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Nov 26, 2014
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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Archive for October, 2011

Just Five: Horseradish-Encrusted Filet

Monday, October 31st, 2011

103111_justfiveI am a condiment hoarder. I’m not entirely proud of the fact that I have three different kinds of sweet chile sauce, six mustards and more half-empty bottles of salad dressing than a salad bar at Sweet Tomatoes. But that’s how it is.

Every year before St. Patrick’s Day, I buy a jar of horseradish sauce for my corned beef. I use approximately two tablespoons, place it in the freezer and bring it out again for my Fourth of July Bloody Mary.

Horseradish pairs so well with beef and, in this recipe, the sweet roasted garlic and Panko bread crumbs tame the heat of this fiery condiment. It’s not too spicy to serve to kids, but feel free to add a bit more horseradish if serving to strictly adults. This dish was inspired by a wonderful recipe from Cook’s Illustrated that calls for chateaubriand. Beef tenderloin would work beautifully as well, just double the ingredients. Now, what to do with that bottle of Green Goddess salad dressing that seemed like such a good idea?

Horseradish-Encrusted Filet
Adapted by Dee Ryan from a recipe originally published in Cook’s Illustrated

3 to 4 Servings

3 to 5 cloves garlic (unpeeled)
Olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/3 cup Panko bread crumbs
1 tsp. herbes de Provence
1/3 cup prepared horseradish, drained
1 6-oz. petite filet beef

• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
• Place the garlic cloves in a foil packet, drizzle with a bit of olive oil and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Wrap tightly and place in the oven for 20 minutes.
• Remove from the oven and, when cool enough to handle, squeeze the roasted garlic into a small mixing bowl. Smash the roasted cloves with the back of a spoon until you have a paste.
• In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat, add bread crumbs and herbes de Provence and toss until the bread crumbs start to brown.
• Add the toasted bread crumbs to the mixing bowl with the garlic.
• Add in the horseradish and mix well.
• Wipe out the skillet and add another tablespoon of olive oil. Liberally salt and pepper the beef filet and sear on all sides over high heat, about 90 seconds per side. Remove the filet to rest.
• Using slightly moistened hands, press the bread crumb mixture on all sides of the filet and place on an oiled sheet pan. Bake for about 7 minutes, or until a meat thermometer reads 130 degrees (for medium rare).
• Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 minutes before slicing.

Local brew gets national nod

Monday, October 31st, 2011

103111_suds-cityRaise your pints of artisanal autumn ale and toast to local brewers! Our booming craft beer industry continues to garner national attention, most recently this past weekend via The New York Times. Of the area’s nearly 20 microbreweries, the article cited some of the newest microbreweries to open their doors, including The Civil Life Brewing Co., Perennial Artisan Ales (which opened just last weekend), and soon-to-open 4 Hands Brewing Co. The Times also zoned in on the bustling Midtown area and three of its beer-brewing tenants: Buffalo Brewing Co., Six Row Brewing Co., and Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. For more on our ever-expanding craft beer scene, take a tour of the local taps in Suds City.

The Scoop: Numerous area restaurants adding new locations

Monday, October 31st, 2011

103111_itapAfter a month of restaurant closure announcements (Adobe Reds, Seasons American Cuisine and Crostini), a handful of area eateries are preparing to add new locations around town.

Tomorrow, November 1, Joanie’s Pizzeria in Soulard will open a second location in South County. The pizzeria will sit at 5441 Telegraph Road, between Yaegar and Baumgartner Roads, offering carryout and delivery service only.

Rotten Apple, a pub located in Grafton, Ill., will have a sister spot in Soulard. According to the Rotten Apple website, location No. 2 is coming to 1730 South Eight St.

Another pub, International Tap House, may soon boast a trio of drinking holes in the area. “We are actively looking for a third location,” confirmed iTAP spokesperson, Robb Yagmin. Currently, iTAP’s two addresses are in Chesterfield and Soulard.

And finally, casual-dining chain Max & Erma’s continues to grow with its fourth area restaurant opening on Monday, November 7. The newest franchise unit will be in West County Center in Des Peres, in the space formerly occupied by J Buck’s. A Max & Erma’s opened in late August in Fairview Heights, Ill., joining locations in Lake St. Louis and Mid-Rivers Mall in St. Peters.

The Scoop: Talayna’s founder dies, Frontenac Grill goes on

Monday, October 31st, 2011

103111_talaynasArea restaurateur Mike “Talayna” Faille has died. Faille was founder of the Talayna’s chain of Italian restaurants and owner of Talayna’s at the Park, Mike Talayna’s Juke Box Restaurant and, most recently, Frontenac Grill. He passed away last Thursday from complications resulting from a heart attack, as reported by St. Louis Magazine’s George Mahe. Frontenac Grill (originally to be named Ol’ Blue Eyes as a salute to Frank Sinatra), opened this weekend as planned at at 731 S. Lindbergh Road in Frontenac with Andrew Ladlie, a former sous chef at Annie Gunn’s, helming the kitchen.

Drink This Weekend Edition: Sanctuaria taps into kegged cocktails

Friday, October 28th, 2011

102711_drinkthisTap handles aren’t just for beer anymore. Earlier this month, we reported that keg wine is headed to St. Louis and will make its first appearance at Sasha’s on Shaw, followed by Green Bean in the Central West End. Now, it’s cocktails’ turn to get drafted.

Last week, a new drink menu rolled out at cocktail haven Sanctuaria, including two cocktails on tap. Bartender Joel Clark explained that bringing ‘tails to the tap handle involved batching up enough cocktails to fit inside a 4.5 gallon stainless steel soda keg. The cocktails were then put on ice, just as they would have been if shaken or strained when served individually. Clark tested the mixed drinks as the ice diluted and removed the ice once the cocktails had reached a balanced flavor. Both kegs, which are kept under refrigeration at 38 degrees, were then connected to the taps. Each keg has two hook-up lines, one that brings carbon dioxide to the keg; the other connects to the tap handle. So, has that bit of carbonation changed the character of the cocktail? Not according to Clark. “I have been testing it every day for the last week. It is consistent to me.”

Among the two cocktails, I enjoyed the Uncommon Ground (pictured) for its fall flavors. The drink, which is served up, combines Scotch, cognac, cinnamon syrup, Malbec, passion fruit juice and baked apple bitters. Apple and cinnamon tickle the tongue, and overall, Uncommon Ground tastes of an earthy punch or sangria with a splash of port, which feels quite right on a chilly autumn night.

Four Ways from Sunday is a mixture of Purus vodka, cinnamon syrup, lemon juice and Orchard Pear liqueur. Served tall with crushed ice and topped with club soda and a lemon wedge, this long drink may be familiar to regulars at Sanctuaria since Four Ways from Sunday is really just a tweak to Blonde Ambition – No. 93 on the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club menu, that combines vodka, cinnamon syrup, lemon juice and club soda. The mild-mannered cocktail is a nice seasonal transition sipper that vodka drinkers will especially enjoy.

Extra Sauce: Short List Runner-Up

Friday, October 28th, 2011

102811_tiramisu_extrasauceIn this month’s Short List, we kissed plenty of Italian-speaking frogs to find our tiramisu prince. You can find our favorite Italian royalty here. And as for which tiramisu fell just shy of taking home a medal, click over to our Extra Sauce section to find out.

— Photo by Jonathan Gayman

Tweet Beat: The week’s best tweets from STL foodies

Friday, October 28th, 2011

080610_twittericonAre you following us on Twitter? Come on, get Saucy @saucemagazine

mcharcuterie
Billy Goat chips dipped in creamy peanut butter. Lunch of champions.

chadmgeorge
@sippinstl call me a snob, but the idea of flavored, alcohol infused whipped cream can not be executed properly, except by firing squad.

billstreeter
Tried Range today, food great but I think their service is suffering opening day jitters, lots of glitches

MilagroModMex
Just heard the announcers on ESPN say “there’s no doubt about it, if I weren’t at the game tonight I would watch it at Milagro”

stlouisbeer
At work early so I can stop by @PerennialBeer on my way home. Thursday beer release…

maddie_em
Crumbled #bacon in the chili. How can I not win?

HarshaWines
Burned dinner at home = delicious time supporting local economy at Iron Barley.

Think you should be on this list? Follow us and let us know @saucemagazine

Cheap Date: Playing Hooky



Thursday, October 27th, 2011

CheapDate_logoWelcome to Cheap Date, a new online column that takes the stress out of planning your next date. Every other Thursday, Nightlife reviewer Matt Berkley will reveal how you can enjoy the best our city has to offer for under (or around) $30.

With the fall season in the deep throes of a last gasp, now is the time to get outside and enjoy the last of sunny days and crisp, falling leaves. This is prime outdoors romantic couples time, people. There’s just one issue: You’re stuck inside slowly going blind at work. It’s time to make a break for it and take a mental health day. For better results, grab your significant other and coordinate a day off. That way, you’ll both have something nice to remember when the first ice storm rolls in.

102611_CD_Tandem

Get Outside

Everybody ditches on a Friday. Be crafty and opt for Wednesday instead – less questions that way. Plus, everything is less crowded. It’s a nice preview of what retirement is going to be like. With the leaves turning, head downtown for a mid-morning bike ride through the heart of Forest Park and across Lindell Boulevard to ogle some real estate you’ll never be able to afford. Better yet, take advantage of our top-ranked and totally free Zoo. Yes it’s corny, but it’s also been too long since you’ve last been.


102611_cheapdateBLT

The Meal

For lunch or dinner, head up north to Crown Candy Kitchen, one of the best and cheapest food destinations in St. Louis. It’s also one of the most frequented. Weekends are slammed. That being the case, late afternoon or early evening on a weekday is the best time to avoid the crowds, which have a tendency to line up out the door. This place is a culinary institution for good reason: original turn-of-the-century décor, an out-of-the-way location (Warning: You’ll want to avoid riding your bike there.), and the best Rueben sandwich and biggest “heart-stopping” BLT you’ll ever have – at a price of only $8 a pop. Throw in two enormous hand-dipped malts (Yes, the malts are obligatory, people.), and your tab will be around $25. You’ll have just enough left over to grab a little something for later (read: milk chocolate-molasses puffs, almond toffee, milk chocolate Crown Candy hash).

— BLT photo by Carmen Troesser

Bacon wins at St. Louis Bread Co.’s Sandwich Showdown

Wednesday, October 26th, 2011

102611_paniniBack in August, we told you about a new promotion St. Louis Bread Co., was holding that prompted sandwich-loving St. Louisans to design a new sandwich to appear on the menu at all area St. Louis Bread locations. Portions of the proceeds from the sandwich’s sales would go to St. Louis Children’s Hospital, and the creator of the winning ‘wich would take home a $2,500 prize.

Today, The Great Sandwich Showdown concluded with four judges (including Sauce publisher Allyson Mace) tasting their way through the top five sandwiches chosen from more than 800 entries. So, which ‘wich won the prize? Well, no surprise here, bacon won the race. The BLTT touts Gouda cheese, chipotle mayonnaise, apple wood-smoked bacon, baby spinach and vine-ripened tomatoes all on two slices of tomato-basil bread. The creator of the BLTT, Lauren Day, took home a hefty check –and bragging rights every time she walks into a Bread Co., of course.

Just more proof that bacon makes everything better.

The Scoop: Season comes to an end for Seasons American Cuisine

Wednesday, October 26th, 2011

102611_seasons2Seasons American Cuisine is closing, as reported earlier today by St. Louis Magazine’s George Mahe. Chef-owner Kevin Smith opened the restaurant, located at 79 Forum Center near Olive Boulevard and Woods Mill Road in Chesterfield, less than a year ago.

Smith correlates the demise of his restaurant with the success of a particular professional baseball team. “The Cardinals in the playoffs were our final undoing,” said Smith. “Fridays and Saturdays we went from [customers] being on a wait list down to 28 people.” Smith noted that other establishments are also suffering, per recent conversations he has had with other restaurateurs and even winery owners. “If you are in the suburbs, you are dying right now with the Cardinals in the playoffs — unless you are a sports bar or a pizza place.”

This Saturday, October 29, will be the last day of service at Seasons. Smith plans to return to the private sector; he has accepted an executive chef position at an area retirement community.

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