Hello Stranger | Login | Create Account
 
 
 
 
 
  SAUCE MAGAZINE
|
May 28, 2017
|
Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
|
SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
Email | Text-size: A | A | A

In This Issue

What I Do: Tyler Davis at Element

Monday, May 1st, 2017

050117_whatido-1

 

Tyler Davis is a details man. From crafting beautiful desserts as executive pastry chef at Element, to designing unique menus for weekly Purveyor’s Table pop-up dinners at Brennan’s, to single-handedly managing his online dessert business, Alchemy Artisan Bakery, Davis aims his self-proclaimed Type A tendencies at confections as visually stunning as they are delicious. Here, the busy sweet tooth shared about finding his passion and making it happen.

“Mom’s the strongest person I know. I didn’t have a father figure growing up – Mom was my mom and my dad. I fell into cooking because she couldn’t always be around to cook. When I was 9 or 10 I was like, ‘I don’t want to eat ramen noodles.’ I called her up and said, ‘How do you fry chicken?’ She was like, ‘Don’t burn down the house.’ She taught me over the phone and I made it.”

“She never bought us presents, but she would always ask what we wanted for our birthday meal and for me, that is the biggest way to show your love.”

“I went to school for cello. I wanted to be a classical musician. I love music, but when you start looking at grad school, auditions, and then you start to see the ratio of classical musicians that have jobs versus those that don’t have jobs and how difficult it is in that industry, I knew deep down inside I wasn’t passionate enough about that to take it to the next level.”

“My mind is always going. I like to start with an original thing and then mix and match it. We’ll have desserts on the spring menu like a cool version of an ice cream sandwich. It has taro ice cream with a matcha dacquoise and black sesame powder. It’s not your typical ice cream sandwich.”

“I started to cook on the side for a few friends to make a little extra money in college. … During that time, it was all experimentation, so anytime I would cook for my friends I was like, ‘Hey, I just saw this on Food Network – I want to try it.’ It definitely sparked a fire. That was the time when all the really cool shows came out, like ‘Top Chef.’ I had never seen anything like that – if I’m in college, I’m not going to spend $60 to $70 going out to eat, but when you see stuff on ‘Top Chef’ you’re like, ‘What is that! This is amazing.’ I became a sponge. Anything that had to do with cooking, I was about it. I watched ‘Yan Can Cook.’ I watched anything with Julia Child, Jacques Pépin, Anthony Bourdain, ‘Top Chef’ – Bravo! You couldn’t take me away from Bravo.”

“Alinea was overwhelming. All the courses were phenomenal, but the dessert course stood out – it was a chocolate dish. It had chocolate soil, chocolate rocks, chocolate creme brulee that was a liquid before and they poured it in a ring mold, took [it] off and it was already set and I was like, ‘I don’t even know what’s happening right now!’”

“You can’t be afraid to fail, because it’s going to happen. It’s definitely going to happen. One time I tried to bake – oh my God, it was horrible – this really, really cool pie crust. I wanted it to be cookie crust. I don’t know what I was thinking. … I ended up using baking soda instead of baking powder, and it completely went everywhere and flooded out the oven. But you can’t be afraid to try new things.”

 

Photo by Ashley Gieseking

Meera Nagarajan is art director at Sauce Magazine.

Related Content
Sauce Magazine: May 2017

What I Do: Patrick Olds of Louie’s Wine Dive

The Scoop: Josh Charles leaves Element, heads to Blood & Sand

 

Make This: Arepas

Monday, May 1st, 2017

050117_makethis

 

This tortilla-pancake lovechild can be sliced and filled or topped with just about anything.

In a medium bowl, combine 2 cups warm water, 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and 1 teaspoon kosher salt and stir until the salt dissolves. Gradually add 2 cups masarepa (arepa flour, available at most international groceries), stirring constantly 1 minute. Cover the bowl with a towel and let rest 10 minutes.

Divide the dough into 8 equal portions and shape into 5-inch patties, ½-inch thick.

Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, brush lightly with vegetable oil, add 4 arepas and cook until golden brown with some charred spots, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Let cool on a wire rack and repeat with the remaining arepas.

Top with:
• Butter and agave

• Guacamole and cojita cheese

• Black beans and hot sauce

• Carnitas or barbacoa

• Nutella and crushed peanuts

 

Photo by Julia Calleo

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine who also writes the online recipe column, Just Five.

Related Content
Sauce Magazine: May 2017

Just Five: Pork Chops with Peppers Confit

Make This: Speedy Mac n Cheese

Eat This: Brisket Mac at Farmtruk

Monday, May 1st, 2017

 

050117_eatthis

 

Farmtruk’s Brisket Mac combines the best of a backyard barbecue in one paper basket. Fat rigatoni noodles are drowned in cheddar cheese sauce, a generous handful of braised brisket and a drizzle of sweet chipotle barbecue. It’s all finished with a sprinkle of crushed Red Hot Riplets and fresh slivers of green onion. Best paired with sunglasses and a lawn chair on a warm day.

Photo by Carmen Troesser

Catherine Klene is managing editor, digital at Sauce Magazine.

Related Content
Sauce Magazine: May 2017

The Scoop: Farmtruk’s Samantha Mitchell named executive chef at The Libertine

Best New Food Trucks: Farmtruk

 

Eat This: Lobster turnovers at Sidney Street Cafe

Saturday, April 1st, 2017

040117_eatthis

 

The Lobster Turnovers at Sidney Street Cafe are a study in richness. Sweet pieces of lobster are wrapped in flaky filo dough, brushed with clarified butter and baked until golden. If that wasn’t enough, they’re finished with a cream sauce infused with San Marzano tomatoes, brandy, tarragon and a hint of chipotle, Tabasco and cayenne for a subtle kick. Class dismissed.

Photo by Carmen Troesser

Related Content

James Beard Foundation names Kevin Nashan, Kevin Willmann Best Chef: Midwest finalists 

The Scoop: Kevin Nashan to launch new food program at 4 Hands

The Scoop: Sidney Street Cafe pastry chef Robert Zugmaier nominated for The People’s Best New Pastry Chef by Food & Wine

Make This: Speedy Mac and Cheese

Saturday, April 1st, 2017

040117_makethis

 

There’s a happy medium between the blue box and a fussy bechamel. Thanks to some inspiration from Serious Eats, gourmet mac and cheese just made the weeknight menu. To a medium saucepan, add 1½ cups elbow macaroni and enough water or stock to just cover the pasta, about 2½ cups. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring frequently until almost all the liquid is absorbed, 6 to 7 minutes. Stir in 1 12-ounce can evaporated milk and bring back to a boil. Stir in 1½ cups grated sharp cheddar and ¼ cup grated Parmesan until completely melted and smooth, about 2 minutes. Serve immediately.

Photo by Julia Calleo

Related Content

Make This: Shrimp Roll

• Just Five: Guinness Beer Bread

Just Five: Onion Jam

Hit List: 3 places you must try this April

Saturday, April 1st, 2017

040117_hitlist3

 

1. Vicia: 4260 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9239, viciarestaurant.com

After more than a year of anticipation, pop-ups and special events, doors have finally opened at Vicia in the Cortex Innovation Community. Veterans of New York’s acclaimed Blue Hill at Stone Barns, owners Michael and Tara Gallina focus on vegetable-forward, seasonally driven cuisine. To that end, the menu is flexible, letting farm-fresh ingredients dictate the day’s dishes. Take a leisurely lunch break at Vicia’s sun-drenched dining room to mix-and-match from a short list of meticulous dishes. Our tartine featured a thick slice of house-made porridge bread topped with butternut squash sofrito, marinated kale and oyster mushrooms, while the grain salad tucked a mix of wheat berries, rye and farro under shaved carrots, daikon and a rainbow of radishes with dollops of goat cheese sauce and pesto made from radish and turnip tops. Indulge with a quiche – ours included earthy shiitake mushrooms, spinach and leeks nestled in a fluffy, rich filling – but don’t forget to save room for dessert. A buttery turnover shattered at first bite, revealing sweet kumquat and ricotta. At press time, only lunch service was available, but based on that experience, we’ll eagerly make our dinner reservations.

 

2. Two Plumbers Brewery & Arcade: 2236 First Capitol Drive, St. Charles, 636.224.8626, twoplumbers.com

Two Plumbers Brewery & Arcade is as simple as a place named for Mario and Luigi should be: just 10 taps and more than 30 arcade games. The 21-and-older brewery currently offers a couple of its beers (keep an eye out for Ermac Irish red IPA and Braunenmantel American brown ale) and is brewing more to add alongside taps pouring the likes of Schlafly, Founders and Crown Valley. Bring in food (or order a Dan O’s frozen pizza from the bar), grab a pour and drop some quarters to play old-school favorites like Dungeons & Dragons, Time Crisis II and, of course, Super Mario Bros.

 

040117_hitlist1

 

 

3. Snax Gastrobar: 3500 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.353.9463, snaxstl.com

And now for something completely different from the minds behind Robust Wine Bar. Instead of extensive wine lists and small plates, fill up with comfort food at Snax Gastrobar. Try the messy, delectable burger (two smash patties piled with cheese, bacon, a mayo-based Snax Sauce and the usual accoutrements), or pick up the Reuben, featuring a balance of house-cured smoked pastrami and sauerkraut. Prefer a knife and fork? Order the simple roasted chicken; a boned breast is seared for crisp skin and juicy, tender meat, all piled atop braised beans with rich shiitake mushrooms and bright lemon-garlic jus.

 

Photos by Michelle Volansky

Related Content

 • Sneak Peek: Vicia in Midtown

• Sneak Peek: Two Plumbers Brewery & Arcade in St. Charles

Sneak Peek: Snax Gastrobar in Lindenwood Park

What I Do: Patrick Olds of Louie’s Wine Dive

Saturday, April 1st, 2017

032817_patrick

 

In 2010, Patrick Olds was contemplating going to law school while serving at the Four Seasons, with wine knowledge limited to the color of the liquid in the bottle. The 27-year-old beverage director and general manager of Louie’s Wine Dive has learned a few things since then. After countless hours studying for his advanced sommelier certification, a rigorous exam that focuses on theory, blind tasting and serving some of the best in the business, Olds passed in March. Here, Clayton’s wine prodigy shares his thoughts on tasting, testing and the can’t-miss glass on Louie’s ever-changing wine board.

Learning Curve
“My parents never drank wine growing up. When I first started at the Four Seasons, I didn’t know the difference between riesling and merlot.”

Tasting 101
“The best way to tell the quality of a wine is to swish it around in your mouth like mouthwash – really get it in every avenue – then swallow it and tell me what you think.”

Bipolar
“When you go six-for-six, there’s nothing really that tops that amount of euphoria: You just blind-tasted six wines in 25 minutes, and you nailed them. But if you go one out of six, there’s nothing that will bring you down faster. It’s a little polarizing.”

Song and Dance
“If you’re a trial lawyer, you’re up and performing the way that you may be in service situations. I feel like I’m a decent performer. I feel like I do well in those situations. In addition, all those things that you learn – all the laws throughout Missouri and federal laws – I’m learning laws in different languages from around the world. The only thing that’s really different is that part of my test is drinking wine.”

Next-level Service
“I went to Sepia [in Chicago]. … Everything about the dining experience was exquisite. … If a server is doing their job at a high level, their head is on a swivel and they’re looking around all the time, so they’ll see people looking up. Immediately, I was always approached. Drinks were never empty, water was never empty, the table was spotless. It was just pristine.”

Insider Tip
“I will always have a GC riesling up on the board – GC means grand cru. Those don’t sell as much, but anyone that gets a glass of that, they’re always so amazed. … If I ever have a chance to drink anything really special, it’s GC riesling. It’s a sommelier’s dream.”

Photo by Ashley Gieseking

Related Content

The Scoop: Louie’s Wine Dive to open location in Clayton

Reviews: Louie’s Wine Dive

Super Somms: St. Louis’ top wine students prepare to hold court

Guide to Beer 2017: One Glass to Rule Them All

Wednesday, March 1st, 2017

glass_mar17

 

Different beers have their own styles of glassware for a reason, but few of us have enough space or money to buy a full portfolio of beer glasses. Keep things simple by enjoying your next brew in a wine glass. The standard shape – wider at the bottom and narrow at the top – helps focus aromatics, which will enhance your enjoyment of most styles, especially if you don’t fill it as high as Tammy Taylor.

2nd Shift Brewing Co. co-owner Libby Crider especially likes to use wine glasses for barrel-aged beers, which tend to be more delicate. “They’re great for beers you want to treat like wines,” she said. “You can swirl, aerate and really get the whole experience.”

 Photo by Jonathan Gayman

Related Content
Sauce Magazine: Guide to Beer 2017

Guide to Beer 2017: Get festive with STL beer fests

Guide to Beer 2017: Class of 2017

Guide to Beer 2017: Get festive with STL beer fests

Wednesday, March 1st, 2017

festivals_mar17

 

Grab your calendar, prepare your liver and save the dates – St. Louis is awash in beer festivals this year.

FestivAle
March 4, Delmar Hall, St. Louis, festivalestl.com
More than 30 regional breweries descend on FestivAle from Point Labaddie Brewery to Charleville Brewery. Fill your glass, then grab bites from Wicked Greenz, Bogart’s Smokehouse and more. This event is sold out.

Schlafly Stout and Oyster Festival
March 10 and 11, Schlafly Tap Room, schlafly.com/stoutandoyster
Choose from 15 Schlafly stouts and a selection of small-batch, experimental options, then enter the Shuckerdome and watch pros battle it out, shucking oysters at lightning speed. Free admission.

Ales for Tails Homebrew Festival
March 25, American Czech Educational Center, St. Louis, stlpivo.com
Dozens of homebrewers share their concoctions to benefit local animal nonprofits alongside artisans selling handmade pet toys and cookies. Tickets available online.

Lupulin Carnival
April 1, Midway at Union Station, St. Louis, lupulincarnival.com
4 Hands Brewing brings down the War Hammer, its annual Imperial IPA. Take a turn on the Ferris wheel and super slide, and sip beers from 65 local and national breweries, including heavy-hitters like Toppling Goliath. Tickets available online.

Mile Marker 68.3 Bier Fest
April 29, Missouri Riverfront, Washington, Facebook: Mile Marker 68.3 Bier Fest
Friendship Brewing, Standard Brewing, Trailhead Brewing and more than 20 others come out to support Missouri River Relief. Not a beer fan? Sip samples from distilleries like Pinckney Bend and Wood Hat. Tickets available at John G’s Bierdeck or online.

St. Louis Microfest
May 5 and 6, Forest Park, St. Louis, stlmicrofest.org
This two-day festival has three sessions to sample around 125 international and craft breweries like 4204 Main Street Brewing. Tickets available online.

Indihop
May 20, The Grove and Cherokee Street, indihopstl.com
Shuttle between two of St. Louis’ more eclectic neighborhoods and taste up to 50 local beers at participating shops, bars and breweries. Tickets available online.

Heritage Festival
June 3, Gateway Arch, St. Louis, stlbeer.org
Sample more than 100 brews from members of the St. Louis Brewers Guild and end your evening with fireworks above the Arch. Tickets will be available online.

St. Louis Craft Beer Week
July 28 to Aug. 5, St. Louis, stlbeerweek.com
This ninth annual festival spans the city and county with more than 100 events including the Midwest Belgian Beer Fest, tap takeovers, classes and beer dinners. Schedule and tickets will be available online.

Schlafly Hop in the City
Sept. 16, Schlafly Tap Room, St. Louis, schlafly.com/hop
Hop to Schlafly Tap Room to sample nearly all Schlafly’s extensive portfolio, including special-release brews. Tickets will be available online.

Augusta Bottoms Beer Festival
Oct. 7, Augusta, augustabottomsbeerfest.com
It’s a party on the flood plains at Augusta Brewing Co.’s annual festival. Last year’s event included nearly 40 breweries. Tickets available online.

St. Louis Brewers Guild Halloween Party
Oct. 28, Lafayette Park, St. Louis, stlbeer.org
Don your favorite costume and trick or treat with St. Louis brewers. Previous years’ festivities included a costume contest and a Hefe Ride (a hayride with a keg). Tickets will be available online.

The Great St. Louis Czech Beer Festival
Dec. 9, American Czech Educational Center, St. Louis, stlpivo.com
Last year, nearly two dozen breweries offered their iterations of the Czech Pilsner at this celebration of the clean lager style. Tickets will be available online.

 

Editor’s note: At the time of publication, tickets were still available for FestivAle. It has since sold out. The online version of this article has been updated with the most current information. 

Catherine Klene and Brianna Velarde contributed to this article. 

Illustration by Vidhya Nagarajan

Related Content
Sauce Magazine: Guide to Beer 2017

Guide to Beer 2017: One Glass to Rule Them All

Guide to Beer 2017: Class of 2017

 

Hit List: 4 places you must try this March

Wednesday, March 1st, 2017

hitlist_mar17_2

 

1. Boardwalk Waffles & Ice Cream: 7326B Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.449.1209, boardwalkwaffles.com

A hug can turn your day around, especially when it’s a Belgian waffle wrapping itself around Serendipity ice cream. Head to Boardwalk Waffles & Ice Cream in Maplewood for the embrace you need. The sweet waffles are made to order, and their crisp edges and fluffy interior pair perfectly with classic Salty Caramel Swirl. Go big with a full order (two whole waffles sandwiching four scoops) and share the love. Naked waffles and solo scoops are also available for those with waffle-ice cream relationship issues.

2. Balkan Treat Box: balkantreatbox.comTwitter: @BalkanTreatBox

It’s worth the effort to find Balkan Treat Box as it slowly rolls into the St. Louis food scene. A wood-fired oven roars inside the bright red and aqua truck, which turns out classic dishes from the Balkan Peninsula. Try the rich, chargrilled beef sausage cevapi served in a fluffy pita pocket-like somun with kaymak (a rich dairy condiment similar to labneh) and ajvar (a slightly spicy roasted red pepper-eggplant sauce). And order more pide than you think you need. The Turkish wood-fired flatbreads are addictive, topped with thick, bubbly layer of cheese and optional sliced smoked beef sausage.

 

hitlist_mar17_1

 

3. The Blue Duck: 2661 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.769.9940, blueduckstl.com

After making a splash in Washington, The Blue Duck has added a second location in Maplewood. The menu ranges from soups, salads and hearty sandwiches like the DLT, made with smoked duck instead of the usual bacon on house-made sourdough bread, to classic supper plates like mac and cheese swimming with cheddar-fontina sauce livened up by a swirl of braised short rib marmalade and a crunchy herbed bread crumb topping. Order the savory seared scallops, which come doused in bloody mary sauce with braised bacon over a creamy celery root puree.

4. STL French Quarter: stlfrenchquarter.com, Twitter: @STLGumboGuy

STL French Quarter food truck has hit the road just in time for Mardi Gras, offering a rotation of Cajun and Creole classics and New Orleans-inspired dishes. Start with a bowl of dark gumbo thick with shredded pork and chicken. Or try the lighter, tomato-based jambalaya studded with red beans and andouille. Whichever you choose, you’ll need a wedge of a savory jalapeno-cheddar cornbread waffle for dipping. And save room for The French Quarter Po’Boy. Thin slices of tender roast pork and salty Tasso ham are smothered in rich Cajun gravy accented with piquant Creole mustard aioli, held in a split hoagie to sop up the juices.

Photos by Michelle Volansky

RSS FEEDS
Keep up with one or all of your favorite Sauce Magazine columns
Conceived and created by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC 1999-2017, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Sauce Magazine 1820 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, Missouri 63103.
PH: 314-772-8004 FAX: 314-241-8004