Hello Stranger | Login | Create Account
 
 
 
 
 
  SAUCE MAGAZINE
|
Mar 27, 2015
|
Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
|
SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
Email | Text-size: A | A | A

Drink This Weekend Edition

Drink This Weekend Edition: Malt-tease-Fashioned

Thursday, March 26th, 2015

032615_beersyrup

 

Combine your love for beer and the harder stuff by using homemade beer syrup in a cocktail recipe. Use a big-flavored, hoppy beer, such as an ESB or IPA, to maximize flavor. The syrup complements a galaxy of cocktails, like the Tom Collins, Sazerac, pisco sour and Old-Fashioned, including the reimagined one here.

 
Beer Syrup
6 ounces

12 oz. hoppy beer, such as an ESB or IPA
6 oz. sugar

• In a small saucepan over medium heat, simmer the beer until reduced by half.
• Add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Remove from the heat and let cool. Syrup will keep, refrigerated, up to 1 month.

 

Malt-Tease-Fashioned
1 serving

2 oz. Spirits of St. Louis Regatta Bay hopped gin
½ oz. beer syrup
4 dashes Bittermens Hopped Grapefruit Bitters
2 grapefruit twists

• Combine the gin, beer syrup and bitters in a stirring glass with ice. Squeeze 1 grapefruit twist over the glass to release the oils, then drop it into the glass. Stir and strain into a rocks glass filled with ice. Garnish with the remaining grapefruit twist.

 

-photo by Carmen Troesser

Drink This Weekend Edition: Schlafly AIPA

Friday, March 20th, 2015

031915_dtwe

 

Despite a seeming proliferation of hop haters, IPAs are consistently the top-selling craft beer style in the U.S. An India Pale Ale is generally brewed with pale malts and has a strong hop presence. A few years ago, Schlafly decided to showcase the different IPA styles in a series of special release beers, beginning with its AIPA. This year’s version has recently hit shelves in all its hoppy glory.

American IPAs are generally drier and are brewed with more intense, American-grown hops that offer more floral, piney, citrus-y or tropical characteristics than their English-style counterparts. Schlafly AIPA fits the bill with a bombardment of Amarillo, Centennial and Simcoe hops from the Pacific Northwest that give pleasant citrus bitterness, while its grapefruit aroma is reminiscent of many West Coast IPAs. Though hop-forward, the malt bill stands up nicely to balance out the bitterness, making it a perfect pairing for a spicy curry or a juicy burger.

When Schlafly first introduced AIPA, it was draft only. After the masses clamored for more, it was bottled in limited supply. Thankfully today, Schlafly AIPA is pretty easy to find on draft and in bottles at better beer stores, grocery stores and beer bars until August. Get out and see what all of the hoppy buzz is about.

Drink This Weekend Edition: Square One’s Social Devyat

Friday, March 13th, 2015

031315_dtwe

 

I was three sips in to my inaugural glass of Square One Brewery’s Social Devyat, a complex Russian Imperial stout, before the man who brewed it told me he was drinking it for the first time, too. I shot him an incredulous look.

“I’m surprised that there’s this interesting smokiness to it,” said Square One’s brewmaster John Witte, sounding like someone tasting someone else’s beer. The barrel had been tapped a mere 20 minutes before.

What made Witte’s revelation so startling was that Square One’s ninth anniversary party, which took place Feb. 25, was already well underway. The Devyat (Russian for “nine”) and a single keg of barrel-aged barley wine, held in reserve from last year’s shindig, were being poured and passed around the tables in the already full bar room. Now that’s confidence.

In our moment of high-concept beers (peanut butter-chocolate milk stout!), it seems risky to expend the malt and barrel space on high-gravity, unsessionable styles like barley wine and Imperial stouts. But wait until you take a sip. Aged in Square One’s J.J. Neukomm’s whiskey barrels, the Social Devyat begins with a rush of deep malt that gives way to the oakiness imparted by the cooperage. Stormy, even king-like in character, it’s not surprising this style is ascribed monarchical qualities – Russia’s Catherine the Great was such a fan she special ordered it from Britain throughout her reign.

“It’s like marrying a stout and a barley wine together,” he said. “You pick up flavors that have been impregnated into the wood.”

The more fruit-forward but slightly less distinctive barrel-aged barley wine is, at 11.2-percent ABV, the stronger beer. It’s also a collaboration between homebrewer Troy Woodburn and Witte, who called it a “pro-am beer.”

Well, perhaps I should say “was.” With such a strong turnout to raise a glass to another year of Square One’s fine brewing efforts, there isn’t likely to be much of the barley wine left. The Devyat, however, awaits you in all its fine Imperial glory. Na zdorovie.

Drink This Weekend Edition: 4 steps to ordering the perfect glass of wine

Friday, March 6th, 2015

030615_dtwe

 

Everyone should be able to peruse a restaurant wine list with confidence. Personally, I love when someone hands me a heavy leather-bound wine bible, but I realize that even a simple one-page list can be daunting for some. Here, how to order your perfect glass of wine in four simple steps:

Step 1: Order a glass of bubbly. Look for something from one of the traditional European sparkling wine regions: Spanish cava, Italian prosecco and French Champagne. The crisp, dry flavors in a sparkling wine whet your appetite, and bubbles always make the evening a celebration. Choosing one will be easy, as most wine lists only include one or two options. The budget-conscious can sip a cava or a fruity prosecco, while those looking to indulge can try a slightly more expensive glass of Champagne.

Step 2: Now that those bubbles have boosted your confidence a bit, turn your attention to the rest of the list and decide how much you are willing to spend on a glass (or bottle). Don’t be swayed by the first bottle of cabernet sauvignon you see; they can often be pricier, while more unfamiliar wines are often better values.

Step 3: Go outside your comfort zone. Order something outside of your usual repertoire. If you’re enjoying a steak, skip the cabernet or Bordeaux and instead try a red from South American or France’s Cahors region. The more obscure picks are often gems on wine lists, with a little more age and a much better quality for the price ratio.

Step 4: Still confused? Ask for help. Servers at quality establishments are trained to guide you toward a great wine pick. Ask for something special and out of the ordinary, then enjoy what comes.

Put your newfound skills to the test this weekend at Bar Italia in Central West End or Truffles in Ladue; both establishments have amazing by the glass and full wine lists – and attentive staff in case you get stuck. Choosing a wine should be fun; don’t let it stress you out.

 

Ben Wood has more than 10 years experience in the wine industry. He currently works as a sales representative for St. Louis-based wine importer Terra Firma.

Drink This Weekend Edition: The Will

Friday, February 27th, 2015

022715_dtwe

 

Every year, I struggle with the same concept: the winter cocktail. There are plenty of drinks that feature egg whites and cream, but they can end up with a thin texture or a chalky mouth feel. And what about that pesky leftover yolk? This decadent tipple delivers creaminess and punch, while also using up all those egg yolks I inevitably collect over time.

The Will
1 serving

1½ oz. Blanton’s bourbon
¾ oz. rich Demerara syrup (a 2:1 ratio)
½ oz. lemon juice
1 egg yolk
Cinnamon for garnish

• Combine the bourbon, Demerara syrup, lemon juice and egg yolk in a cocktail shaker and dry shake 15 seconds. Fill the shaker with ice and shake another 30 seconds. Double strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with cinnamon.

 

Ben Bauer is a member of USBG St. Louis and a bartender at The Libertine.

Drink This Weekend Edition: Heavy Riff and Excel Brewing’s Two Frenchmen

Thursday, February 19th, 2015

021915_riffbrew

 

Even a brew-savvy city like St. Louis can overlook a beer style every now and then. Heavy Riff Brewing Co. in Dogtown and Illinois-based Excel Brewing set out to change that with their bière de mars Two Frenchmen, debuting Saturday, Feb. 21 at 5 p.m.

Bière de mars, or “March beer,” is related to the more common saison and bière de garde. This classic French style is often floral, slightly fruity and was traditionally made in late winter or early spring for quick consumption. Two Frenchmen is brewed with orange peel and a touch of elderflower for added complexity. This amber beer is mildly malty with a slightly dry finish. The French farmhouse ale yeast strain gives the beer an added spicy character. The restrained hop character puts the focus on the fermentation characteristics and the subtle spice additions.

If you haven’t been to Heavy Riff lately, this is a perfect opportunity for a visit. The brewery, which celebrated its first anniversary last fall, now regularly has eight to 10 of its beers on tap. In addition to the bière de mars, Heavy Riff will also feature a cask of its new IPA Left Coast Envy and its Dark Days American rye stout. Excel is bringing its new double IPA, Plague Bringer.

If you miss the party, you’re in luck – Two Frenchmen will soon be on tap at better craft beer establishments around town.

Eric Hildebrandt is the moderator and ambassador for STL Hops. Find him on Twitter at @EricSTL6.

 

Drink This Weekend Edition: Sipping sake and Japanese whiskey at Baiku Sushi Lounge

Thursday, February 12th, 2015

021215_dtwe

I’ve never particularly enjoyed sake. What some sip prodigiously with their sushi and miso always tasted to me like anemic milk or the dregs of undercooked rice, to put it rather uncharitably.

However, after editing Julie Cohen’s Asian spirits article for the February issue, a comprehensive ode to the Far East boozes now finding their way to St. Louis, I decided to recalibrate my Asian palate and give sake, shochu and the rest another go. It was time for a drink session at Baiku Sushi Lounge, which opened last October in the Hotel Ignacio in Midtown.

Baiku currently shares bar and drink menu acreage with adjoining restaurant Triumph (though its own bar will be ready by this summer). Nestled between craft beers and rum bottles is an impressive roster of Asian spirits, including a full sake menu, specialty liqueurs and Japanese single malt whiskey, which, as Cohen pointed out in her piece, is clinching best whiskey titles left and right lately.

“Primarily what we want to do is carry a nice array of Asian beer, Japanese single malt and sake,” said Sean Thomas, front-of-house manager at Baiku. “A lot of the Asian stuff seems to be trending again,” he said, noting that Kirin Ichiban beer slushies will be added to Baiku’s drink lineup this summer.

Three of Baiku’s six signature cocktails employ Asian spirits or sake, though the entire menu dons a quintessentially Asian flavor profile, making use of plum, pear, lychee, ginger and hibiscus. The drinks that really shine are the Oinari and Nashi-Wari, respectively tapping Tozai Snow Maiden sake and Suntory Hibiki 12-year single malt. Snow Maiden redeemed sake for me, its assertive melon nose and coconut-milk texture a pleasure to drink on its own, and equally satisfying when softened by St. Germain elderflower liqueur and grapefruit juice in the Oinari. The Nashi-Wari is less subtle – the combination of gentle single malt and local Big O ginger liqueur seems to transmogrify into a rum-and-Coke flavor, which doesn’t exactly seem Asian in character, but isn’t a bad thing either. If we can call cocktails “sessionable,” these drinks are it – balanced, delicious and eminently drinkable. Kanpai!

Drink This Weekend Edition: Get schooled on sherry

Thursday, February 5th, 2015

010515_dtwe

 

Sherry is one of the greatest values in the wine world right now, but there’s still a lot of confusion surrounding these fortified Spanish wines. Here, a crash course on three types of sherry – and why you should drink them:

1. Fino: These sherries are not oxidized, which makes them crisp, clean and beautiful. They are a perfect start to a meal with olives and charcuterie or even a more substantial fish course. A fino labeled “Manzanilla” means that sherry was created exclusively in the costal town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

2. Oloroso: The aging process for this sherry allows for plenty of oxidation. This means they are rich, complex and often some of the oldest wines you can get for the money. Olorosos are aged in a solera system, a series of barrels that contain different ages of wine. The average oloroso solera is well over 30 years old. Some date back to the 1800s; this means that some portion of every bottle in that solera is that old. At least 17 percent ABV, oloroso is one of my favorite wines to enjoy with cheese plates loaded with strong varieties, honey, nuts and quince paste.

3. Pedro Ximénez: Got a sweet tooth? This classic dessert wine is the one sherry made with the Pedro Ximénez grape instead of the palamino. So dark they appear brown or almost black, these are amazingly sweet wines. My favorite way to enjoy PX is poured over vanilla ice cream (just like grandma used to!), but it’s quite good with honeyed desserts like baklava or halvah.

The Wine and Cheese Place in Creve Coeur and Starrs both have excellent sherry selections. Ready to try a bottle? Look for Valdespino Fino Inocente, an excellent start for sherry novices.

Prefer to shake that sherry instead? Try our recipe for a Tongue & Cheek cocktail featuring fino sherry and click here to learn more about this resurgent wine.

 

Ben Wood has more than 10 years experience in the wine industry. He currently works as a sales representative for St. Louis-based wine importer Terra Firma.

Drink This Weekend Edition: Vesper Martini

Thursday, January 29th, 2015

012915_dtwe

 

The martini is best known as the 007 or the official drink of James Bond – though any bartender will tell you it should definitely be stirred, not shaken. This Vesper martini combines both vodka and gin and requires a little finesse to perfect.

The ratio of vodka to gin varies, but most classic Vesper recipes have a 1-to-1 ratio. I prefer a stronger gin pour, particularly a stronger pine-forward gin like St. George Terrior. Sipped straight, it tastes like running through a pine forest with an open mouth. Stir it with vodka, which cuts through the gin botanicals, and Lillet, a French aperitif that balances this simple cocktail the way vermouth does in a classic martini. (Prefer a classic gin martini? Click here.)

 

Vesper Martini
1 serving

1½ oz. St. George Terroir gin
1 oz. Purus vodka
½ oz. Lillet Blanc
Lemon twist for garnish

• In a pint glass or shaker filled with ice, combine all ingredients. Stir to combine and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.

Natasha Bahrami is a member of USBG St. Louis and co-owner of Natasha’s Cafe and The Gin Room.

 

 

Drink This Weekend Edition: Charlie Chaplin and tea cocktails at Blank Space

Thursday, January 22nd, 2015

012315_dtwe

{The Charlie Chaplin at Blank Space}

If you dig the inside baseball of the drinking industry, chances are you’ve made your way over to Motown Mondays at Cherokee Street’s Blank Space. The slow-jam sesh at the visual and performing arts venue, according to owner Kaveh Razani, is a confab of the city’s drink-mixing minds and fertile ground for collusion, invention and hip-gyrating fun.

Seeking reinvention, Razani (whose brother Mazi Razani is a partner at Blueprint Coffee) recently called in an industry favor and consulted with cocktail guru Joel Clark at The Purple Martin nearby. The idea was to wed Blank Space’s estimable tea program and its liquor selection, the bottles of which have been gathering dust on a shelf.

“I’ve always wanted to do tea before I wanted to do liquor,” Razani said, explaining that whatever Blank Space is, its customers seldom view it as a drinking destination. He and Clark set out to change that.

“(Kaveh) said, ‘I want to make hot tea cocktails,’” Clark said. “I said, ‘I’ve never seen anybody do that. Let’s do it.’”

The result is a six-item roster of cocktails of a type you won’t find elsewhere in St. Louis, all of them are available hot or cold. Clark described the 20 hours of R&D that went into perfecting what essentially amounts to an ice-less, shaken cocktail. The necessary dilution that comes from ice now is provided by tea.

Clark had help from others – he lost his sense of smell after a seizure – and mixes drinks now using second opinions and a finely tuned sense of dead reckoning.

The spirits are mixed, shaken and strained before fresh hot tea is poured over the top. (Razani sources from the local ReTrailer mobile teamaker and San Francisco importer Vital Tea Leaf.) I tried the Charlie Chaplin – named for a tattoo on Clark’s forearm – a mix of apricot brandy, sloe gin, lime juice and sweet Drop It Like Its Hot hibiscus tea. Garnished with a floating lime wheel, the cocktail is a lovely shade of magenta, bracingly tart and warm all the way down. Also available is the toddy-like Brooklyn Cocktail, made with rye, dry vermouth, Maraschino liqueur, Fernet and mint tea.

You don’t have to wait until Motown Monday to drink the fruits of industry collaboration, mind you. Just be sure to get there this weekend, before the next great idea is conceived.

 

 

 

 

RSS FEEDS
Keep up with one or all of your favorite Sauce Magazine columns
Conceived and created by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC 1999-2015, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Sauce Magazine 1820 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, Missouri 63103.
PH: 314-772-8004 FAX: 314-241-8004