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  SAUCE MAGAZINE
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May 03, 2016
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Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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The Scoop: James Beard award eludes Willmann and Nashan

May 2nd, 2016

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Local restaurant enthusiasts hoping one of its own would take gold again this year were disappointed as a James Beard Foundation Award has eluded two St. Louis chefs. Kevin Nashan and Kevin Willmann were two of five finalists in the Best Chef: Midwest category, with the top prize going to Paul Berglund of The Bachelor Farmer in Minneapolis.

Nashan is the chef-owner of Sidney Street Café, and Willmann is the chef-owner of Farmhaus. This was Nashan’s second time being named a finalist, while it was Willmann’s first finalist nod.

Meatless Monday: Strawberry, Melon and Avocado Salad

May 2nd, 2016

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The first sweet red strawberries have arrived at the farmers market, and we’re welcoming them with a vibrant salad. Sliced ripe strawberries, bright cantaloupe and creamy avocados are tossed with feta, peppery arugula and sweet, minty vinaigrette for a fresh bite and playful texture. Get the recipe here.

Extra Sauce: In case you missed it…

April 29th, 2016

From new restaurants in Benton Park and Crestwood to new bars downtown and on Cherokee Street, here’s what when down in the St. Louis food scene, in case you missed it.

 

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1. A taste of Alsace, France is coming to the corner of Lemp Avenue and Lynch Street later this year when Hommage opens its doors. Owner D.J. Huchzermeier – most recently the general manager of The Purple Martin – plans to open the eatery at 2800 Lemp Ave., in Benton Park as a tribute to the historical significance of St. Louis.

2. Fun and games are coming to downtown as barcade Start Bar is slated to open in June at 1000 Spruce St.

 

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3. Pint Size Bakery has moved up the street to 3133 Watson Road in Lindenwood Park. The new, 1,800-square foot location opened for business Tuesday, April 26.

4. Just three weeks after Art Bar on Cherokee Street closed its doors, Tom Halaska has announced he will be the general manager at DeMun Oyster Bar effective April 25.

 

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5. A taste of Mother Russia is coming to Cherokee Street when owner Tatyana Telnikova opens Propaganda in the former ArtBar St. Louis space at 2723 Cherokee St.

6. Rise and shine, Crestwood. Elevated breakfast is coming to the corner of Watson and Grant roads. Yolklore will open at 8958 Watson Road this summer.

By the Book: Grillhouse by Ross Dobson

April 29th, 2016

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The last book in this grill-off isn’t a grilling compendium, but it does have recipes that move effortlessly from indoor grill pans to my trusty mini Weber kettle. Grillhouse: Gastropub at Home by Ross Dobson features elevated pub fare with relatively few ingredients and simple techniques.

The whole grilled chicken recipe I chose presented a few hiccups along the way, but turned out beautifully. Be sure to take note of the skill level at your grocery store butcher counter. Rather than butterflied or spatchcocked, my bird was handed over split down the breast (Fortunately, it cooked just as well). The chicken is simply prepared, stuffed with a lemon-garlic-rosemary salt before meeting the grill.

The recipe had impeccable timing. With less than 30 minutes on a hot grill, the chicken was cooked through completely. The crisp skin was imbued with a smokiness only charcoal can add, and every bite of white and dark meat was tender and juicy, with just a touch of lemon and rosemary. The only recipe confusion came with what seems to be an unnecessary flip on the grill before drizzling the bird with garlic-infused olive oil. Grilled chicken doesn’t get much easier than this.

Skill level: Easy. No fancy techniques or obscure ingredients required here. Basic knife skills and your average grocery store will provide all you need.
This book is for: Those who appreciate a proper pint while they grill – fans of Dressel’s, The Scottish Arms and other true gastropubs.
Other recipes to try: Stout beef burgers, fillet steaks with mushroom and whiskey sauce, crispy-skinned trout
The verdict: While last week’s steak au poivre was decadent and tender, Grillhouse needs no fancy sauces to take it over the top – just garlic, lemon, rosemary and smoke. We have our champion.

 

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Butterflied Chicken with Rosemary & Garlic
4 servings

12 cloves garlic, left whole and unpeeled
1/3 cup olive oil
1 Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
¼ cup lemon juice
1 tsp. sea salt flakes, plus extra for sprinkling
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 free-range chickens, about 3 lb. 5 oz. each, butterflied

• Peel and finely chop 4 cloves of garlic and place in a small saucepan with the olive oil over medium heat. When the garlic starts to sizzle, add the rosemary and lemon zest and cook for 2 minutes or until the rosemary is aromatic. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Pour the oil through a fine sieve placed over a bowl, pressing to extract as much oil as possible. Stir the lemon juice into the oil and set aside. Transfer the solids to a small bowl, add the salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and combine well.
• Spread the garlic salt mixture all over the chicken skin, rubbing some under the breast skin. Set aside for 30 minutes.
• Lightly crush the remaining unpeeled garlic with the flat side of a knife.
• Preheat a chargrill to high.
• When smoking hot, place the chickens on the grill, skin side down; reduce the heat to low and cook for 15 minutes, ensuring the chicken sizzles constantly on the griddle, using a metal spatula to press down firmly on the chickens every 5 minutes or so. Turn the chickens over. Scatter the whole garlic cloves on and around the chicken and cook for another 10 minutes, again pressing down with the metal spatula. Turn the chickens over. Quickly stir the olive oil and lemon mixture and brush on the skin side of the chickens. Turn over again and cook for just a minute. Remove and cover loosely with foil to rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

Reprinted with permission from Lyons Press

Tweet Beat: The week’s best tweets from #STL foodies

April 29th, 2016

Are you following us on Twitter? Come on, get Saucy @saucemag

 

 

Think you should be on this list? Follow us and let us know @saucemag

First Look: Pint Size Bakery’s new location in Lindenwood Park

April 28th, 2016

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Pint Size Bakery has moved up the street to 3133 Watson Road in Lindenwood Park. The new, 1,800-square foot location opened for business Tuesday, April 26. As The Scoop reported in December 2015, the new location gives Pint Size more more than twice the space of the original.

Co-owners Christy Augustin and Nancy Boehm aren’t feeling too nostalgic for the 750-square-foot namesake bakery they left behind. “If we were moving out of the neighborhood, we’d be sad,” Augustin said. “We can have dance parties in the walk-in now.” More space means taking on more custom orders and expanding their bakery offerings with items like seasonal teacakes and a new oatmeal-chocolate chip-walnut cookie. Augustin said they’ve had that recipe for a while, but lacked the space and time to offer it before now.

Augustin and Boehm designed the space themselves and spent four months painting walls and laying tile. “The baked goods have always been reflective of us, but now the space is as well,” Augustin said. Customers can sit at a couple vintage enameled tables and enjoy cookies, scones and cakes served on vintage tea plates Boehm originally collected for centerpieces at her wedding.

Pint Size is now open Tuesday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Saturday to 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Here’s a first look at what to expect when you visit the new home of Pint Size Bakery:

 

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-photos by Michelle Volansky 

Drink This Weekend Edition: Beers from Logboat Brewing

April 28th, 2016

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While our local scene keeps blossoming, beer culture is growing rapidly across Missouri, and it’s producing some phenomenal breweries like Logboat Brewing Co., which launched in The Lou this month.

The Columbia, Missouri brewery opened its doors to the public in spring 2014, and in two short years, the Logboat team has earned national attention for its delicious suds. Its Mamoot Mild won a silver medal at the 2014 Great American Beer Festival in the English-style mild category. The following year at GABF, its Bear Hair took gold in the Belgian-style blonde or pale ale category, and Mamoot earned a bronze medal for the English-style mild once again.

If you happen to be in Columbia this summer, be sure to swing by Logboat’s tasting room, featuring a killer outdoor space and knowledgeable staff. In the meantime, get to know this brewery and the people behind it at three St. Louis area-events this weekend:

1. Thursday, April 28: Logboat tap takeover and a surprise cask release to celebrate the first St. Charles County Craft Beer Week at Mike’s Grill & Tap in O’Fallon, Missouri starting at 5 p.m.

2. Friday, April 29: Another tap takeover and a surprise cask release at Whiskey Ring on Cherokee Street starting at 4 p.m.

3. Saturday, April 30: A celebration of all things canned beer, the Global Brew Can Jam in Rock Hill features Logboat, as well as 4 Hands Brewing, Odell Brewing, Ballast Point Brewing and Oskar Blues Brewery. This event kicks off 11 a.m. at Global Brew in Rock Hill.

Can’t make it this weekend? Keep these flagship Logboat brews stocked in the beer fridge this summer and be on the lookout for fun, seasonal releases.

1. Snapper IPA: A slightly dank aroma and a light, caramel malt backbone give way to and highlight a palate nuanced with resin, pine, citrus and stone fruit. Medium body and balance make this 7.2-percent beer incredibly crushable in the can.

2. Lookout Pale Ale: If the can art doesn’t sell it (It is the most rad can art ever.), then the perfect balance in the hops and malt will. This 5.5-percent American pale ale is refreshingly crisp, clean and citrusy with just a touch of floral.

3. Shiphead Ginger Wheat: If you’re looking for your summer patio friend, you have found it. With a light and fluffy body, this 5.2-percent beer has a touch of lemony brightness and is spiced with Peruvian ginger.

Just Five: Matzo Brei

April 28th, 2016

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Matzo brei is a traditional dish during Passover, but it is also a practical dish regularly requested in my home. There are more versions of this dish than you can shake a kugel at, but my favorite incorporates the flavors of traditional bagels and lox (smoked salmon, red onion and capers).

As my oldest child prepares to go off to college, I’ve realized how important it is to send her out there with a few basic dishes in her repertoire. This dish is a great protein bomb with the added benefit of some omega-3s from the salmon (brain food!). Gild the lily and serve it with a scoop of sour cream and some fresh chopped dill on top, if desired. Chag sameach!

 

Matzo Brei
4 servings

4 unsalted matzos
8 eggs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 red onion, thinly sliced
3 Tbsp. butter
4 oz. smoked salmon or lox, cut into bite-sized pieces
3 Tbsp. capers

• Place the matzos under running water for 20 seconds, until beginning to soften but are not mushy or falling apart. Break into bite-sized pieces and set aside.
• In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
• Place the onions in a large, dry skillet over high heat and quickly toss until they start to brown, about 2 minutes. Add the butter and saute until the butter just starts brown and smells nutty, about 3 minutes.
• Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the matzo, stirring to coat with butter, then add the eggs. Stir constantly until the eggs start to set, about 3 minutes. Add the salmon and cook 1 minute. Sprinkle the capers over the matzo brei and serve immediately.

The Scoop: Propaganda to open in former Art Bar Space

April 28th, 2016

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A taste of Mother Russia is coming to Cherokee Street when owner Tatyana Telnikova opens Propaganda in the former ArtBar St. Louis space at 2723 Cherokee St. Open only on Fridays and Saturdays beginning May 7, Propaganda will host its grand opening and around June 1, as reported by St. Louis Magazine.

For Telnikova, an immigrant from Russia and owner of HandleBar, Propaganda represents a personal invitation to customers to experience the Russian hospitality she remembers and extends to friends here in the States.

“This is close to home for me,” Telnikova said. “I really enjoy certain parts of my heritage. We had friends over very often and would offer everyone food and drinks no matter who they are or what time of day it is.”

Telnikova plans to serve Russian beer along with local selections, as well as whiskey, mezcal and tequila. There will be house-infused vodkas like her mother’s horseradish and honey vodka, which she said is sipped for health when the two have lunch. Propaganda will offer snacks, possibly prepared at HandleBar like pierogi or bread and spreads. Telnikova said she isn’t ruling out expanding the food menu in the future.

HandleBar general manager Keeley Kromat will also manage Propaganda, emphasizing the culture of hospitality and “meaningful drinking” that Telnikova hopes to share. To that end, thirsty patrons may look forward to a nightly toast. “A chance to stop and think about something that’s important to you,” Telnikova said. “A toast to community or family or those who are not with us anymore.”

 

The Scoop: Hommage to open in Benton Park

April 27th, 2016

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A taste of Alsace, France is coming to the corner of Lemp Avenue and Lynch Street later this year when Hommage opens its doors. Owner D.J. Huchzermeier – most recently the general manager of The Purple Martin – plans to open the eatery at 2800 Lemp Ave., in Benton Park as a tribute to the historical significance of St. Louis.

“We’re focusing on old, old St. Louis,” said Huchzermeier. “Everything will tell a story, a pleasant haunting for St. Louis. It’s reverence of River City.”

Drawing on our city’s French and German roots, the food at Hommage will be Alsatian, which features French cuisine with a German influence. “It will be food that pairs well with beer, but also elegant,” Huchzermeier said. “I see sausage and sauerkraut but also tart flambé .”

Huchzermeier said he could not name either the chef or the bar manager at this time, but he described the beverage program as an even split between primarily local beer, French and Alsatian wine and culinary cocktails. Hommage will seat around 50 diners inside and an additional 50 outside. In the patio area will also be a dedicated space for the French version of bocce ball called pétanque. The property will also feature a greenhouse and raised beds, which will provide produce for the restaurant.

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