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Apr 24, 2017
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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Archive for August, 2013

Month In Review: August 2013

Saturday, August 31st, 2013

As we get ready to reveal our latest issue, we take a look back at some of our favorite stories, recipes, dishes and drinks from August.

 

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Tacos broke out of their shells and took over STL; Sauce Facebook fans went nuts for this cassata cake; we learned three ways to take eggplant beyond eggplant Parm; we pulled up a seat at Alpha Brewing Company’s bar; vegan brownies made us feel good about our sweet tooth; an Asian-inspired summer slaw lightened up our picnics; potato chips snuck into oatmeal cookies; we turned tuna noodle casserole on its head with Richard Blais; YellowTree’s Justin Leszcz shared the weirdest thing he’s ever grown; Baked was inspired after judging a pie contest; young farmers showed off their hard work at the Missouri State Fair; hot dog and burger joint The Dam opened its doors; you learned what a CVap was – and why local chefs go crazy for it; four new restaurants you should try opened up; we were popping bottles to bring you 10 sodas to try; local bartenders dominate at PopFest 2013; we noshed on everything from pizza to octopus at Central Table.

 

 

 

 

Drink This Weekend Edition: The Sophia Loren of Riojas

Friday, August 30th, 2013

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Way back when Dan knew nothing of wine, his boss asked him to decant a bottle of R. López de Heredia Bosconia 1947 (López de Heredia is the producer; Bosconia is the vineyard.). After three hours (and after consuming several glasses of lesser wine), he asked, “Isn’t three hours a little long for a ’47?” “You know nothing of these wines,” he said curtly. “Get a fresh glass.”

Mind blown. Copious, explosive tertiary qualities. Dried plum, cherry, rose hip, autumn leaves, something from grandma’s armoire, and an iron spear through the nose. In my mouth, vibrant acidity, silkiness, cocoa powder and more. “If you think any wines age better than Rioja, particularly López, you are dead wrong,” he said.

During the next few years, we tasted dozens of old López from ’64 to ’05. There is something odd about Tempranillo (occasionally blended with Garnacha, graciano and Mazuelo varieties), and how it melds with American oak, growing softer and more expressive. We came to be believers. This wine ages better than anything we’ve experienced, and López de Heredia is some of the best aging of them all.

But why is Rioja (particularly López, arguably the soul of the region) so special? Rioja (red and white) is a truly dynamic beverage. Recently we decided to push the envelope and picked up a bottle of López Tondonia’01 and López Gravonia ’03 (a white) to drink with—get this—soba noodles topped with sardines, anchovies and kimchee. Tremendous. We had never experienced kimchee accentuating the fruit of a red, and the white paired seamlessly. We were told about these pairings, but we had never taken them so far before.

The wines of López de Heredia not only age like Sophia Loren, they have the flexibility of a Bikram yogi. Here, two of our picks:

R. López de Heredia Viña Gravonia 2003 Viura
On the nose, toasted marshmallow and creamy lemon curd. The palate is silky and rich, displaying even-handed acid throughout and umami qualities. This may be a gateway wine for California chardonnay drinkers who crave more complexity.

R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia 2001 Tempranillo blend
This wine does best in a decanter. The nose and first taste held very distinct notes of Baker’s chocolate and iron, but the wine was otherwise incredibly subdued. Three hours later, the wine is showing overripe plum, brisk black cherry notes with touches of herbes de Provence. This wine is rogue, precise and an absolute overachiever when one considers price point.

For those looking to cellar, both of these wines have at least 20 years in front of them, and the Tondonia may have many more than that. Both wines available at The Wine & Cheese Place.

Daniels Blake-Parseliti is wine director at Little Country Gentleman, and Lauren Blake-Parseliti is Five Bistro‘s beverage program coordinator.

 

 

The Scoop: Fozzie’s opens locale No. 2 in Des Peres

Friday, August 30th, 2013

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Fozzie’s Sandwich Emporium is now open for business in Des Peres. The new shop, located at 11656 Manchester Road in the space that most recently housed Dottie’s Ice Cream Parlor, marks the second location for the popular stop for gourmet sandwiches.

Owner Mark Lucas opened the original location on Big Bend Boulevard in Richmond Heights in June 2010. He explained he chose to add a location in West County because “we’re a good fit for this area.” At 1,400 square feet and with 40 seats, Fozzie’s No. 2 is a jump in size compared to its 10-seat (not counting the patio with its colorful backyard chairs) sister restaurant in Richmond Heights.

The menus are identical at both Fozzie’s locations. Besides specialty sandwiches, customers can order seasonal salads (We’ve given the panzanella salad a thumbs up as a Meatless Monday meal.), house-made spreads with pita and desserts, including cookies and brownies made in-house by Laura Hiedotten, manager at the Richmond Heights store. Both Fozzie’s locations are open daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and offer delivery anywhere within 5 miles of the shop.

 

 

Tweet Beat: The week’s best tweets from #STL foodies

Friday, August 30th, 2013

Are you following us on Twitter? Come on, get Saucy @saucemag

aubrey_Joe
I would bathe in ‪@4HandsBrewery Resurrection.

JJonesing
Cheetos are not a good pre-run snack. ‪#ProTip

shooter_mcgavic
“Give me a scotch. I’m starving!” – Tony Stark ‪#WordsToLiveBy

swmrnbk
Almost to ‪@iTAPbeer ‪@iTAPCfield. Watch out Outlet shoppers, I need a beer!

michaeltomko
I very much want what is known as “Pizza Fries”.

LisaFernandezCr
Regular mushrooms to a four year old: gross. Beef fat roasted mushrooms to a four year old: amazing. ‪#killme

ScientistMcGee
You know you’re living well when your autocorrect changes “butters” to “bitters” for you. Cheers!

AimeeKnebel
Just spilled hot coffee all over my lap while booking a week of vacation in September. In this case, the positives outweigh the negatives.

CometCoffeeStl
Also, ‪@sumpcoffee dry processed Kenya now dialed-in–it’s like having a sharknado in your mouth.

misenplace13
I have to be up wicked early to go to a farm and eat cheese and drink beer.  ‪#imokwiththat

Think you should be on this list? Follow us and let us know @saucemag

 

 

Clayton student launches company to sell DIY lemonade stands

Friday, August 30th, 2013

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Every year, young entrepreneurs across the country learn the value of a hard day’s work and earn their own money selling lemonade, a quintessential summer beverage. That idea, along with a desire for a cold glass of lemonade, inspired Clayton High School student Joel Zeid to come up with a new, do-it-yourself product, Lemonade Stand in a Box.

Made of recyclable paper, the stand was developed with the help of engineers at St. Louis’ Loy-Lange Box Co.  The lemonade stand weighs in at less than 11 ½ pounds and is assembled with waterproof adhesive, so it can handle most abuse a young lemonade stand operator could put it through. Its white linerboard serves as a blank canvas, letting children create their own designs to market their lemonade.

In the spirit of entrepreneurship, Zeid launched a company to sell his product, Do It Yourself Toys. Lemonade Stand In a Box is currently available at Happy Up Toys in St. Louis and Edwardsville, Ill., and Imagination Toys in St. Louis.

 

 

 

 

This week, Catherine Klene is obsessed with…

Thursday, August 29th, 2013

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Miss Jubilee and the Humdingers had the crowd in a dancing frenzy at Food Truck Friday in August. Part swing, part jazz, part blues and all attitude, this band’s energy is infectious. Catch one of their lives shows soon and just try to sit still. You’ll be on the dance floor after just one song.

 

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Well, summer finally caught up with us. To beat the 104-degree heat index this holiday weekend, I plan to sip a boozy lemonade from Baileys’ Range. The Bourbon Maple Sour combines lemonade, Maker’s Mark, local maple syrup and orange bitters for a refreshing, not-too-sweet summer cocktail that makes this melting heat just a little more bearable.

 

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I have never been a great baker – too much precision for someone so haphazard with her measurements. But when a craving for old-fashioned buttermilk biscuits hit one Sunday, I took a stab at Kevin Gillespie’s recipe from his new book, Fire in My Belly. I don’t know if it is was his odd method of adding butter (shred a frozen stick with a box grater) or the overly exact instructions (stir the dough no more than 25 times), but for the first time, I produced a light, flaky biscuit worthy of Sunday brunch. The following week, I managed to repeat the results. In my book, that’s buttermilk biscuits conquered.

 

 

 

In This Issue: Taco Takeover

Thursday, August 29th, 2013

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Formerly a take-it-or-leave-it option for platos especiales and pick-three platters, nowadays, tacos are not just experiencing a boom, but a renaissance. By elevating the plebian staple, returning it to its street-vendor roots and reimaging it with exciting new twists, chefs across the country have re-energized the Mexican food scene with their singular focus on tacos.

Their tacos bear little resemblance to the hamburger-filled, deep-fried tortilla shells that were a fixture at every Chi-Chi’s and Casa Gallardo during the heyday of Americanized, fast-casual Mexican-food chains. It’s safe to say that Chevys will never feature grasshopper tacos, a staple on the menu at Gringo in the Central West End. The taquería, which opened this spring, imports grasshoppers by the kilo from Mexico, where they are munched like beer nuts in cantinas. “I’ve probably sold tens of thousands of these bugs,” said Steven Caravelli, corporate chef of Gringo and Pi Pizzeria. “It’s a strange business I’m in right now.”

On an average day, Gringo’s kitchen goes through roughly 900 to 1,000 freshly made tortillas. Some fillings are familiar – chicken, shredded pork, even ground beef – and some – octopus, red snapper and, of course, grasshopper – are less so.

Click here to read more about how tacos both traditional and off-the-wall have taken over St. Louis.

- Photo by Carmen Troesser

 

The Scoop: SLU School of Law restaurant The Docket opens downtown

Wednesday, August 28th, 2013

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Saint Louis University School of Law’s new restaurant The Docket is now open for service. The restaurant is located on the ground floor of the law school’s new downtown location at 100 N. Tucker Blvd. Open to the public, The Docket features a grab-and-go counter for breakfast and lunch, a buffet and an a la carte menu for lunch, and regular dinner service.

Chef Treff Baker is helming the kitchen, and as with other Bon Appétit-managed venues (Washington University’s dining services and Saint Louis Art Museum’s restaurant Panorama), he and his team are using locally sourced, seasonal ingredients and scratch-made sauces, dressings and dough. On the beverage side, the bar features wine, craft beer, handcrafted cocktails and house-made sodas.

 

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General manager Jorge Rama described The Docket’s concept as one focused on family-style plates and foods that promote conversation, such as the pizzas served with scissors (pictured). True to its name, in just its first week open, Rama said The Docket has seen judges, lawyers, jurors and law students all frequenting the new space.

 

 

Baked: Jazzed-Up Oatmeal Cookies

Wednesday, August 28th, 2013

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Growing up, I loathed oatmeal cookies. I avoided them because of the dreaded raisins. I stuck firmly to chocolate chip cookies and Oreos my entire life until I learned to bake. Then I realized I didn’t need to put raisins in oatmeal cookies, and then they were actually rather tasty. Of course, I added white chocolate chips instead and eventually dried cranberries. I’m sure some of you may be thinking dried cranberries are a just hop, skip and jump away from raisins, but I beg to differ. I’m stubborn that way.

These cookies are so easy to put together. When I found out my new neighbors were moving in, I slapped a batch together and brought them over just as the last box crossed the threshold. They’re light, crispy around the edges and chewy in the middle. The combination of white chocolate chips and cranberries is pleasant on your taste buds, and the potato chips add just the right amount of salt.

It’s certainly a departure from the classic cookies you’ve grown up with, but I have a feeling you’ll enjoy them nonetheless. Happy baking!

Jazzed-Up Oatmeal Cookies
Adapted from Smitten Kitchen
Makes 18 to 20 cookies

1 cup all-purpose flour
¾ tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. baking soda
¼ tsp. table salt
13 Tbsp. unsalted butter, slightly softened
¾ cup sugar
¼ cup packed light brown sugar
1 large egg
1 tsp. vanilla extract
2 cups old-fashioned rolled oats
1 cup (6 oz.) white chocolate chips
1 cup dried cranberries
1 cup crushed potato chips, divided

• Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a Silpat mat.
• Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and table salt in a medium bowl.
• In a large bowl, beat the butter, sugar and brown sugar together until light and fluffy. Scrape down the bowl with a rubber spatula, then add the egg and vanilla extract and beat until incorporated.
• Gradually add the dry ingredients and mix until just incorporated and smooth.
• Stir in the oats, white chocolate chips, cranberries and half of the potato chips.
• Divide the dough into equal portions of your preferred size cookie. Roll the dough between your palms into balls, then place them on about 2½ inches apart on the lined baking sheets. Using your fingertips, gently press down each ball to a ¾-inch thickness.
• Evenly divide the remaining crushed potato chips over the top of the cookies and press them in gently.
• Bake until the cookies are deep golden brown, 13 to 16 minutes, rotating the baking sheet halfway through.
• Cool completely before noshing.

 

 

The Scoop: Nadoz Bakery Café to add location in Chesterfield

Wednesday, August 28th, 2013

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Steven and Kathy Becker, husband and wife owners of catering company Steven Becker Fine Dining, as well as owners-operators of wine bar Vino Nadoz and two Nadoz Bakery Café locations, are opening a third cafe. The newest Nadoz will be located at Taubman Prestige Outlets, a new outlet mall at 17017 N. Outer Forty Road in Chesterfield Valley.

Steven Becker noted they were looking for a location in West County “for months and months.” The Beckers settled on this Chesterfield Valley location because they are optimistic that the high foot traffic at the shopping mall and the proximity of their 2,800-square-foot cafe to highly travelled Monarch Chesterfield Levee Trail will attract shoppers and exercisers alike. The newest Nadoz Bakery Café will sit across from the Ralph Lauren Polo shop, an anchor tenant for the outlet mall. The cafe will be the largest of the three Nadoz cafes with seating for approximately 70 customers, who can also grab one of 200 seats in the outdoor food court.

Nadoz No. 3 will cater to the sentiments of shoppers and trail users alike. Time-pressed customers who just need a beverage can order from the espresso/juice/smoothie bar, while those seeking food can place their order at a separate register. Becker explained the squeeze juice bar will be a major emphasis at the new location, which is currently under construction. “We’re designing it with the juice bar in mind,” he said. Nadoz introduced its juice bar program at The Boulevard in Richmond Heights last year and expanded it to The Coronado on Lindell Boulevard in early 2013. Besides raw juice made to order from fresh fruit and veggies, Nadoz will offer dairy or nondairy-based smoothies with fruit or vegetables options.

The food menu will not have items distinct from other Nadoz Café spots; rather, it will offer what Becker called “the best of everything” from the other two locations. This includes hot items like crepes (currently only available at The Boulevard location) and a burger bar (currently only offered at The Coronado). Compared to typical food court eats, Nadoz also looks to offer fresh, healthy fare such as egg-white muffin sandwiches, homemade soups and thoughtful salads. But those looking for more indulgent options like waffles and house-baked breakfast pastries like Nadoz’s Doughssants don’t need to worry. “We’ll do the ‘bad’ stuff, too,” Becker said.

Overseeing the kitchen will be Jason Hector, executive corporate chef for Steven Becker Fine Dining. Prior to joining the company in May, Hector was the executive sous chef at Herbie’s, where he worked for the past six years, according to Becker. Hector most recently revamped the Vino Nadoz menu, adding more affordable small plates that Becker called “whimsical,” citing the pork belly corn dogs.

The Beckers are trying to get doors unlocked in late November – ideally by Black Friday. When they do, it will be open daily from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

 

 

 

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