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May 01, 2017
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Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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What I Do

What I Do: Patrick Olds of Louie’s Wine Dive

Saturday, April 1st, 2017

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In 2010, Patrick Olds was contemplating going to law school while serving at the Four Seasons, with wine knowledge limited to the color of the liquid in the bottle. The 27-year-old beverage director and general manager of Louie’s Wine Dive has learned a few things since then. After countless hours studying for his advanced sommelier certification, a rigorous exam that focuses on theory, blind tasting and serving some of the best in the business, Olds passed in March. Here, Clayton’s wine prodigy shares his thoughts on tasting, testing and the can’t-miss glass on Louie’s ever-changing wine board.

Learning Curve
“My parents never drank wine growing up. When I first started at the Four Seasons, I didn’t know the difference between riesling and merlot.”

Tasting 101
“The best way to tell the quality of a wine is to swish it around in your mouth like mouthwash – really get it in every avenue – then swallow it and tell me what you think.”

Bipolar
“When you go six-for-six, there’s nothing really that tops that amount of euphoria: You just blind-tasted six wines in 25 minutes, and you nailed them. But if you go one out of six, there’s nothing that will bring you down faster. It’s a little polarizing.”

Song and Dance
“If you’re a trial lawyer, you’re up and performing the way that you may be in service situations. I feel like I’m a decent performer. I feel like I do well in those situations. In addition, all those things that you learn – all the laws throughout Missouri and federal laws – I’m learning laws in different languages from around the world. The only thing that’s really different is that part of my test is drinking wine.”

Next-level Service
“I went to Sepia [in Chicago]. … Everything about the dining experience was exquisite. … If a server is doing their job at a high level, their head is on a swivel and they’re looking around all the time, so they’ll see people looking up. Immediately, I was always approached. Drinks were never empty, water was never empty, the table was spotless. It was just pristine.”

Insider Tip
“I will always have a GC riesling up on the board – GC means grand cru. Those don’t sell as much, but anyone that gets a glass of that, they’re always so amazed. … If I ever have a chance to drink anything really special, it’s GC riesling. It’s a sommelier’s dream.”

Photo by Ashley Gieseking

Related Content

The Scoop: Louie’s Wine Dive to open location in Clayton

Reviews: Louie’s Wine Dive

Super Somms: St. Louis’ top wine students prepare to hold court

What I Do: Justin Harris and Ryan Griffin of Saint Louis Hop Shop

Wednesday, March 1st, 2017

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Brothers Justin Harris and Ryan Griffin want to talk to you about beer. They’ve set up their Saint Louis Hop Shop with that in mind: choosing the foot traffic-heavy Cherokee Street neighborhood, hosting beer events and offering a short menu of pours to enjoy while you peruse their shelves of carefully selected bottles. Here, the brothers of beer talk family, community and Cherokee Street.

In it Together

“One benefit that comes [from working with family] is understanding – like understanding who they are as a person. I grew up with him; he grew up with me. I know who he is; he knows who I am.” – R.G.

“We get along pretty well – we always have. I think it goes back to what Ryan was saying: We know what to expect from each other, both good and bad. I know I do things that drive him crazy, and he could say the same thing. But at the end of the day, there’s comfort in knowing that you’ve got somebody who’s family – that’s my brother, you know.” – J.H.

Gateway Beer

“It was Boulevard 80-Acre, if I’m not mistaken … a hoppy wheat beer. It was so much different from [Natty Light] – it was no comparison. That’s when I realized that it wasn’t about drinking beer until you can’t drink anymore. I could have one or two after class, and that would be it for the night.” – J.H.

St. Louis on the Rise

“Opening this store has opened my eyes to things outside of what I was familiar with: different people, different ideas, different backgrounds and how St. Louis is coming together, investing in small communities. … People are accepting of new, fresh ideas and I feel like St. Louis is undergoing a renaissance.” – R.G.

Price of Entry

“The cool thing about the beer industry is that for the most part you’re dealing with a lot of like-minded people. … Events have been a key staple of who we are – the culture of the store – because you really get to engage with people past, like, ‘That’ll be $9.99.’ … No beer unless you talk to us.” – J.H.

Candy Crush

“I’m into stouts, and I’d say brown beers, porters, brown ales. … I’m like a candy fiend. I have a big sweet tooth. I’m really into chocolate, something that’s more hearty … those things that lather your tongue with sweetness.” – R.G.

Cherokee Street

“Cherokee Street is a very vibrant place, and people want to be down here. … It’s a great energy. And I feel like it’s a huge support system, between us and other businesses. A lot of stuff in our store came from Antique Row. I go to Byrd & Barrel like every other day. We get coffee at Foam all the time. … You just feel like you’re a part of something when you walk up and down the street.” – R.G.

Photo by Izaiah Johnson

What I Do: Meredith and Rick Schaper of Dogtown Pizza

Wednesday, February 1st, 2017

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Rick and Meredith Schaper had big plans in 2006: open a pizzeria serving St. Louis-style pies. But when the economy started to decline, the Schapers had to try another strategy. Today, more than 300 retailers carry frozen Dogtown Pizza, each handmade and flash-frozen at their warehouse in North City. Here, the Schapers tell how their business thrived in a tanking economy – and why they’ll never move to West County.

The Early Years
“The only pizza I had until I was 14 was Imo’s. My first sleepover, we had Domino’s with pepperoni, and I didn’t know what either one of them was. For us, [pizza] was a special occasion. We went and sat at Imo’s – we didn’t even get carryout.” – M.S.

“The real core of me is Farotto’s Pizza in Rock Hill. I started there when I was 11 and worked there until I was 21, so I had 10 years in a pizzeria. Literally, you’re at the most influential stage of your life from 11 to 21. That was my life. I didn’t think I’d do anything but work at that place. I was already the kid that hung out with my mom in the kitchen. [There are] stories of me on a stool, licking the strings off the roast beef.” – R.S. 

A Rough Start
“We invited some investors and tried to throw a party to raise money for a restaurant, and we got zero dollars. … It was right when [the economy] was crumbling. In our first year being in the frozen business, restaurants closed left and right. … The good fluke was people stopped going out to eat and grocery shopped more, and that’s where we were – in the grocery stores.” – R.S.

“Talk about trial and error. The first batch of labels weren’t coded so that the ink wouldn’t run in the freezer. We didn’t know to tell [the printer] that. When we said we were putting it on a pizza, we thought they knew!” – M.S.

Dogtown or Die
“Everybody asks, ‘When are you moving out to Chesterfield?’ Never – I’m staying in my nice cozy brick home in Dogtown. … My parents met and dated in Dogtown. My mom grew up and went to grade school at St. James the Greater and got married at St. James the Greater in the ’50s, and our first house is on the same street as my parents’ first house. … It’s still in the city, it’s close to everything, and the community and people are just tight-knit.” – R.S.

Long Live Pepperoni
“I hate plain cheese pizza. I hate my own cheese pizza. It just feels like it’s unfinished. It makes no sense to me.” – R.S.

“It’s like ordering a Jack and Coke and getting a glass of ice.” – M.S.

Dogtown Pizzeria?
“There’s a really strong fire inside me that still wants [to open a restaurant] because I enjoyed it, but then I go back to the risk of restaurants, the hours, the toll on your body and I say no way. … I’m not saying I couldn’t make it work – of course, in my mind I know I could – but there’s still a risk.”– R.S.

Photo by Kat Niehaus

Related Content
• Sauce Magazine: February 2017

The Scoop: Dogtown Pizza to move operations to support “serious growth”

 

What I Do: Dana Huth and Ben Triola of Mauhaus Cat Cafe and Lounge

Sunday, January 1st, 2017

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There’s a small island off the coast of southern Japan so overrun with cats that it makes internet cat videos look like a cheap ball of yarn. But before you start booking expensive airfare, try relaxing at Mauhaus Cat Cafe and Lounge, a new spot that caters to felines and the good people who endlessly share their memes. Co-owners Dana Huth and Ben Triola opened the cafe as a space where people can leisurely bond with and potentially adopt the animals while enjoying lunch or fresh pastries. They also co-own a software company, video game development studio and real estate investments, but said that helping animals in need is worth the stress – and the cat snuggles don’t hurt, either. Here, the couple talk about why a cat makes for a programmer’s best friend.

Getting Attached
“Basically, we’re like a big foster family for these cats, except that we also serve coffee and food. … The adoptions can be a little tough on us but ultimately it’s a very happy thing to find these cats a good home. We partner with Tenth Life Cat Rescue and they have over 100 cats in foster homes, but right now they’re almost at capacity. If we can help get cats adopted, that means Tenth Life can take in more.” –B.T.

“The cat cafes in Asia are full of specialty cats, and they’re not adoptable. Every time you go, you see the same cats. But we knew that was a problem here – so many cats need homes and so many get killed at shelters every year. … I cried when the last ones that got adopted left. I had a very special connection to those cats. But it’s so good; they have great homes.” –D.H.

Cat Magic
“We were not at all planning on opening another business until we went to this cat cafe in Thailand. We were like, ‘We have to have this at home.’ What was most magical about it was not that there were cats, but that there were so many. It’s not like going into someone’s house who has three cats. To see like 15 cats living in a space, and you get to come in, be surrounded – you get to experience their home. … And to have really nice food, that was definitely a bonus.” –D.H.

Bring on the Fun
“This is talked about a lot in the game development industry: fun is really hard to plan for. It can be really elusive … you don’t know on paper if XYZ is going to be fun, so you have to build something and then play with it and then go back and figure out which parts were fun and which weren’t. There’s a lot of iteration. We call it ‘finding the fun.’ I think that’s kind of what we’re trying to do with the cat cafe – find the fun and share it with other people.” –B.T.

Cuteness Overload
“Any morning we come into the cafe, it’s basically a stampede of cats coming toward the door to all get attention.” –D.H.

Cat Therapy
“There’s this thing in programming, where if you have a problem you’re supposed to get a rubber duck and explain the problem to the rubber duck. In the course of explaining the problem out loud, you usually find the solution. But I think you can use the cats just as well – explain your problems to the cat and you might just figure some things out.” –B.T.

Interoffice Romance
“I feel really lucky that this is our life. It works really well for us because we’ve known each other so long, we think on the same wavelength. I think for a lot of people that could be difficult – spending that much time with your significant other, but I really wouldn’t have it any other way. We’ve worked with a lot of people, had other partners, and it’s not that any of those were necessarily bad, but I’ve never been able to communicate with anyone better than I can communicate with Dana. It makes sense that we do pretty much all things together.” –B.T.

 

Heather Hughes and Kevin Korinek contributed to this article. 

Photo by Ashley Gieseking 

Related Content
Sauce Magazine: January 2017

First Look: Mauhaus Cat Cafe and Lounge in Maplewood

What I Do: Doug Marshall, The Tamale Man

What I Do: Mark “Garlic” Brown of Gateway Garlic Farms 

What I Do: Doug Marshall, The Tamale Man

Wednesday, November 30th, 2016

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{ from left, Rachel Rogers and her father, Doug Marshall }

 

When Marisa Marshall decided to take up organic farming, her husband Doug Marshall figured the best way to get a foot in the door at local farmers markets was by offering prepared food. Now, most Marshall Family Farms produce is sold in tamale form, and you probably know him as The Tamale Man – dishing out family recipes with three of their seven children and one son-in-law at private events, Southwest Diner’s Tamale Tuesdays and farmers markets from Tower Grove to Lake St. Louis. Here, the boss dad shared his perspective on family business.

Aztec Hot Pockets
“[Tamales have] been around for centuries. We tell people it’s like the original Hot Pocket. They were already wrapped, and they traveled easily. The Aztecs, when they went on hunting parties, cooked a bunch of them.”

Christmas tradition
“[Tamales were a] Christmas present from my grandmas, every year. My mom passed away when I was 9 and my dad married another woman, who was half Mexican, half Cuban. So I basically grew up with two Mexican grandmothers. That was always a blast, [making] the tamales. I would help. When you got to driving age, you had to take them shopping. We went to the Soulard [Farmers] Market because they had to get the fresh stuff. There was a process. They basically pointed and told you what to do. I was trying to be nice, but yeah. They were pretty bossy.”

Family recipe
“When my grandmothers cook, they have their favorite coffee cup with the handle broken and stuff. They didn’t use tablespoons or anything. I really started from memory, and just kind of adapted it over the years to try to capture what I remember as a child.”

Skin in the game
“Family dynamics are interesting when you’re working together because everybody wants to have ownership of what you’re working on – which is a good thing. They want to be involved. I used to be ‘It’s my way or the highway,’ but for long-term success, that’s not really a good strategy. In any situation, I think if everyone has skin in the game, they’re going to be more productive.”

Proper technique
“For years, everybody boiled the meat. Now we marinate it and roast it. We take the trimmings and render our own fat and lard to use in the tamales. We make our stocks. … You’ve got to roast [the chiles], put them in a container, let them steam, clean them. [The kids] were like, ‘Can’t we just use canned chiles?’ No.”

Father of seven
“I used to try to micromanage everything. Now I try to let them figure it out. My youngest is 18, so now I like to say, ‘We’re all adults here, so figure it out.’ You can be mad at each other, but at the end of the day we’re all on the same team.”

Family Competition
“I was a former athlete and I still believe in keeping score. We have friendly competitions on Saturdays at the different markets. We compare totals and rib each other. I’ll say something like, ‘Nobody remembers second place.’ But it’s all in good fun. I’m admonished frequently. … If I have an off day, I’m kind of dour, kind of sullen about that and of course they pile on. My daughters [tell] me to be grateful, and [my son] Rudy and [son-in-law] Brian basically say, ‘Ha ha!’”

Business goals
“If you asked me the long-term goal when they were in diapers, that was my goal: That we enjoy each other’s company and like being around each other. I’d say that’s come to fruition. Marisa and I are very happy about that. There’s no black sheep thus far. They’re all really good friends.”

 

Related Content
What I Do: Mark ‘Garlic’ Brown of Gateway Garlic Farms

• What I Do: Marie-Anne Velasco of Nudo House

What I Do: Dan Brewer of Mofu

The Weekend Project: Tamales

 

Photo by Carmen Troesser

What I Do: Mark ‘Garlic’ Brown of Gateway Garlic Farms

Wednesday, November 2nd, 2016

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Gateway Garlic Farms does a lot more than operate its many farms scattered across the city and surrounding counties. It’s a locus for like-minded farmers and organic activists who swap equipment, excavate feral garlic from 19th-century homesteads and debate genetically modified organisms on Facebook. And though he said it created itself, this community could not run without Mark “Garlic” Brown’s frenetic energy and administrative gumption. In the Tao of Mark Garlic, you use what you need and give the rest away. Here, a glimpse into the mind of the man named Garlic.

Open Book
“There are some farmers who jealously hide their secrets. Me – I’m open and transparent. I’ll share with anyone. I don’t believe in competition. … We spread education like some people spread compost.”

Natural Resources
“Bioponics uses interesting things – organic things – as a growing medium: leaf compost, sawdust … We set the tunnel up every fall and use alternative growing mediums in each of the wicking beds inside there so that we can show: This is how you grow in these various mediums. Showing people you’re not limited. … You should look to what’s around you. Use what’s there. A lot of times it’s better – and it’s free.”

The Starbucks Loop
“From that Starbucks at Boundary, we’re getting what’s going to be about 10 tons a year of coffee grounds – and they would have just thrown that out, right into a landfill. We’re using that to create nitrogen so we can grow more food and then bring that food, sometimes, right back to Boundary. You get this loop effect. Because we’re going back and forth in our deliveries, there’s no extra fuel being expended. The coffee grounds come along for the ride.”

Weird (Natural) Science
“We’re going to do a grafting class, and we’re going to turn a crabapple tree into a multi-fruit-bearing tree. It’s going to have probably eight different kinds of apples and four different kinds of pears all on one tree. … It doesn’t seem natural, but these are natural things that we can do to basically broaden our food scope.”

Protecting Genetic Diversity
“When we lose something like the dodo, we fucking lose something forever. And that to me is – not on my fucking watch. I don’t want that on my watch. I want to increase diversity. I want to go out and find these lost varieties.”

Garlic Love
“We’ve got 55, 56 varieties that are what we call feral recoveries. … I can spot feral garlic from a car at 55 miles per hour. When you love something so dear like that, you create this intimate relationship with it.”

-photo by Ashley Gieseking

What I Do: Marie-Anne Velasco of Nudo House

Monday, October 10th, 2016

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After more than 15 years in Chicago fine dining and the kitchens at The Ritz-Carlton and The Chase Park Plaza, Marie-Anne Velasco will open Nudo House with Mai Lee’s Qui Tran this fall. So how does a former Canadian Culinary Olympian wind up launching a ramen shop with St. Louis’ king of pho? A shared passion for noodle perfection. Here, Velasco shares her formative ramen experiences, her hippie ways and why Nudo must have a soft serve machine.

 

St. Louis, then and now
“It’s a totally different food city. I used to live on that block between the old Niche and Sidney Street. We used to see Kevin (Nashan) all the time or we’d go to Niche for drinks before we had kids. I would just sit there and think, ‘Wow, if only these places were open (everywhere in St. Louis).’ … From five years ago to now, it’s exploded.”

Free spirits of Chesterfield
“(My husband and I) are kind of closet hippies at home. We grow our own vegetables; we make our own kombucha; we make our own yogurt. We try to make and grow everything that we can.”

Aha moment
“It was just this unctuous, thick – it didn’t even feel like broth but everyone was calling it broth, and the noodles were chewy and the egg was custardy. Everything was just a perfect scenario of a food experience. It’s weird when you have that first experience. You just try and chase it.”

Ramen Revolution
“Ippudo (a New York City ramen restaurant) reset my brain, too. After working in all these different ramen places and getting to know the ingredients and the bones and what the procedures are, we sat down at this place and I went, ‘Wait a minute – I don’t know how they did this.’”

Screaming for ice cream
“I’m so excited about it! When you’re in Little Tokyo in Los Angeles after you go and have ramen, you have to go and have soft serve because it isn’t just soft serve. It’s like green tea, it’s like mango, it’s like coconut – all the things you think go hand in hand with Japanese flavors. That salty richness needs a balance between citrus and something sweet.”

Hungry business partners
“(Qui and I) are very meticulous about what we want and how we want it done. At the same time we both have an open mindset. We’re both easygoing, but at the same time, we want it done properly. … And we both have appetites that are never-ending. It’s almost embarrassing.”

-photo by Ashley Gieseking

What I Do: Dan Brewer of Mofu

Thursday, September 8th, 2016

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You may not know Dan Brewer’s name, but you’ve seen his Missouri-sourced tofu on dishes from Revel Kitchen to Mission Taco Joint. However, producing Mofu is only part of his resume. His love of art, food and nutrition came together when he became a full-time chef-instructor in the Department of Nutrition and Dietetics at Saint Louis University, where he pushes his students to recognize not only the nutritional breakdown of food, but also the artistry.

 
From art classes to the kitchen
“Once I got into food, I felt like that was my medium. It’s what I understand and what I can speak with. … (When I was a kid) I didn’t understand what food was or what I wanted it to be. Fine dining to me was going to brunch at the Adam’s Mark Hotel downtown, shit people don’t even do anymore.”

On not wanting to be a personal chef
“I’m not good at motivating people. Getting people to make lifestyle changes – that’s the kind of work I was doing initially – I had a really hard time being patient. I was like, ‘Why aren’t you motivated? Just make a decision.’”

First time making tofu
“(In grad school), I ended up having the research question, ‘What would global flavors be like in St. Louis if we were to be exclusively local?’ so we only use local ingredients. …  (When we made tofu), we were watching YouTube videos from China and (a friend) was translating for me because we couldn’t find any good information on how to make tofu here.”

Academic freedom
“(SLU) is not a traditional culinary school, so its not as regimented. There’s more room for philosophical approaches to examining things.”

Playing with his food
“I feel like I’m more of a chef than a tofu manufacturer. I think my work at SLU really influences my business. It’s like a studio for me to do all these things and I do it with students and share it with them. We’ve been fermenting cantaloupe (in crème fraiche). … It (tasted) kind of cheesy. The flavor is very concentrated, like cantaloupe times 10.”

Opening minds
“So many (college students’) thought processes and belief systems are based off what their parents raised them to believe. I feel like my job isn’t to coerce them away from that, but to open their eyes to what else exists in the world. I take that really seriously. … And I do that through food.”

-photo by Ashley Gieseking

What I Do: Nick Blue of Sardella

Tuesday, August 2nd, 2016

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Gerard Craft’s text message asked for a vegetarian dish, done Niche-style. Unbeknownst to Nick Blue, he was in the preliminary stages of a job interview for executive chef of Sardella, the concept that will replace Niche, Craft’s first restaurant and the one that earned him St. Louis’ first James Beard Foundation Award. Blue certainly has the resume to head up Sardella when it opens later this month. He began working with Craft in 2009, bouncing around between Brasserie, Niche and Taste before working his way up to executive chef of Brasserie. Here, Blue shares what he’s learned so far in the Niche Food Group.
 

First week on 
the job
“I was walking through the (old Niche) dining room carrying two cases of eggs by the handles and … one bottom fell out and the whole case just breaks in the middle of the dining room. … I was like, ‘Oh God, this is my first true professional kitchen.’”

From-scratch kitchen
“(Brasserie) was a well-oiled machine already. … To start over from scratch – it’s been a little nerve-wracking, to say the least. I’ve never done this before. I don’t know what to do every single time, but I try to make that call and ask for forgiveness later.”

Attitude adjustment
“The whole kitchen culture (at Sardella) is changing. … We can go back to having fun and start cooking the food that’s why we started cooking. It’s going to be a little more casual (than Niche).”

Most important meal of the day
“I’m a breakfast fan, but not at breakfast hours. Recently the Sardella kitchen management team has been hooked on Original Pancake House in Ladue. We get the breakfast sandwiches to go. It’s on sourdough with egg, ham and I add American cheese.”

His sweeter half
“When (my wife, Sardella pastry chef Sarah Osborn and I) cook (at home), we both do it. I’ll do something savory, and she’ll do something pastry. … I have a huge sweet tooth. The two things I usually ask for are tres leches cake or a strawberry-rhubarb pie.”

Retirement plans
“My dream retirement job is to have a taco stand on the beach – somewhere in Key West probably. … I came up with that big plan after a few drinks at Big Star (in Chicago). I was eating their fish tacos and I was like, You know what? I’m going to live on a beach one day and retire and make fish tacos. And Sarah wants to do adult popsicles.”

-photo by Ashley Gieseking

What I Do: Phil Jarvis

Thursday, July 7th, 2016

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If you dine out in St. Louis, you’re probably a fan of Phil Jarvis’ work – you just don’t know it yet. Jarvis is a local artist, muralist and sign painter, carefully identifying hundreds of restaurants, bars and tattoo shops in the U.S. and dozens more around the world. In the industry 40 years, his elegant hand-painted lettering and mural work grace establishments from Sugarfire Smoke House and Sauce on the Side to Sump Coffee and Reeds American Table, each signed with his name and a bearded profile. Here, Jarvis shared why some signs stand the test of time.

 

First impressions
“A hand-painted sign better represents who they are as a shop or restaurant because they are one unique place. … The sign is really the first impression people get when they walk into a place. … (Owners) are very conscientious about every part of the product. I think a sign done by hand represents that same sort of mentality.”

More than graphic design
“I’m not really fond of just doing straight-up Helvetica or regular block font. Mainly because a computer can do that. What’s the point? I try to embellish it with shadows and highlights, make it look more 3-D, put some flourishments around it.”

Better with age
“Vinyl doesn’t get more character as it gets older; it looks old and worn out. But you can look at (a hand-painted sign) and almost tell how old it is and see the brush strokes as it gets older.”

Clarity and art
“I learned pretty quickly that a sign is not meant to be ambiguous. If the sign says ‘Turn right,’ and there’s an arrow, you don’t want them to contemplate what the meaning of ‘right’ is. … On the other hand, when I come home and paint, the opposite is true. … (My art is) supposed to be something that they contemplate.”

Sign painting renaissance
“It’s definitely taken a surge upward. There’s lots of kids in their 20s wanting to learn how to paint signs. … There are not a lot of avenues for artists these days to do things by hand. Everything is done on a computer: graphic design, all the illustrations, even signs. The only two industries left really are tattoos and sign painting.”

Worldwide clientele
“I can’t call myself worldwide until I’ve got four continents, and I’ve only got three so far. Australia or southern Africa, either one of those would be fine. I’m not so fond of Antarctica … but if I were invited, I’d go down and paint one sign.”

-photo by Ashley Gieseking

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