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  SAUCE MAGAZINE
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Dec 19, 2014
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Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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Sneak Peek

Sneak Peek: Seoul Taco and Seoul Q

Tuesday, December 16th, 2014

“This city has never seen anything like this.” Seoul Taco co-owner David Choi was talking about the barbecue grills fitting inside tables at his upcoming Korean barbecue and hotpot restaurant, Seoul Q, but the statement holds true for everything Choi has done at 6665 Delmar Blvd., in University City. The space is the new home for Choi’s relocated Seoul Taco, and its sister restaurant, Seoul Q. While they share a space, Seoul Taco will open later this week, and Seoul Q is slated to open at the end of December.

Upon entering, diners encounter a host stand in front of a partition made from colorfully painted boomboxes. Step right for Korean-Mexican fusion; step left for Korean barbecue and hotpots. The decor is as much a cultural mashup as Seoul Taco’s fusion fare is. A sculpture made from a 1942 Ford Metro van is mounted on the wall next to murals of Korean martial arts fighters wearing Mexican luchador masks.

Seoul Taco is still counter service, but there’s plenty more elbowroom at 76-seat space compared to its former 18-person confines down the street at 571 Mehlville Ave. The menu at Seoul Taco remains the same, but patrons can expect daily specials like Korean barbecue tortas and nachos. And now that it has a liquor license, patrons can wash down their tacos and burritos with 4 Hands brews on tap.

On the other side of the boomboxes, full-service Seoul Q is just as boisterous, but with a more industrial feel. Eight cylindrical exhaust hoods extend over those DIY barbecue grills in the center of poured concrete tables, and a dark wood scape runs the length of one wall, a signature touch of Smartmouth Designs, the Chicago-based interior design company that worked on the space.

The Seoul Q menu is divided into appetizers, soups and hotpots and barbecue. Patrons ordering the latter choose between various cuts of beef and pork to grill at the table. The meat comes with rice, six sides, vegetables and a choice of soup. A barbecue order generally serves two to three people. Meanwhile, meat and seafood hotpots are kept warm at induction stovetops set into some tables. Beverages include bottled craft beer and cocktails featuring soju, a Korean spirit.

Here’s a look at what to expect at Seoul Taco and Seoul Q when both restaurants open:

 

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-photos by Michelle Volansky

 

Sneak Peek: Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions

Wednesday, November 26th, 2014

Chris Bolyard announced in February that he would be leaving his post as chef de cuisine at Sidney Street Cafe to open a butcher shop with his wife, Abbie Bolyard. Some 10 months later, the Bolyard’s are ready to unlock doors to Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions at 2810 Sutton Blvd. The boutique butcher shop opens this Friday, Nov. 28 in Maplewood.

Old-school, artisanal and whole-animal all figure into the Bolyards’ approach to their business. Animals are sourced from smaller family farms in Missouri and Illinois that raise their hogs, cows, lambs and chicken on pasture and without hormones, antibiotics or grain. Chris Bolyard got a taste for whole-hog butchery at Sidney Street and honed those skills further, staging at butcher shops in Chicago, Nashville and New Orleans.

At their new shop, a glass window provides a view to the cut room, where Bolyard will don a scabbard and break down whole animals like cows into sections like the chuck and brisket, rib and plate primal, hanger steak, short loin and sirloin.

A graduate of the Culinary Institute and a member of the Ones to Watch class of 2011, Bolyard will also put his charcuterie skills to work. Among prepared meat products, Bolyard will make sausages like chorizo, andouille, bratwurst, hot dogs, Toulouse (a French sausage of diced pork) and kielbasa. Also behind the deli counter, look for bacon, porchetta di testa and deli meats such as mortadella, pastrami, Bastardo (a bastardized style of salami made with beef and pork), ham and roast beef. Liver cheese, head cheese, pork rillettes and braunschweiger will be among pressed and pulled meat offerings. The shop even offers to-go cups of hot beef, chicken or pork broth, bags of fresh, house-made chicharrónes (pork rinds) and beef jerky.

Not sure what meat to buy? Need a special cut? The Bolyards aim to be a service-oriented, custom butcher shop. “It’s our job to let them know what’s in, what we have,” said Abbie Bolyard, who worked as a maitre d’ and server at Niche for five years before leaving the restaurant in 2013.

As for provisions, Bolyard’s refrigerator is filled with house-prepared kitchen staples like lard and stocks, condiments such as Worcestershire, ketchup and harissa, and fresh eggs from Vesterbrook Farm in Clarksville.

The airy, window-lined space (most recently the Black Cat Theatre lobby) rounds out its inventory with beef tallow soap, hand and lip balm made by Maplewood neighbor Maven, Woodside Urban honey, Missouri charcoal and wood chips and Yellow Tree Farms wooden kitchen utensils and cutting boards. There’s even something for four-legged friends: smoked pig ears and beef trim dog food. (A portion of profits from dog products will benefit Humane Society of Missouri.)

Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions will be open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

 

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-photos by Michelle Volansky

 

 

 

Sneak Peek: Earthbound Brewing

Friday, November 21st, 2014

Cherokee Street’s Earthbound Brewing will soon lay claim to the title “St. Louis’ Shortest Brewery Tour.” At less than 1,000 square feet, it takes a person less than 30 seconds to walk from the front to the back of the shotgun-style space. Located at 2710 Cherokee St., Earthbound is smaller than most tasting rooms, but co-owners Stuart Keating, Rebecca Schranz and Jeff Siddons have big ideas for their new brewery, which opens doors tomorrow, Nov. 22.

As The Scoop first reported in July, the Earthbound Brewing team is turning their homebrew habit into a full-fledged business. Beer recipes saluting both classic styles and unique ingredients are in the works; Keating said some of the first Earthbound beers he hopes to offer include a pale ale brewed with rosemary and juniper as well as a pecan-chicory stout. Batches will be small and frequently rotated since space to actually brew is limited.

About 30 people can imbibe at the bar or at tables and stools that Keating, Schranz and Siddons crafted with salvaged local wood. The trio also decorated the narrow walls with antique farm implements and maps framed inside refurbished window frames.

Behind the bar, eight taps will eventually pour a selection of Earthbound brews and those by local favorites like Augusta Brewing, The Civil Life, Ferguson Brewing and more. Patrons can also order that most hipster of canned beers, Stag, or choose from a selection of spirits. There’s no food service at Earthbound, but customers are encouraged to pick up fare to-go from a Cherokee Street eatery and dig in over a pint.

Earthbound will be open Thursdays and Fridays from 4 p.m. to midnight and Saturdays and Sundays from noon to midnight.

 

 

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-photos by Michelle Volansky

Sneak Peek: Larder & Cupboard

Tuesday, November 11th, 2014

Those who scour grocery stores in vain for mustard-miso paste, elderberry shrubs or tart cherry grenadine, look no further. Larder & Cupboard, a specialty food store focused on small independent producers, officially opens Wednesday, Nov. 12 and will have all this and more on its shelves.

Owner Brian Pelletier, who also owns Kakao Chocolate, set up shop at 7310 Manchester Road in Maplewood, a 2,200-square-foot space that formerly housed an antique furniture store. Herringbone hardwood floors, a marble entry way and a working fireplace add to the shop’s artisanal charm. Upon entering, customers will see cupboards and shelves stacked with everything from small-batch bitters to Cool Cow Cheese to SeedGeeks heirloom seed packets.

As The Scoop first reported in August, general manager Cindy Higgerson is the woman behind the shop’s extensive inventory. Higgerson said her goal was to fill Larder & Cupboard with hard-to-find items from small, high-quality producers who source locally. St. Louis-area producers include Marcoot Jersey Creamery, Woodside Honey, Salume Beddu – and of course, Kakao. However, Higgerson said many products are new to the St. Louis market and have won or been nominated for Good Food Awards and Sofi Awards.

Area restaurants plan to add their wares to store shelves, too. Higgerson said Larder & Cupboard will soon carry fresh pasta and sauces from Pastaria, house-made condiments and sides from Juniper (currently featured in its Gift Horse holiday bags) and cuts of meat from soon-to-open Maplewood neighbor Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions.

Larder & Cupboard will be open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Sundays from noon to 5 p.m. Here’s what to expect when the doors open this Wednesday:

 

 

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-photos by Michelle Volansky

Sneak Peek: Avenue

Friday, November 7th, 2014

Co-owners Bryan and Diane Carr have combined the best of their former restaurants Pomme and Pomme Café to open Avenue, which opens doors today, Nov. 7 at 12 N. Meramec Ave., in Clayton. The Carrs announced they would take over the former Roxane’s space just two months ago, and they’ve transformed the once raucous, eclectic venue into a more subdued, relaxed environment featuring sleek black leather, muted grays and unexpected pops of color.

As chef, Bryan Carr has brought several Pomme customer favorites to the Avenue dinner menu, including rainbow trout amandine, beef shortribs, eggplant involtini and his classic Apples for Olivia dessert. Carr is also debuting new dishes crafted with his precise execution and presentation, like starters of wild mushrooms over toasted baguette and gnocchi, along with fresh, crisp salads featuring kale, farro, roasted beets and more. The new Avenue kitchen means Carr can offer a rotating selection of fresh oysters and french fries, perfect for an entree of steak frites.

Avenue will operate for dinner service only beginning at 5 p.m. today through Wednesday, Nov. 12, after which Avenue will open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as brunch on the weekends and a late-night bar menu.

Here’s what to expect when Avenue opens doors for dinner tonight:

 

 

 

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-photos by Michelle Volansky

Sneak Peek: The Side Project Cellar

Thursday, November 6th, 2014

Cory and Karen King’s side project is about to take center stage. The Side Project Cellar, a 50-seat tasting room at 7373 Marietta Ave., is set to open doors in Maplewood Tuesday, Nov. 11.

Cory King, who is also Perennial Artisan Ales head brewer (and Sauce beer columnist), announced he was launching Side Project Brewing in February 2013. As a gypsy brewer, he leased equipment and space at Perennial Artisan Ales to produce barrel-aged and barrel-fermented beers.

The first Side Project brew, Brett Project #1, was released in September 2013 and immediately garnered the brewery national attention. Now, King and his wife, Karen King, have opened a 50-seat tasting room, featuring 24 draft beers, cellar beers from its temperature- and humidity-controlled cellar, dozens of whiskeys and six wines.

Guests can expect to see numerous Belgian-inspired beers plus dedicated taps for brews by Side Project Brewing, Perennial Artisan Ales and Deschutes. The launch lists also includes beers by Civil Life, Schlafly, Prairie Artisan Ales, Evil Twin, Oskar Blues, Sierra Nevada, de Molen and de Struise.

While Cory King focuses on brewing, Karen King, who has worked as a representative for Goose Island and a market manager Deschutes, will manage the tasting room. The Side Project Cellar will be open Tuesday through Thursday from 3 to 10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from noon to 11 p.m.

 

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 -photos by Michelle Volansky

Sneak Peek: Old Standard

Tuesday, October 14th, 2014

Ben Poremba's newest restaurant, Old Standard, specializes in his favorite food: fried chicken. Located at 1621 Tower Grove Ave., Old Standard opens to the public Oct. 20.

 

We’ve been craving fried chicken since restaurateur Ben Poremba announced nearly a year ago that he was opening a chicken shack. The restaurant, Old Standard, is located at 1621 Tower Grove Ave., in Botanical Heights, which is anchored by his other eateries, Elaia, Olio and Chouquette. After much renovation to the historic space (It was once a police horse stable.), and a fried chicken research tour that took him to more than 500 eateries around the country, Poremba will open Old Standard’s doors to the public Oct. 20.

Poremba sources chicken from Miller Poultry in Indiana, which raises hormone- and antibiotic-free poultry on an all-vegetable diet. After brining the bird, it is battered and cooked in a pressure fryer. Diners can get their fried chicken half, whole or a la carte – thigh, half-breast or leg. While fried chicken is a main event at Old Standard, guests can get a taste of the South in snacks and sides, many of which feature crispy vegetables and briny pickles to counter the fattiness of fried chicken. A selection of breads and desserts round out the food offerings.

The bar puts a spotlight on American whiskey and soda. Old Standard carries 50 whiskeys, nearly half of which are bourbons. Whiskey-based cocktails are also available. Beer lovers can choose from 10 canned beers (buckets of beer are served in sturdy Coleman lunch boxes) or opt for Old Standard’s proprietary beer on draft, a Pilsner brewed by Urban Chestnut. Teetotalers (and kids) won’t be disappointed in the drink options. Old Standard stocks two dozen bottled sodas and six house-made ones in flavors like rose water-toasted almond and stone fruit-spice. A trio of house-made lemonades and iced teas featuring blends by the London Tea Room, keep the drink vibe on the Southern map.

Old Standard will be open daily. Initial hours will be Monday through Saturday from 4:30 p.m. to midnight and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., with lunch added in six to eight weeks. Here’s what to expect when Old Standard opens doors next Monday:

 

 

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-photos by Meera Nagarajan

Sneak Peek: Rooster on South Grand

Thursday, October 2nd, 2014

Nearly a year ago, restaurateur Dave Bailey announced his plans to open a second location for his breakfast, lunch and brunch cafe, Rooster, at 3150 S. Grand Blvd., in South City. After an extensive rehab to the former Hamiltonian Bank & Trust building, the historic, glass box-style building is now ready for diners.

At its newest location, Rooster will offer the same morning and lunch fare that has garnered it national praise. However, the daily eatery will also operate during evening hours. The dinner menu, which Bailey described as “country French with a South City influence,” is divided into starters and entrees. The former includes items such as risotto cakes, mac-n-cheese, steak tartare, a house charcuterie plate, cured salmon and a couple salads. Among the dozen main dishes, guests will find protein-laden options to satisfy carnivores, pescatarians and vegetarians alike, including fried chicken, Missouri trout, beef brisket with braised cabbage and spaetzel, and a root vegetable hash.

The expansive 200-seat interior features sweeping floor-to-ceiling glass windows, with two 40-foot community tables extending the length of the main dining room. A patio is dotted with picnic tables than can accommodate another 150 guests.

A 3,000-square-foot lower level now serves as a bakery and commissary kitchen for Bailey’s entire family of restaurants (Baileys’ Range, Baileys’ Chocolate Bar, Bridge and Small Batch). The commissary kitchen was previously located downtown. The kitchen will also serve Bailey’s upcoming barbecue restaurant and rooftop bar at 1011 Olive St., downtown. Those venues are on target to open this spring, Bailey said, but names have not been finalized yet.

Rooster opens doors to the public Monday,Oct. 6. Here’s a look at what’s in store at this new restaurant on South Grand.

 

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Sneak Peek: Three Kings Public House in Des Peres

Thursday, October 2nd, 2014

In March, The Scoop announced that Three Kings Public House, a gastro pub located at 6307 Delmar Blvd., in The Loop, would open a second location in Des Peres. After months renovating the former Mosaic space at 11925 Manchester Road, pub owners Ryan Pinkston, Derek Deavers and Derek Flieg are ready to open doors.

Regulars of The Loop locale can find their favorite dishes from the Three Kings’ menu at the new location, as there are few differences between the two food menus. On the beverage side, craft beer options are deeper at the Des Peres location, which offers 30 beers on tap compared to the two dozen at its sister spot in University City.

The most dramatic difference between the venues is the space itself. Gone is the open kitchen from Mosaic’s run in this strip mall. Instead, a wall divides the 140-seat space between the dining area and the bar section. Reclaimed wood holds court on both sides – on the walls, tables and flooring – with material that hails from torn down city churches and regional barns. A wooden wall also privatizes the patio and decreases noise from busy Manchester Road. Here’s what you’ll find when Three Kings Public House opens Monday, Oct. 6:

 

 

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-photos by Ligaya Figueras

Sneak Peek: BaiKu Sushi Lounge

Wednesday, October 1st, 2014

In July, The Scoop broke the news that Café Pintxos at Hotel Ignacio in Midtown was being reconcepted as BaiKu Sushi Lounge. Under the direction of Brad Beracha, owner of now defunct sushi restaurant Miso on Meramec and Araka, BaiKu has come to life. The restaurant is now open for dinner and will offer lunch service beginning Oct. 6.

The sushi menu is extensive. It features specialty nigiri and sashimi, Hawaiian fish flown in daily, a selection of eight specialty rolls and unique chilled appetizers. The sushi bar is manned by BaiKu’s executive sushi chef, Soung Min Lee, formerly sushi chef at Miso as well as Central Table Food Hall. Joining Lee behind the counter is his brother, sous chef Soung Ho Lee.

Hot dishes at BaiKu are prepared in the kitchen at Triumph Grill, which adjoins the first floor of the hotel. Warm appetizers include creatively prepared bites like lobster shumai (Chinese-style dumplings), lettuce cups holding steamed Hawaiian blue prawns and steamed buns. Larger plates feature Korean-style hanger steak, Alaskan salmon and Hawaiian snapper.

BaiKu offers a variety of noodle dishes; guests can choose between soba, udon or ramen, the latter made locally by Midwest Pasta Co. The hot food menu was developed by Triumph executive chef Josh Norris. A native of Maui, Norris said he grew up eating a number of these dishes during his youth on the island.

Premium sake headlines beverage offerings. Rounding out the drink selection are more than 50 beers – including five Japanese brews – and wines chosen for their ability to pair with sushi. Here’s what’s in store at BaiKu:

 

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-photos by Michelle Volansky

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