yogurt and
crunchy granola.
If you’re leaning more toward lunch, sandwiches, soups and salads are available from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. A generous serving of cream of asparagus soup was topped with two asparagus spears; its flavor was good, but it would’ve been even better had it been warmer. The cream of tomato soup was a hit: The smooth texture and rich tomato flavor made it satisfying, especially when enjoyed with a grilled cheese sandwich (it’s OK to dunk!). A crowd favorite, the grilled cheese combined the tanginess of goat cheese with the sharpness of Cheddar and nuttiness of Gruyère.
But the tea’s the real story here. Order at the counter and have a seat. Soon, you’ll be served a steaming pot of tea, a strainer for your cup, a tiny spoon, a miniature pitcher of cream, thinly sliced lemon and sugar packets.
The trickiest part is deciding which tea to order, and the staff can help guide you. The Monks Blend, a black tea infused with grenadine and vanilla, smelled like incense wafting from the cup and tasted slightly sweet and comforting. Lapsang Souchong was Winston Churchill’s favored tea; it took me a minute to realize that the strong, smoky scent of a campfire was emanating from the teapot, not the kitchen. A sip proved it was mellower than its scent. The Special Rare Darjeeling is a classic, perfect for those just starting out.
For the more adventurous, there’s the FTO green chai, which was absolutely sublime. A blend of green tea, ginger, spice and vanilla, this had a light, clean taste that was refreshing. There’s also a traditional masala chai with a gorgeous appearance and the deeply spicy aroma of cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns and more, reminiscent of a warm fire on a cold winter’s night.
The natural accompaniment to tea is scones. Similar to a biscuit here in the States, scones are made with basic ingredients. These are the true British variety – not too sweet and round instead of triangular, with a golden-brown crust. Although I found The London Tea Room’s too dense and doughy for my taste (I prefer them lighter and crumbly), my friends, who normally skip scones, devoured them. The golden raisin scones were a bit dry, but it was nothing a touch of Devonshire cream and jam couldn’t fix; on another visit, the mixed berry scones were moister.
Lake’s thoughtful creations also complement the tea. Lemon drizzle cake was light and moist with a bright citrus flavor and a crunchy sugar topping. Cherry-almond teacakes had a subtle almond flavor with a whole cherry (mind the pit), stem and all. Cream cheese cookies with pecans were the perfect bite-sized treat. A vanilla-coconut cupcake’s fluffy frosting was dusted with shredded coconut.
For those who need their morning joe, The London Tea Room serves coffee and a selection of espresso drinks. While I’m not ready to give up my morning latte, the relaxed enjoyment of a pot of tea was a sweet, simple pleasure.
The Real Deal Archive
View Complete Archive
|
|
|
|
