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Sep 21, 2017
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Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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Just Five

Recipe: Peach-Bourbon Milkshake

Thursday, September 21st, 2017

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Boozy milkshakes are a fun, trendy dessert option. Peaches and bourbon are a great combination, and that left me with a fun “free” fifth ingredient to choose. Mint? Vanilla or almond extract? My decision was made for me when I realized the rock-hard peaches I picked up the previous day hadn’t quite achieved perfectly ripe lusciousness. I needed to coax out some flavor and juice, so I brought out the butter and sugar.

 I decided that if I was going to add butter to a milkshake (insert OMG emoji here), that I may as well go all in. That means this butter is browned, my dears, and it makes all the difference. If you’re catering to teetotaling friends or family members, the bourbon can be poured in after you make the shake.

Peach-Bourbon Milkshake
4 small or 2 large servings

2 large peaches or 3 medium peaches, ripe or just underripe
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
¼ cup brown sugar
5-6 scoops high-quality vanilla ice cream, plus more as needed
½ cup whole milk, plus more as needed
4 oz. bourbon

• Bring a medium saucepan filled with water to a rolling boil over high heat. Prepare an ice bath.
• Slice a small X into the bottom of the peaches with a sharp knife, then place them in the boiling water 45 seconds to 1 minute until the skin just starts to pull away from the X. Remove and immediately plunge them into the ice water bath. Starting at the X, peel the peaches, then pit, slice and set aside.
• Place the butter in a large skillet and melt over medium heat. Gently swirl the pan until the solids just start to turn brown and the butter smells nutty.
• Add the peaches and brown sugar and stir to coat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and saute the peaches 3 to 4 minutes, until the mixture is saucy. Remove from heat and let cool at least 30 minutes.
• In the pitcher of a blender, combine the peach mixture and all its sauce, ice cream, milk and bourbon. Cover and puree until completely blended, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add ice cream or milk to reach the desired consistency.

 

Photo by Michelle Volansky 

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine who also pens Make This

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Recipe: Harissa Chicken

Friday, September 8th, 2017

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Using yogurt as a marinade is a great way to keep chicken tender and juicy. Like buttermilk, the acid in a dairy marinade actually tenderizes the meat and imparts its slightly tart taste to the chicken. Spicy harissa is tempered by the dairy and brightened by the lemon zest. Harissa can be found at most international food stores like Global Foods Market, Jay’s International Foods or United Provisions, but a decent substitute can be yours with just five ingredients. It’s not as complex as what you’ll find at the store, but it saved me an extra trip on a busy day.

 

Harissa Chicken
4 servings

½ cup plain Greek yogurt
2 to 4 Tbsp. harissa paste (Optional recipe follows.)
Zest and juice of 1 small lemon
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ cup olive oil
8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs or drumsticks
¼ cup torn mint leaves

• In a mixing bowl, whisk together the yogurt, harissa, lemon juice and zest and salt, then whisk in the olive oil.
• Place the chicken in a large zip-top bag and add the yogurt marinade. Seal the bag and massage the chicken to completely coat. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes or overnight.
• Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for medium-high, direct heat.
• Grill the chicken skin side-down 3 to 4 minutes, then flip and cook another 3 to 4 minutes, until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reaches 160 degrees.
• Arrange the chicken on a serving platter and immediately top with the mint so the heat releases the oils.

 

Quick Harissa Paste
1/3 cup

5 to 6 garlic cloves, minced
5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1½ Tbsp. smoked paprika
2 tsp. coriander
1 tsp. red pepper flakes
½ tsp. kosher salt

• Combine all the ingredients in a glass bowl and microwave 15 to 30 seconds, until fragrant. Whisk to combine and let cool. Store refrigerated in a sealed jar.

 

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine who also pens Make This

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Recipe: Eggplant and Tomato Bruschetta

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Recipe: Eggplant and Tomato Bruschetta

Thursday, August 31st, 2017

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What else is there to say about a late-summer tomato? There is nothing that can touch its flavor, and there is little reason to do more than throw slices on bread with salt and pepper and inhale them.

Ah, bread. My other love. Specifically, Mr. Meowski’s sourdough bread. My daughters refer to Mr. Meowski as “mom’s boyfriend,” and I don’t correct them. This bread has limited availability, but you can be darn sure I know how to find it: most days at Larder & Cupboard, Roger’s Produce, Local Harvest Grocery, City Greens Market, Freddie’s Market and Saturdays at Tower Grove Farmers’ Market.

Eggplant hasn’t ever done much for me, but I’ve started to experiment with different varieties. I’m a fan of the long, skinny Asian eggplants, as opposed to the stout globe ones found in most groceries. I find Japanese and Chinese eggplants to be less bitter with a more enjoyable texture, and roasting them brings out an almost floral quality.

If one were to gild the lily on this perfect late-summer dish, it would be with a few splashes of balsamic or red wine vinegar.

Eggplant and Tomato Bruschetta
8 servings

2 Japanese or Chinese eggplants, peeled and sliced ¼-inch thick
1 to 2 Tbsp. olive oil
8 ¾-inch slices sourdough or pain de beaucaire, toasted
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
8 oz. goat cheese crumbles or feta cheese
3 to 4 medium ripe tomatoes, cut into ½-inch slices
4 Tbsp. chopped fresh marjoram

• Preheat the broiler.
• In a mixing bowl, toss the eggplant with the olive oil and place in an even layer on a foil lined-baking sheet. Broil 5 minutes, until the eggplant starts to brown.
• Evenly divide the roasted eggplant atop the toast. Season with salt and pepper, then sprinkle each slice with 1 ounce cheese. Broil 2 to 3 minutes.
• Place the tomato atop the toast, then garnish with the marjoram. Serve immediately.

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine who also pens Make This

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Recipe: Frozen Pimm’s Punch

Friday, August 11th, 2017

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There’s a month or two of sno-cone weather left – take advantage with a frozen riff on a favorite cocktail. Pimm’s is a highbrow British gin-based liqueur flavored with bitter herbs and citrus that you might find in fancy Wimbledon box. This recipe turns the original Pimm’s Cup into a summertime adult treat that goes down oh-so easy. Tallyho and pip-pip!

Frozen Pimm’s Punch
4 servings

3 cups lemonade, plus more to taste
1 cup chopped cucumber, peeled and seeded
1 cup strawberries, hulled
5 mint leaves
1 cup Pimm’s No. 1, plus more to taste

Special equipment: Ice cream maker*

• In a blender on high speed, combine the lemonade, cucumber, strawberries and mint for 30 seconds, until completely liquefied. Use a fine mesh sieve to strain the mixture into a large bowl. Press the solids with the back of a spoon to remove as much liquid as possible; discard the solids.
• Stir in the Pimm’s. Taste and adjust with more Pimm’s or lemonade as desired.
• Freeze in an ice cream maker 30 to 45 minutes, until the mixture reaches a slushie-like consistency.

* If you do not have an ice cream maker, pour the mixture into a shallow container and freeze 2 hours. Scrape the frozen edges towards the middle of the container, then refreeze, scraping and stirring every 30 minutes until the mixture reaches the desired consistency.

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This

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Just Five: Zucchini Carpaccio

Wednesday, July 19th, 2017

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‘Tis the season for many friends to offer zucchini “free to a good home” on social media. I have such a home and jumped on a similar post, so I drove to Kirkwood to pick up quite possibly the largest zucc I’ve ever seen – more baseball bat than vegetable. Thanks to a recent lunch at Olio, it was destined for a home run (see what I did there?).

Olio’s zucchini carpaccio is made with preserved lemon and herb oil. With five ingredients at your disposal, there’s room to play here: add minced fresh herbs or try different nuts (toasted walnuts, hazelnuts or pepitas would be great). The trick is to thinly shave the zucchini with a decent vegetable peeler. This is a quintessential summer dish, perfect with some crusty bread and glass of white wine.

 

Zucchini Carpaccio
Inspired by a dish at Olio
4 to 6 servings

2 medium zucchini
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. lemon zest
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
½ cup shaved Parmesan or pecorino cheese
¼ cup toasted pine nuts
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Drizzle of olive oil, for serving

• Trim the ends of the zucchini and use a vegetable peeler to shave them into thin ribbons, discarding the first and last peelings that are mostly skin.
• Toss the zucchini ribbons in a colander with the salt and let drain 30 minutes, tossing occasionally. Blot the zucchini dry with paper towels and layer them in a shallow baking dish.
• Tuck the garlic slices between the layers and sprinkle with the lemon juice and lemon zest. Cover with plastic and marinate at least 15 minutes.
• Remove and discard the garlic. Place the zucchini in a shallow serving bowl and top with Parmesan, pine nuts, pepper and a drizzle of olive oil immediately.

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This. 

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Just Five: Vess Soda Pork Chops

Thursday, June 29th, 2017

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Based on the overwhelming response to a recent Red Hot Riplet-based Just Five, I decided to incorporate another location favorite as one of my key five ingredients. Ladies and gentlemen, I bring you Vess pineapple soda. Like New England’s Moxie and the South’s Cheerwine, Vess is uniquely St. Louis, and pineapple soda is … well, it almost sounds like a dare. It also happens to make a heck of a good marinade when mixed with soy sauce.

A thin-cut pork chop made for a super quick weeknight dinner, but this marinade would also be great on chicken. While I made this in a skillet on the stovetop, using a thicker chop and grilling it would be fantastic.

 

Vess Soda Pork Chops
2 servings

2 thin-cut pork chops
1 cup Vess pineapple soda
½ cup soy sauce
½ tsp. serrano pepper, or more to taste
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
¼ cup chopped cilantro

• Place pork chops in a zip-top bag with the soda, soy sauce and serrano pepper. Seal and refrigerate at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.
• Remove the chops from marinade and shake off excess. Set aside.
• Pour the remaining marinade in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 5 to 10 minutes, until it starts to thicken. Remove from heat and set aside.
• Place a heavy-bottom skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil. Sear the pork chops 3 minutes, then flip and sear 2 minutes more. Spoon 3 tablespoons reduced marinade atop the pork chops and cook 1 minute more
• Remove from heat and let rest. Sprinkle chopped cilantro atop the pork and serve.

Photo by Michelle Volansky

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and pens Make This

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Just Five: Lemon and Arugula Pasta

Just Five: Lemon and Arugula Pasta

Tuesday, June 20th, 2017

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Recent emergency surgery put me on a bit of a forced vacation. The upsides of this unfortunate situation: catching up on two seasons of “Grey’s Anatomy,” quality time with the dog and my friends delivering my family a few meals. It’s not that my family is incompetent in the kitchen, but this is what people do when a friend is down and out. They drop by with a nice dinner.

I was the recipient of a delicious meal from Pastaria, some fresh bone broth, a smoked turkey and lentil stew I still think of fondly, and this simply amazing pasta dish. Apparently this is my friend’s go-to pasta dish, and it just became mine, too. So the next time you have a friend taken out of commission, bring a pot of water to boil and make this simple delicious meal.

Lemon and Arugula Pasta
3 to 4 servings

1 lb. spaghetti or other thin noodle
¼ cup minced shallot
3 Tbsp. olive oil
4 cups arugula
Juice and zest of 1 large lemon
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more to taste, divided
1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add pasta and cook according to package directions. Reserve ½ cup pasta water.
• Meanwhile, in a medium pan over medium heat, saute shallots in the olive oil 3 to 4 minutes until soft.
• Place the shallots and arugula in a large shallow serving dish. Add the lemon zest and juice, ¼ cup cheese and the black pepper and toss to combine.
• Use tongs to transfer the pasta to the serving dish. Add the pasta water and toss well until the noodles are coated. Top with remaining ¼ cup cheese and serve.

Photo by Michelle Volansky 

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

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Just Five: Red Hot Riplets Chicken Tenders

Just Five: Blueberry Rum Slush

Just Five: Red Hot Riplets Chicken Tenders

Monday, May 15th, 2017

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It’s a St. Louis thing, like Provel on pizza and pineapple Vess soda. Not everyone gets it. And that’s OK. Some flavors are just wired into your DNA. Just thinking about Old Vienna Red Hot Riplets and a chocolate malt puts me smack dab into sixth grade again. They’re my version of Proust’s madeleine, and I won’t apologize for it. These chips are spicy as heck and just a little sweet. They are a color rarely found in nature, but proudly preservative free. Note that no additional salt or pepper is added to this recipe. The chips and a little honey are all the flavor you need.

 

Red Hot Riplets Chicken Tenders
4 servings

1½ cups buttermilk
3 Tbsp. honey, plus more for drizzling
14 oz. chicken tenderloins
1 5-oz. bag Old Vienna Red Hot Riplets
½ cup flour

• In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the buttermilk and honey until the honey is dissolved. Add the chicken tenderloins and soak 2 to 3 hours.
• Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
• In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the chips and flour 5 or 6 times, until a course crumb mixture forms. Pour in a shallow dish.
• Working a few pieces at a time, gently shake the excess buttermilk from the tenders. Dredge in the potato chip mixture until well coated and place on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining tenders.
• Bake 20 to 25 minutes, then drizzle with a little honey and serve.

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

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Just Five: Blueberry Rum Slush

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Just Five: Blueberry Rum Slush

Thursday, May 11th, 2017

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I recently painted myself into a corner. While preparing to teach a cooking class, I added a Blueberry Rum Cocktail to the menu. I hadn’t actually developed the drink yet, but it sounded like something easy to create in five ingredients. And then, well, I forgot about it.

A few weeks before the class, I rushed to create a tasty cocktail. Blueberries. Rum. Three more things – go! I spent a Friday evening, muddling, crushing and pureeing fresh blueberries to get the most out of them. I mixed them with light and dark rum, citrus, lavender, Chambord, soda water, ginger ale, ginger beer… Nothing wowed. The rum overpowered the delicate blueberries. To bring out their intense flavor, they really need to be cooked.

It was time to try something else – blueberry juice. There are a few different blueberry juice blends, but I found a bottle of pure juice (R.W. Knudsen Just Blueberry Juice) at my local grocery, and it packed the blueberry punch I was after. Creme de cassis, a blackcurrant liqueur, gives the drink a little boost, and throwing everything into the blender makes a refreshing, not overly sweet seasonal cocktail.

This recipe took years off of my life and made me question my skills, but I can proudly say that this is a fine drink, my friends. And be careful: they go down easy!

 

Blueberry Rum Slush
4 servings

2 cups ice
2 cups blueberry juice
12 oz. ginger ale
1 cup white rum
½ cup creme de cassis
4 sprigs fresh rosemary to garnish

• Place the ice, blueberry juice, ginger ale, rum and creme de cassis in a blender and blitz until frothy. Pour into 4 large serving glasses.
• Slap the fresh rosemary between your palms to release the oils. Garnish each drink with a rosemary sprig and serve with a straw.

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

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Just Five: Pork Chop with Peppers Confit

Monday, April 10th, 2017

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Confit is a method of preservation that generally involves cooking food in fat low and slow for a long time. While you often hear of meat prepared confit (duck confit is a delicacy that comes from cooking duck legs in rendered duck fat), vegetables are confit-able. Cooking peppers in oil over low heat transforms their texture from a crisp juicy bite to smooth and almost creamy. Adding capers lends a briny, herbal bite, and sharp-sweet sherry vinegar-soaked golden raisins make this dish dance.

 
Pork Chop with Peppers Confit
Inspired by a Rozanne Gold recipe
2 servings

¼ cup golden raisins
3 Tbsp. sherry vinegar, plus more to taste
4 yellow or red bell peppers, seeded and cut into 8 slices each
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. olive oil
2 thick-cut pork chops
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 Tbsp. capers

• Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
• In a small bowl, soak the raisins in the vinegar. Set aside.
• In a medium pot over medium heat, bring the pepper slices and and ¼ cup olive oil to a boil. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and reduce heat to low. Simmer 45 minutes, shaking the pot occasionally, but do not remove the lid.
• Generously season the pork chops with salt and pepper.
• Preheat a heavy, oven-safe skillet over high heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and sear the pork chops 4 minutes on each side.
• Place the skillet in the oven and bake 10 minutes. Place the chops on a serving plate and let rest.
• Remove the peppers from the oil and place them in a mixing bowl. Add the capers, raisins and vinegar and gently toss. Season to taste with salt, pepper and vinegar, then place the peppers confit atop the pork chops and serve.

Photo by Michelle Volansky

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

 

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