Bright and airy Geyer House fills a jazzy, history-filled niche • by By Lisa Tebbe • Photo by Jamie DeVillez
Posted On: 10/01/2007 E-mail This To A Friend!

There’s something about the words “jazz brunch” that I find instantly appealing. Kicking back, enjoying some good live music, food and company is an experience I relish – but options are limited. Now, Geyer House in Soulard fills that niche nicely; for the next several weeks you can catch guitarist John Farrar performing laid-back jazz standards on Sunday mornings.

Housed in a century-old building, Geyer House is part of a complex at the corner of Ninth Street and Geyer Avenue that includes the live blues venue 1860 Saloon as well as the Hardshell Café, which serves Cajun specialties and seafood. For lunch and dinner, Geyer House offers steaks, seafood and pasta. On Sundays, for $13.95 (which includes coffee, tea, milk, soda or juice), it’s an all-you-can-eat buffet from 10 a.m. to
3 p.m. While the selection isn’t huge, it is tasty and reasonably priced. Add live music to the mix, and it’s a nice way to spend a Sunday.

Geyer House is clean and bright with a gleaming wood beamed ceiling, deep eggplant-colored walls and a large brick fireplace dominating one end of the room (which should prove extra cozy in the months ahead). Large windows let in plenty of light and allow a great view of the neighborhood. The place is practically a history lesson with maps, old Globe-Democrat covers and vintage postcards (check out the old photos of ladies and gentlemen in Benton Park).

While the pancakes weren't especially memorable, on one visit bananas were layered between French toast for a sweet treat and the egg dishes were better than expected on a buffet. Scrambled eggs with onions and peppers – something that I might typically skip – were fluffy and good.

And eggs Benedict, normally tricky on a buffet, was successful. The English muffin was still toasty, the egg yolk was runny (often it’s hard on buffets) and the hollandaise was from scratch, with just a dollop, instead of a huge glob, which was plenty. I initially wondered if it was from a mix, although it wasn’t lumpy or shockingly yellow – it just seemed to have that “tang,” similar to a Knorr mix. The Benedicts are made in small batches, so they’re hot, and each was topped with sliced black olives.

Biscuits and gravy were inconsistent. On one visit, the gravy was thin with no sausage or flavor. On our second visit, the gravy was thicker and peppery, but still no sausage.

Lunch items leaned more toward classic comfort food. Catfish nuggets were fried, with the cornmeal coating remaining crisp, not greasy. Carved pork loin was moist, but could have used a sauce. Since Geyer House prepares its sauces daily, this would be an easy fix.

The carved beef was delicious – still juicy and pink. It’s marinated in a spiced vinaigrette, then topped with a pepper and garlic rub that creates a crust that seals in the juices. The ham was also carved, thick and sweet. Creamy macaroni and cheese was the perfect accompaniment, or opt for the mashed potatoes with just enough lumps so you know they’re real. Vegetables are from the Soulard Farmers’ Market; our visit featured sautéed yellow squash and zucchini, and salad with house-made dressing.

Desserts aren’t on the buffet, but rather served at the end of your meal. On one visit we had to pass on the mango cheesecake because we’d stuffed ourselves. With this in mind, on our second visit, I left room for the bread pudding with apples and peaches. It was moist and cinnamon-y, perfect for a fall day.

Coffee is good, judging by my six-cup consumption. Or, if you’re in the mood, the Bloody Marys were tangy with Worcestershire and a salted rim, garnished with a lemon. At $3 a pop, it was a great deal.

Service was friendly, fast and attentive, and co-owner Tom Gullickson keeps an eye out behind the buffet line, offering explanations when necessary. The buffet looks scaled back, but the food is prepared in small batches, a less-is-more approach: less waste and more hot, fresh food.

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