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Feb 23, 2018
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Archive for October, 2013

The Month in Review: October 2013

Thursday, October 31st, 2013

As we get ready to reveal our latest issue, we take a look back at some of our favorite stories, recipes, dishes and drinks from October.




We made the ultimate french fries; we had a chat with royalty; we said goodbye to a place (and a sandwich) we’ll miss; we drank up at Hiro Asian Kitchen; a granola bar recipe stole your hearts; we made dinner in a snap; eggs have never been better; our top three jelly doughnuts in town; we did some digging on a new vegetarian spot; Ben Poremba revealed his fried chicken dream; green dining hit St. Charles; we professed our love for J.E.M. cookies; Companion hit a milestone; Ottolenghi became our favorite cookbook of the moment; fly-fishing called, and we answered.



This week, Ligaya Figueras is obsessed with…

Thursday, October 31st, 2013



{The pasta du jour at Demun Oyster Bar is bistro comfort in a bowl. The last time I ordered it, hot pasta noodles and fresh vegetables shared space with hunks of meaty, fresh-off-the-boat seafood. And when nothing remained but an aromatic, fishy broth, hunks of crusty bread made quick work of things.}




{Yes, dry-roasted black edamame looks weird, but when coated with just the right amount of sea salt, you lose all restraint. Your hand returns to the bag every few minutes only to find there’s nothing left to lick but your salty fingers. Jump onto the permissible indulgence bandwagon and get this new protein-packed wonder snack at Whole Foods.}




{Bubbles. Vintage cocktails. Deer antlers on the wall. There are tres belle reasons I return to Bar Les Freres. Most recently, it’s because the mushroom and leek tart is back on the menu. Oh là là, that flaky pastry! Oh là là, that generous ladle of earthy sauce aux champignons! They now take reservations at this French-y Clayton nightspot; it’s time to make yours.}

Just Five: Honey Sriracha Wings

Thursday, October 31st, 2013




I’m not a big tailgater. I don’t care about football, and since I have two daughters, my favorite team will continue to play on Friday Night Lights reruns. However, I am a fan of tailgate food. Sausages with onions and peppers, charred burgers, hot cheese dips, nachos and wings … oh, wings. I love them sweet or spicy, fried or baked. I love the absolute Neanderthal feeling as I fight the bits of flesh from the bone. There’s always just a little shame after one decimates a plate of wings. It’s a good shame.

These wings sprung from an innocent Facebook post from my friend Elli: “Sriracha honey wings!” That’s all. Three simple words. In her version, it’s just those three ingredients; I love when I get to play with two extra ingredients!

I mixed Sriracha and honey and decided the lime would add a little needed acid. The fish sauce is the umami I felt it was lacking. I tried it with both fish sauce and tamari and both work wonderfully. (BTW, Fish sauce is a great ingredient to add a little oomph to lots of dishes.)

These are spicy; your lips will sing for the first quarter of the game. But chase that heat with a cold brew and get in there to cheer on your team. Ready – break!

Honey Sriracha Wings
Inspired by a recipe from Elli Snyder
2 to 4 Servings

8 chicken wings
8 Tbsp. (1 stick) butter, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
¼ cup Sriracha hot sauce
1/3 cup honey
1 Tbsp. fish sauce or tamari
Juice of ½ lime
½ lime, cut into wedges, for garnish

• Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Pat chicken wings dry with paper towels.
• In a large microwave-safe bowl, melt 4 tablespoons butter in the microwave. Toss the wings in the butter to coat, then place on a foil-lined baking sheet and season with salt and pepper.
• Bake for 45 minutes and remove from oven to rest.
• Place the remaining butter, Sriracha, honey, fish sauce and the lime juice in a large microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on high 45 seconds, until the butter is mostly melted and whisk to combine.
• Toss the cooked wings in the sauce until thoroughly coated. Serve with lime wedges.



The Scoop: Global Foods Market in The Loop to be more than a grocery store

Wednesday, October 30th, 2013

103013_globalfoods{Shayn Prapaisilp}


News came this summer that The Loop was going to get a full-service grocery store and a 24-hour diner. As development continues at the corner of Eastgate Avenue and Delmar Boulevard, the future home to both Peacock Loop Diner and Global Foods Market, The Scoop has a cart full of information about what’s in store at the grocery store.

Like its sister store in Kirkwood, Global Foods Market will offer a wide variety of international and specialty grocery items daily. Because its footprint of 15,000 square feet will be smaller than the original store, this one will “have a little more specific merchandizing,” said Shayn Prapaisilp, vice president of Global Foods Market. But the international flair will extend beyond the shelves, specifically to prepared foods. Leading this side of the operation will be Ben Poremba, chef-owner of Elaia and Olio (and a chicken shack coming this spring), as well as the co-owner of Salume Beddu and La Patisserie Chouquette.

 The prepared foods section – unofficially named The Market on Delmar by Global Foods – will include numerous food stations, including a deli counter, a sushi and ceviche bar, a grill area and a coffee bar, according to Poremba, who said the concept was inspired by urban food spots like Dean & DeLuca and Eataly in New York City. Daily breakfast, lunch and dinner offerings will include both grab-and-go, as well as made-to-order items that hail from cuisines from around the world. Poremba emphasized that while the food would be “unique, interesting and international,” it would also be affordably priced.

Seating will be available in an open dining area, a more private dining spot, and near the coffee bar. “There will be a good variety of seating options, depending on if you’re there one hour or 15 minutes,” said Prapaisilp. He hopes to open doors in late July or early August, in time for the start of the Washington University fall semester.

-photo courtesy of James Byard/WUSTL Newsroom

The Scoop: Dave Bailey shares a big batch of what’s in store at Small Batch

Wednesday, October 30th, 2013



Last week, restaurateur Dave Bailey made waves when he announced the addition of a second Rooster location, bringing the breakfast and brunch concept to South Grand. That news comes just weeks before busy Bailey opens another restaurant, Small Batch, in Midtown Alley. Bailey revealed plans for Small Batch in May, and with the doors unlocking at 3001 Locust St., in mid-to-late November, The Scoop caught up with him to get a few details on the restaurant.

Small Batch’s menu, developed by Bailey in collaboration with executive chefs Peter Clark and Stephen Trouvere, is entirely vegetarian, while the beverage focus is whiskey. “A lot of people think of whiskey as going with very rich dishes, or meat, but it doesn’t have to be that way,” Bailey said. “There’s a lot of subtlety to many whiskeys, especially American whiskeys. The craftsmanship that people have with it – they express so many different flavors with a relatively small amount of ingredients. You can pair it with every cuisine you want as long as you’re thoughtful about it.”

Small Batch will offer lunch, brunch, dinner and late night menus, with some overlap among the approximately 20 items on each. Don’t expect Small Batch to pigeonhole itself into one genre of cookery or one ethnic cuisine. Rather, the food will “cross borders,” while also frequently adjusting for seasonality.

While Small Batch will offer several dozen whiskeys, the selection (curated by Justin Austermann, bar manager at sister restaurant Bridge) will “gradually develop and change over time,” Bailey explained. “A lot of what we are going for isn’t necessarily available all the time.”

The space is a mere 1,500 square feet, but a 400-square-foot, L-shaped mezzanine will increase seating capacity to 90. A double-wide sidewalk will add some 80 dining spots outdoors. Bailey has set out to accentuate the “regal presence” of a space that was once a Ford Model-T showroom. Look for a hexagonal-tiled floor that’s “polished, clean and shiny,” complemented by focal points like a tall bar back, enormous mirror and a huge light fixture. “We wanted to take a small space and make it grand,” said Bailey.



Wheatless Wednesdays: Simple, Versatile Flatbreads

Wednesday, October 30th, 2013



Today, 17 years after I was diagnosed with celiac disease, I now feel privileged to follow this dietary lifestyle. The days of feeling deprived or that I’m missing out are long gone.  I have tapped into a whole new world of food I did not know existed prior to being diagnosed with this autoimmune disorder. If I did know the foods were out there, they weren’t in my daily repertoire.

Long gone are the days of boring boxed pasta and jarred red sauce or tasteless cheese pizza. Now I dream of teff, buckwheat and sorghum; sweet potatoes, golden beets and broccoli rabe; sheep feta, poached eggs and lamb tenderloin. I love pasta and pizza – as long as they are gluten-free and tasty – but they are no longer my standbys.

These crepes were a staple for me in my early celiac days. I love their versatility. Any gluten-free flour (or regular flour, for those who do eat gluten) can be substituted. You will need to play with the recipe as you change the type of flour you use. More water? More oil? More cooking time? They come together in a pinch once you get the hang of creating the right consistency, like a thin pancake batter. I suggest making a double or triple batch and freezing leftovers for a quick breakfast, snack or lunch on the go. Enjoy with sauteed fruit or nut butter.

Wheatless Flatbreads
Makes 8 small flatbreads

¾ cup gluten-free flour (teff, amaranth, sorghum, quinoa, brown rice, buckwheat, etc.)
½ Tbsp. olive oil
Pinch of salt

• Heat a nonstick skillet or griddle over medium-high heat, approximately 375 degrees. Coat the cooking surface with cooking spray or oil.
• In a small bowl, mix the flour, olive oil, salt and 1 cup filtered water and let sit a few minutes.
• Pour 1/3 cup batter onto the skillet. Cook until edges begin to brown and bubbles form in the middle of the flatbread.
• Flip and cook another 3 minutes. Remember: Each type of flour has a different cooking time. The first couple flatbreads likely will be an experiment!

Jill Duncan is the owner of Wellness by Jill and follows a gluten-free diet.



Budget Crunch: Delicious dishes and sweet deals right now

Tuesday, October 29th, 2013


{The Wow Board at Annie Gunn’s}


Welcome to Budget Crunch, wherein intrepid reporter Byron Kerman offers 10 tips on delicious menu items and sweet deals happening now. Got $10? Grab a friend and sample, split and stuff yourselves with these steals.

1. Fozzie’s Sandwich Emporium has World Series fever. The restaurant with the same name as the Muppet who crows “Wocka Wocka Wocka!” is honoring Cards pitching phenom Michael Wacha with the Wacha Wacha milkshake ($3 for a regular, $6 for a large), which has Cracker Jacks, caramel and white chocolate.

2. Open just a few weeks now, Strange Donuts offers a festive vibe during the late-night hours, from 9 p.m. until midnight Thursday through Friday. Donuts from $1 to $5 in flavors – and with fun names – like Bart’s Revenge (Butterfinger), PBJ, Young Grasshopper (chocolate mint), Peanut Butter Fat Baby and Briscuits & Gravy have kept a line of customers literally out the door.

3. The new $5 Rush Hour at Big Sky Cafe means $5 wines, cocktails and snacks from 4:30 to 6 p.m., Tuesday through Friday. Cocktails include a Strawberry Screwdriver; snacks include a Geisert Farms all-pork “Hog Dog” with spicy green peppercorn mustard and sour cabbage.

4. Vito’s in the Valley has a new Harvest Pizza that turns seasonal ingredients into a formidable pie for $12. Sage pesto, yellow squash, caramelized red onions, prosciutto, goat cheese and Parmesan work together on this one.

5. Bob’s Butcher Block is a weekly Wednesday-night appetizer special at Eleven Eleven Mississippi that showcases unusual cuts of meat, aka offal, for $8 to $10. Recent delicacies have included duck liver pate on crostini with crisp-fried sage, braised oxtail ravioli in oxtail consomme, and deconstructed steak and kidney pie. Walk on the wild side?

6. You have to love the name of the new autumn Fall & Oates Bars at Foundation Grounds Coffeehouse & Café. They’re made with organic apples, oats and caramel sauce, and they might just give you a John Oates-style mustache made of sweet, sticky caramel. These $4 treats must be preordered to guarantee a bite, or take your chances and pop in to see if they are the day’s special.

7. Annie Gunn’s offers a Wow Board charcuterie board that changes every day based on the rest of the menu. You might find spicy hot-link sausage, lamb bacon, horseradish mustard, Irish soda bread, bone marrow with gooseberry chutney, golden raisin apricot chutney, eggplant jelly, Iberico ham, German speck cured pork, brie, house-pickled vegetables and a vegetable terrine; it was all featured on a recent pallet of pleasure. For $20, it can easily satisfiy two people.

8. The $5 lunch at Truffles might be a barbecue burger, chicken and white bean chili with crispy tortilla strips, a turkey sandwich and fries, chicken and shrimp gumbo, a wedge salad with bacon lardons and boiled egg, or some other deliciousness. With a pint of beer included, the price is a steal. (Available 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday to Friday.)

9. The Thursday special at The Fountain on Locust is a surprise hit – a $9 Moroccan pot pie made with chicken, carrots, onions, raisins, peanuts, tomatoes and olives, domed with flaky puffed pastry. It’s a great cold-weather-fighter, too.

10. Panorama, the signature restaurant at the Saint Louis Art Museum, doesn’t get to have all the glory. The smaller, more casual Café at the Saint Louis Art Museum, located on Level 1of the South Building, offers $8 sandwiches with amusing names like the Beckmann (honey ham, apple butter, horseradish mustard, greens and cheese on Parisian bread) and the Hart Benton (turkey bacon aioli, tomatoes, greens and cheddar on sourdough), and $7 salads called the Motherwell (faro, greens, pickled red onions, peppadews, Oaxaca cheese, honey and chipotle dressing) and the Donatello (romaine, herb croutons, Marcoot heritage cheese, grilled chicken or poached salmon, and anchovy dressing).

 -photo by Michelle Volansky


By the Book: Suzanne Husseini’s Herb- and Pistachio-Crusted Rack of Lamb and Arugula and Tomato Salad

Tuesday, October 29th, 2013



Suzanne Husseini’s cookbook Modern Flavors of Arabia: Recipes and Memories From My Middle Eastern Kitchen is so fun to page through. From the cover to the photos of the dishes to even the distinct plates and glassware, each page is exotic and beautiful. Unfortunately, the recipes I chose did not turn out so pretty.




I’m not an expert cook. I wouldn’t even go as far as to say advanced. Normally, if a dish doesn’t work, I, without question, blame myself for doing something stupid. But for this recipe, I painstakingly followed every step. No shortcuts. No substitutions. No inserting my own “creative flair.” The lamb was pricey, and the picture of the dish looked delicious. I didn’t want to risk messing it up.




I questioned the amount of butter the recipe called for. A whole stick for a crust applied to just two racks of lamb seemed like an awful lot. But after triple-checking that a ½ cup really did equal one stick, I went ahead.




I only applied half the herb and nut mixture on the lamb (freezing the rest), and it still came out soggy. So I kept the lamb in the oven a little longer, hoping it would firm up. But I didn’t want to overcook the meat and truly ruin the dish, so I ended up eating it with a goopy, not crusty crust. Although it tasted delicious (reminding me of an Arabian take on chimichurri), the dish looked fairly unappetizing, and the texture was way off.




As recommended by Husseini, I paired the lamb with a very simple arugula salad. I was certain nothing could go wrong.




But somehow the salad was bad, too! The culprit? Sumac. In the past, I made a tomato salad with sumac, and it was awesome. But that recipe, which served six, only called for two teaspoons of sumac. This recipe, which was supposed to serve four, called for two tablespoons. I knew this amount sounded suspect, so once again, I triple-checked the recipe, but I went ahead, trusting Husseini over my amateur self. The recipe also didn’t specify how much olive oil to use, which I assumed was just enough to pour over four servings of the salad. As I suspected, instead of adding a nice touch of tart, the sumac made the dressing sour, grainy, and well, gross.




Although both my recipes seemed pretty off as far as proportions, I’m not ready to throw this book out the window quite yet. It’s just too pretty. However, I guess the lesson learned here is even if you aren’t the best cook, sometimes your instincts really are best.


Herb- and Pistachio-Crusted Rack of Lamb
4 servings

2 racks of lamb (cleaned, French-trimmed and patted dry)
2 Tbsp. olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
½ cup (1 stick) butter, room temperature
1 cup fresh parsley
½ cup fresh cilantro
1 tsp. ground allspice
1 tsp. paprika
6 cloves garlic, mashed
Zest 1 lemon
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs (white bread, crusts removed)
1 cup pistachios, ground but not too fine

• Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
• Rub the lamb all over with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
• Put the racks on a baking pan with the meat side up and roast for 15 minutes.
• Remove to cool, but leave the oven on and lower the temperature to 350 degrees.
• In a food processor, place the butter, parsley, cilantro, allspice, paprika, garlic and lemon zest and pulse a couple of times. Then add the breadcrumbs and pistachios and continue to pulse to incorporate, ensuring that it remains coarse.
• Spoon the herb and nut mixture on top of the lamb, meat side up, and, using your hands, pat down to stick.
• Return the lamb racks to the oven and finish roasting for another 15 minutes. Remove and cover loosely with foil and leave to rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Arugula and Tomato Salad
4 servings

Juice 1 lemon
2 Tbsp. sumac
Extra-virgin olive oil
4 handfuls arugula leaves, washed and drained
20 cherry tomatoes, sliced in half
2 Lebanese or Japanese cucumbers, seeds removed, sliced
1 small red onion, sliced thinly
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Pomegranate molasses

• Make the dressing by combining the lemon juice, sumac and olive oil.
• Place the arugula leaves in a salad bowl, and add the tomatoes, cucumbers and onion.
• Pour on the dressing, season with salt and pepper and toss to combine. Lastly, drizzle on some pomegranate molasses. Serve immediately.

Reprinted with permission from Random House.

What’s the worst dish you’ve made from a recipe? Who was at fault: you or the recipe’s creator? Tell us about it in the comments section below for a chance to win a copy of Modern Flavors of Arabia by Suzanne Husseini. We’ll announce the winner in next week’s By the Book column.

And now, we’d like to congratulate Pari, whose comment on last week’s By the Book has won a copy of The Lebanese Kitchen by Salma Hage.  Pari, keep an eye out for an email from the Sauce crew.



The Art Institute of St. Louis to open Creative Eats, a student-run restaurant

Monday, October 28th, 2013


Students enrolled in The International Culinary School at The Art Institute of St. Louis will soon have the opportunity to operate their own restaurant. Creative Eats, located at 1520 S. Fifth St., in St. Charles, will serve up bistro-style meals with an international flair to the public beginning Oct. 31. The students will take active roles in every aspect of this hands-on project, from dealing with food purveyors and food preparation to hosting and serving, all under the instruction of chef Linda Marcinko.

The menu – and team behind it – will change each quarter as a new class of chefs get their chance to show creativity and ingenuity in the front and back of the house. When doors open, Creative Eats will serve lunch Thursdays and Fridays with seatings at noon and 1 p.m. The fall menu features seasonal dishes such as wild mushroom minestrone with marscapone dumplings, smoked duck breast with apricot cherry chutney, roasted vegetable ragout with polenta, squash caponata, and roasted pears with ginger ice-cream. Call 636.688.3010 for reservations.



Meatless Monday: Dressel’s Roasted Pumpkin Arancini

Monday, October 28th, 2013



Here’s a dish at Dressel’s guaranteed to make your meat-eating friends jealous. The vibrant risotto inside these three crisp arancini gets its orange hue from rich pumpkin instead of seasonal staple butternut squash. The result rings savory, not sweet, and cloying pumpkin pie is the furthest thing from your mind. The crispy balls arrive on a bed of creamy greens (more cream than greens) sprinkled with toasted pepitas and drizzled with sorghum brown butter. Let them eat steak – we’ll take another round of arancini, please.





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