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Archive for June, 2014

The Scoop: Four local coffee businesses buzzing with news

Monday, June 30th, 2014


{The new counter at Kaldi’s at Farrell, opening July 1 at Washington University’s School of Medicine}


It’s a good time to be a caffeine addict. Coffee’s third wave has increased options for the coffee-savvy. But the wave isn’t receding, as four local coffee businesses are keeping the scene buzzing.

Art House Coffees in Maplewood is filled to the brim with new developments. The micro-roaster, currently located at 3111 Sutton Ave., is moving down the street to a larger space at 2808 Sutton Ave. The relocation will allow it to add a cafe component. The 12-seat cafe, Living Room, will offer single-origin brews, as well as bottles and growlers of concentrated cold-press coffee. Food will feature breads, cookies, homemade crackers with dips, and other light noshes by baker Nate Larson, son of Art House Coffee owner Barry Larson. Nate Larson anticipates Living Room to open in late September or early October.

But Art House is on the go in more ways than one. The company will soon roll out a custom-designed coffee cart to bring to area farmers markets that will offer espresso coffee drinks and cold-press coffee. Look for Art House’s pushcart at the Schlafly, Clayton, Webster Groves and Wildwood Farmers Markets within the next two weeks.

Going mobile

If chefs can do pop-ups, so can baristas. That’s the mindset of Paul Nahrgang and Tim Drescher, who shared news with St. Louis Magazine last week that they are launching nomadic coffee company, Wayfarer Coffee Co.

Nahrgang left his barista post at VB Chocolate Bar to join forces with Drescher, owner of Kuva coffee. “We’ve been friends for a while,” Nahrgang said. “(Drescher) comes from the second-wave coffee era. I started in this whole third-wave movement. We started talking about opening a truck, a cart, a kiosk. How cool would it be to have a completely mobile coffee shop?”

As a roaster, Nahrgang said Wayfarer will focus on single-origin beans and light roasts. Brews will include iced coffee and experimental items depending on coffee and brewing methods. Wayfarer will remain separate from Drescher’s Kuva brand.

Where will Wayfarer wander? “We are open to just about anything,” Nahrgang said. “We’ve been in talks with Atomic Cowboy about a coffee cocktail hour. Lulu’s Local Eatery … Purple Martin – basically anybody willing to bring us in and try to do something different.”

Although Wayfarer has already made appearances at special events and at area farmers markets, Nahrgagn and Drescher are planning a two- to three-week grand opening tour in August.

Lucky No. 13

Can’t wait until August to get caffeinated? Kaldi’s Coffee recently announced on its blog that its newest location, Kaldi’s at Farrell, opens tomorrow, July 1, in the Farrell Learning and Teaching Center on Washington University’s School of Medicine campus. The coffee shop, located at 520 S. Euclid Ave., in the Central West End, is the sixth Kaldi’s in St. Louis and its 13th overall.

Kaldi’s at Farrell will be open Monday to Friday from 6:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. and is open to the public. Marketing director Chris Reimer said Kaldi’s couldn’t pass up a chance to takeover the spot after the previous cafe, which served Kaldi’s coffee, closed. “There are so many coffee drinkers in the area, and the foot traffic there is tremendous,” he said. “It was a great opportunity to be in a high density area.”

In additional to the full coffee menu and pastries baked on-site, Kaldi’s at Farrell will also serve an entirely vegetarian breakfast and lunch menu like its sister location on DeMun Avenue in Clayton. “Considering it’s our medical school campus … we wanted to offer a pretty healthy menu,” Reimer said.

Bridging the gap

Another local roaster will also see expansion soon; Chronicle Coffee is opening a second location at 501 N. Grand Blvd., in Grand Center, as reported by the St. Louis Business Journal. Owner Jason Wilson, who also owns Northwest Coffee, said he hopes the new location will both encourage more people to visit Grand Center and urge people to go north of Delmar Boulevard to check out Chronicle’s original location at 1235 Blumeyer St., just off Grand Boulevard.

“I want entice folks to go over to the old location,” Wilson said. “Chronicle will be the pillar between Olive and Grand and Page and Grand,” adding that he hoped the new location would encourage more business development north of Delmar Boulevard.

Wilson expects the Grand Center location to seat 55 to 60 and said it will have a more “communal, urban, city setting.” Customers will be able to order from the full Chronicle coffee menu, as well as partake in wine and an slightly expanded food menu. Wilson hopes to open doors at the new location by late August or mid-September.

Catherine Klene contributed to this report.



The Scoop: Gulf Shores restaurant to open location in Edwardsville

Monday, June 30th, 2014


{Gulf Shores owner Harry Parker}


Harry Parker is taking his Gulf Coast dining concept to the east side of the Mississippi River. The owner of Gulf Shores Restaurant and Grill, which opened in Creve Coeur nearly eight years ago, is adding a second location in Edwardsville. The newest Gulf Shores will be located at 215 Harvard Drive in the space formerly occupied by a Pita Pit, next door to Oriental Spoon.

Parker said Edwardsville’s steady growth, its proximity to Southern Illinois University Edwardsville, and “the uniqueness of our offering: great seafood and Cajun food” were all incentives to sign a lease in the burgeoning community. “I’ve had my sights on Edwardsville close to a year,” he said.

The permitting process is underway, and Parker anticipates a late September or early October opening after 10 to 12 weeks of demolition. Upon completion, the 3,800-square-foot space will offer seating for 160 guests and patio dining.



Meatless Monday: Joanie’s Pizzeria’s Favorite Veggie

Monday, June 30th, 2014



A veggie pizza might sound like a humdrum solution for a Meatless Monday, but not when it’s Joanie’s Pizzeria’s Favorite Veggie. This specialty pie from the Soulard pizza joint bursts with the bright flavors of colorful, fresh produce. Summer squash, spinach, mushrooms, yellow onions and roasted garlic all claim space on this pie, and a light tomato sauce walks a balanced line between acid and sugar. Watery vegetables like spinach can easily turn a thin crust into goo, but not here. Ours was toothsome from edge to center, and it took four Sauce staffers less than five minutes to devour all 16 inches of it. Next time, we’re ordering two.



Best of Brunch: Hiro Asian Kitchen, Bixby’s, Half & Half

Sunday, June 29th, 2014

When the weekend rolls around, our minds are on one thing: brunch. We can’t wait to pass away a lazy Sunday at a spot where the people are friendly, the bloody marys are strong (and sometimes bottomless) and pretty much everything is crowned with a sunny egg or served with a short stack. That’s why our June issue celebrates the very Best of Brunch, our top 11 places to indulge in the best meal of the week.

Here, find out why Hiro Asian Kitchen, Bixby’s and Half & Half made our list:



Hiro Asian Kitchen: 1405 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.4476,
Brunch: Sun. – 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

When Asian flavors are on your mind, Hiro Asian Kitchen is the answer. Put a comb to that bed-head and hit up one of the most stylish brunches in town (with spectacularly snazzy décor to match). Hiro showcases contemporary interpretations of breakfast and lunch dishes from China, Malaysia, Vietnam, Thailand, Taiwan and other Southeast Asian nations. You’ll also find familiar American a.m. fare reimagined with Pac Rim ingredients, like the parfait-esque sweet tofu pudding; the green tea waffle (pictured) drizzled with sake syrup and topped with vanilla ice cream, house-made coconut cream and fresh fruit; and the Kaya Toast, a Malaysian-style French toast with house-made sweet coconut egg jam and a fried egg on the side. Out late clubbing on Washington Avenue? Wake up with the Hiro Slinger, which features bulgogi beef, tater tots, chipotle mayo, spicy cheese sauce and an over-easy egg. From a pair of bloodies to the mimosa to the Lychee-lini, a modified bellini that subs puréed lychee for peach, the brunch cocktails here are filled to the brim with delicious Asian distinction. – L.F.



Bixby’s: Missouri History Museum, 2nd floor, 5700 Lindell
Blvd., St. Louis, 314.361.7313, bixbys-mohistory.com
Brunch: Sun. – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Bixby’s is practically a St. Louis institution, tucked in a natural-lit corner on the second floor of the Missouri History Museum. Floor-to-ceiling windows ensure an unimpeded view of Forest Park, and among the after-church crowd and small family gatherings you’ll dine in a quiet bustle of activity. You can either visit the buffet to fill your plate yourself, or order as much as you want from the restaurant’s a la carte menu, then settle in while the staff brings it straight from chef Callaghan Carter’s hands to yours. In either case, you’ll be handing over $25.75 – and that includes a glass of Champagne.

We recommend the eggs Benedict of the day. During our visit, the big B included rich slices of Black Forest ham, a poached egg and locally sourced sunflower sprouts delicately arranged on top. Save room for a heaping portion of the bread pudding with caramel sauce (pictured), the capstone to this delicious – if staidly traditional – brunch experience. – G.F.



Half & Half: 8135 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0719,
Brunch: Sat. and Sun. – 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Eggs and coffee are the heroes of brunch, and Half & Half knows how to do both equally well. On Saturdays and Sundays, it offers a special brunch menu of three items with fresh, seasonal ingredients and, as always, eggs. These, by the way, are executed with precision, whether they’re perfectly poached atop the Soft-Shelled Crab Benedict; scrambled to a golden fluff and stuffed in breakfast tacos with chorizo; or simply served sunny side up to finish The Mom Hash, an earthy mix of mushrooms, spinach, snow peas, prosciutto and carrots. Since the wait for a table can last up to an hour on weekends, pass the time by indulging in Half & Half’s excellent coffee program, which outstrips just about everyone else in town. The menu includes everything from pour-overs to cold brews to drip coffee to espresso drinks, all brewed from thoughtfully selected and delicious beans. Try the Rwandan Rulindo (pictured) from Handsome Coffee Roasters in a pour-over and you won’t be disappointed. – M.N.

-photos by Carmen Troesser


By the Book: Faith Durand’s Blueberry Angel Food Trifle

Saturday, June 28th, 2014


When summer hits St. Louis, we stay cool by any means necessary – and that includes avoiding the oven. Who wants to add extra degrees to an already hot kitchen? Faith Durand, executive editor of The Kitchn and author of the new cookbook, Bakeless Sweets, couldn’t agree more. The recipes in this book disavow the oven in favor of the refrigerator, the freezer, and in a few cases, the assistance of the stove. And who knew there were so many no-bake desserts to choose from? Durand divides her book into seven chapters: stirred puddings and custards; rice, tapioca and whole-grain puddings; panna cotta and other gelled puddings; mousse and blended puddings; real fruit jellies; whipped cream desserts and fluffs; and icebox cakes, pies, trifles and cookies.

With Fourth of July right around the corner and berry season in full swing, I decided to prepare Durand’s Blueberry Angel Food Trifle. To keep things patriotic, I substituted half the blueberries for juicy red strawberries (which also happen to be my Kryptonite).




The homemade pudding was the best part of the trifle by far. Do not cheat and reach for the boxed stuff, as tempting as it may be. I promise the extra effort required for Durand’s Rich Vanilla Pudding is well worth it; I found myself wishing I had doubled the recipe to eat again later.




Pudding novices like me can handle this recipe; Durand outlines every step clearly and concisely. Have a good whisk ready, as you will use it during almost every step. My biggest fear was tempering the slurry, but I followed the directions exactly and was rewarded with a bubbling custard that smelled “like the best vanilla ice cream ever,” according to my kid sister.




After the adult-task of making the pudding is complete, kid sous chefs love to help layer the cake and sprinkle the fruit, as my sister did. After tasting the trifle, I wish the cake cubes were a little smaller (bite-sized pieces would have made for easier eating), but the larger pieces supported all the pudding and fruit well, even two days after creating it. This treat was sweet, refreshing, and most important, cold – a perfect summer dessert.




Blueberry Angel Food Trifle
8 servings

About 8 cups (12- to 16-oz.) cubed angel food cake,
1 batch Rich Vanilla Pudding, well chilled (Recipe follows.)
4 cups blueberries
2/3 cup cream
1 Tbsp. powdered sugar
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

• Spread about one-third of the cake cubes in the bottom of a large trifle bowl (or any deep 3- to 4-quart bowl). Spread about one-third of the pudding over the cubes and top with one-quarter of the blueberries. Repeat twice, finishing with the third layer of pudding.
• In the bowl of a stand mixer (or in a large bowl using a hand mixer), whip the cream with the sugar and vanilla until it holds soft peaks. Spread it over the top and garnish with the remaining blueberries. Refrigerate the trifle for at least 2 hours, or up to 24, before serving.

Rich Vanilla Pudding
8 Servings

¼ cup cornstarch
½ tsp. salt
1½ cup cream
3 large egg yolks
2 cups whole milk
6 Tbsp. sugar
1 vanilla bean or 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

• Make a cornstarch and egg yolk slurry: Put the cornstarch and salt in a medium bowl and whisk out any lumps. Slowly whisk in the cream, making sure there are no lumps. Whisk in the egg yolks. It is important that this mixture be as smooth as you can make it. (To be really sure, reach into the bowl and gently rub out any lumps with your fingers.).
• Warm the milk and open a vanilla bean: Warm the milk with the sugar over medium heat in a 3-quart saucepan. Meanwhile, if you are using the vanilla bean*, open and scrape it out into the pan. Whisk the mixture so the vanilla seeds are incorporated into the liquid. (It should looked speckled, like milk after an Oreo has been dunked in it repeatedly!) When the vanilla bean has been scraped out, drop the entire pod into the milk as well. Warm until bubbles form around the edge of the milk and the entire surface begins to vibrate. Remove the vanilla bean and discard it. Turn off the heat.
• Temper the slurry: Pour 1 cup of the hot milk into the bowl with the slurry. Whisk vigorously to combine. The mixture should come together smoothly, with no lumps. If you see any, add a little more liquid and whisk them out. Pour the combined mixture back into the pot slowly, counting to 10 as you do and whisking vigorously.
• Thicken the pudding: Turn the heat back on to medium. As the milk comes to a simmer, stir constantly but slowly with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom of the pan evenly so that the milk doesn’t scorch or form a thick skin on the bottom of the pan. In 2 to 5 minutes, the custard will come to a boil, with large bubbles that slowly pop up to the surface. Boil, whisking constantly, for 2 minutes.
• Flavor the pudding: Turn off the heat. (If you didn’t use a vanilla bean, stir in the vanilla extract now.)
• Chill the pudding: Immediately pour the hot custard into a shallow container. Place plastic wrap or buttered wax paper directly on the surface of the pudding (if you don’t like pudding skin). Put a lid on the dish and refrigerate it. This pudding is firm enough to be eaten warm after 30 minutes or so in the refrigerator.

*To scrape a vanilla bean, lay the bean flat on a cutting board and use a small, sharp pairing knife to make a slit down its entire length. Splay it open with your fingers over the pot of warming milk, and run the tip of a spoon (or the knife, carefully) down the length of the bean to thoroughly scrape out the paste of tiny seeds inside.

Reprinted with permission from Stewart, Tabori & Chang

What’s the best no-bake dessert you’ve ever made? Tell us about it in the comments below for a chance to win a copy of Bakeless Sweets.

And now, congratulations to Earen, whose comment on last week’s By the Book won a copy of Extra Virgin. Earen, keep an eye out for an email from the Sauce crew!

Drink This Weekend Edition: 8-Bit Pale Ale

Friday, June 27th, 2014



Great beer label design is its own art form today, meant to intrigue and entice you from shelves filled with dozens, sometimes hundreds, of brews. Some you just can’t ignore, like the pixelated, video game-style graphics on a bright orange can of 8-Bit Pale Ale from Kansas’ Tallgrass Brewing – and you shouldn’t ignore the brew inside, either.

Tallgrass bills 8-Bit as a “Hop Rocketed pale ale.”  This method sees brewers cycle a batch of beer through a stainless-steel vessel filled with their choice of hops just before canning to extract extra hop oils, which add to the aroma and flavor profiles. 8-Bit’s spin in the Hop Rocket with Galaxy hops creates a unique American Pale Ale with a tropical melon note. Pair that with a malty, almost honey-like body, and you have a truly balanced beer.

If pouring, 8-Bit is a slightly golden amber color with a thick, frothy white head; if no glass is allowed at your venue, 8-Bit is great straight from the can, too (See more great craft beers in cans here.). At 5.2 percent ABV, drink this one with a burger off the grill and prepare for a great night. 8-Bit is available at most craft beer shops and many grocery stores.

The Scoop: Lemmons in South City to close

Friday, June 27th, 2014



Tonight is your last night to grab a slice of pizza at Lemmons. The South City bar and music joint located at 5800 Gravois Ave., is closing doors, according to an annoucement yesterday, June 26, on Facebook. The post added that the restaurant’s last day depends on how long it takes for the food and drink to run out. “We will be selling what we have and not buying more,” the post read. “Come thursday and friday (sic) for your last chance at a lemmons pizza.”

As reported by Kevin C. Johnson of The St. Louis Post-Dispatch, owner Michael Gross is closing Lemmons’ doors after an exhaustive 12 years in the industry. Lemmons, which opened in 2002 in Bevo Mill, was known for its pizza, trivia nights and original local music.

Lemmons is yet another restaurant throwing in the towel this month, including Tripel, The Nest, Brazkiat, Harvest and Lola. Calls to Lemmons requesting comment were not immediately returned.



Tweet Beat: The week’s best tweets from #STL foodies

Friday, June 27th, 2014

Are you following us on Twitter? Come on, get Saucy @saucemag



You know you’re in the country when this is an arcade game option.

: Baby Blue getting checked out by the best! @westcountynissan pic.twitter.com/wsfsnRYg1X” looking good

Saturday mornings are made for sipping cappuccinos & making up grocery lists.

@TheCivilLife: Actually this is possible…“If I could replace water for rest of my life with @TheCivilLife Brown ale I would.” Sign me up!

Luis Suarez: That’s Chiellini, not Chianti, not meant to be eaten w/ fava beans #Azzura #worldcup @chiellini

Some of Stl’s finest! Not me though. @kzieff @cnashd @knashan @RickJLewis1 @Pigpicker @cookingkid! Great night!

The Osborn girls love @PintSizeBakery! #nicklovesyouroatmealcreampies

Best summer sandwich: Toasted bread. Mayonnaise. Salt & pepper. Huge chunks of fresh tomato and avocado. You can thank me later.

Great meal at KC’s @colbygarrelts Rye last night. Staff was terrific. Thanks for the rec @knashan.


Think you should be on this list? Follow us and let us know @saucemag

The Weekend Project: Banh Mi

Thursday, June 26th, 2014



When summer hits St. Louis, we imagine it feels like the streets of Saigon: humidity so heavy it purges every pore as you walk through what feels like the inside of a fishbowl. It makes sense then, that during these steamy months, we get a hankering the cool, refreshing flavors of Vietnamese street food. The banh mi, a classic example of the forced marriage between French colonial and Southeast Asian cuisines, is light, packed with vibrant flavors, and filling without weighing you down.

According to a “Wall Street Journal” article by Robyn Eckhardt, during French occupation, the Vietnamese called the newly introduced baguettes banh tay or “foreign cake.” These loaves, eaten only by the wealthy, were dipped into sweetened condensed milk as a treat. The name later evolved to banh mi or “foreign wheat;” today, baguettes in Vietnam contain wheat and rice flours, lightening the bread and increasing the crispiness of the crust.

After the Vietnamese diaspora, banh mi fillings now hail from all parts of the world. Baguettes are filled with roast chicken, grilled pork, crisp pork skin, meatballs, even tinned sardines in tomato sauce. Here in St. Louis, restaurants stuff their banh mi with shredded pork, “specialty ham” and vegetarian and vegan options topped with crushed peanuts. It’s like the ubiquitous day-after-Thanksgiving leftover sandwich – anything goes.

In addition to making your own pâté and roast pork, try your hand at making your own baguette. The dough for this French country-style loaf is simple and only requires three ingredients. The goal is to use as little flour as possible so that the yeast can create a light, airy loaf and to let the bread rise three times. All three rises can be completed in one day, or take your time and let the first or second rise take place overnight in the refrigerator.




A traditional banh mi is quite simple: smear both sides of a split, warm baguette with aioli or chicken liver pâté, stuff it with headcheese or cold cuts, then finish with a bright, crisp assortment of cilantro, do chua (pickled carrots), hot pepper slices, cucumbers and more.

This month, build a banh mi buffet and then beckon neighbors and friends for a weekend celebration without straining your budget. Spread the work over a weekend and enjoy on Sunday night with plenty of leftovers to carry you through a few hot St. Louis summer days.

The Gameplan
Day 1: Make the Pâté de Campagne. Roast the Char Siu Pork. Start the French bread.
Day 2: Bake the French bread. Prepare the do chua and the spicy aioli. Unmold the pate. Assemble the banh mi.

The Shopping List*
4 lbs. pork shoulder
8 oz. chicken or pork livers
8 oz. bacon
½ cup yellow onion
¾ cup flat Italian parsley
1 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves
5 large eggs
3 Tbsp. brandy or high-alcohol fruit liquor
½ cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp. bay leaf powder
2 Tbsp. cloves
2 Tbsp. mace
2 Tbsp. nutmeg
2 Tbsp. paprika
1 Tbsp. allspice
5 Tbsp. white pepper
3 Tbsp. hoisin sauce
3 Tbsp. soy sauce
3 Tbsp. shallot or red onion, minced
2 Tbsp. Shaohsing Rice Cooking Wine** or other rice wine
1 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 tsp. Chinese five-spice
2 packages (5½ tsp.) active dry yeast
6 to 7 cups bread flour
3 to 4 carrots
1 large daikon
1 1/3 cups Datu Puti Premium cane vinegar** or apple cider vinegar
1 Tbsp. whole coriander
1 bunch cilantro
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 lime
2 Tbsp. Sriracha

*This list assumes you have garlic, dried thyme, kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper, all-purpose flour, cinnamon, canola or vegetable oil, honey and sugar at hand in your kitchen. If not, you will need to purchase these items, too.
** Shaohsing Rice Cooking Wine and Datu Puti premium cane vinegar are available at Seafood City Supermarket in University City.



Pâté de Campagne
Adapted from a recipe from The Splendid Table and Julia Child’s The Way to Cook
Makes 1 4-lb. terrine

2 lbs. pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch chunks
2 Tbsp. bay leaf powder
2 Tbsp. cloves
2 Tbsp. mace
2 Tbsp. nutmeg
2 Tbsp. paprika
2 Tbsp. dried thyme
1 Tbsp. allspice
1 Tbsp. cinnamon
5 Tbsp. white pepper
8 oz. chicken or pork livers, cleaned and cut into chunks
¾ cup chopped flat Italian parsley
½ cup chopped yellow onion
½ cup heavy cream
2 large eggs
3 Tbsp. kosher salt
3 Tbsp. brandy or high-alcohol fruit liquor (We used The Big O Ginger liqueur.)
2 Tbsp. minced garlic
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 bay leaf
8 oz. bacon

Special equipment: meat grinder attachments for stand mixer

Day 1: Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.
• Spread the pork shoulder pieces evenly on a baking sheet. Freeze 20 to 30 minutes.
• Meanwhile, pulse the bay leaf powder, cloves, mace, nutmeg, paprika, dried thyme, allspice, cinnamon and white pepper in a coffee grinder or spice mill until well ground. Reserve 1½ teaspoon of spice mixture; store remaining mixture in an airtight container for another use.
• Affix the meat grinder attachment to the stand mixer. Carefully feed the chilled pork through the machine using a large die into a very large mixing bowl.
• Add the reserved spice mixture, the chicken livers, parsley, yellow onion, heavy cream, eggs, salt, brandy, garlic, flour, fresh thyme and black pepper to the meat and mix well with your hands or a large wooden spoon.
• Process the mixture through the sausage grinder again, using a small die. Fry a small patty in a saute pan until cooked through and taste. Adjust seasoning as needed.


• Place a bay leaf in the center of a loaf pan, then line the loaf plan completely with bacon. Fill the loaf pan with the meat mixture and press it down firmly. Fold the bacon ends over the ground meat and cover the pan tightly with foil.
• Place the pâté in a larger roasting pan and fill it with water until it reaches halfway up the sides of the loaf pan.
• Bake the pâté 50 minutes, until the interior temperature reaches 150 degrees. Remove the foil and continue baking another 5 to 10 minutes, until the temperature reaches 155 degrees. Remove the roasting pan from the oven and take the pâté out of the water bath. The pâté will continue cooking as it rests and will reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees.
• Place the pate in another roasting pan or baking dish with a lip (It will leak juices as it cools.). Place a second loaf pan on top and weigh it down with 2 or 3 canned goods and let rest. Once the pâté is cooled, refrigerate overnight to set completely.
Day 2: Gently run a knife around the pate to remove it from the pan and turn it out on a cutting board. Slice and use for banh mi. Pâté will keep, wrapped and refrigerated, at least 1 week.



Char Siu Roast Pork
Adapted from Andrea Nguyen’s Into the Vietnamese Kitchen
4 to 6 servings

3 Tbsp. hoisin sauce
3 Tbsp. soy sauce
3 Tbsp. minced shallot or red onion
2 Tbsp. honey
2 Tbsp. canola or vegetable oil
2 Tbsp. Shaohsing rice cooking wine
2 Tbsp. minced garlic
1 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 tsp. Chinese five-spice
2 lbs. pork shoulder roast

Day 1: Whisk together the hoisin, soy sauce, shallot, honey, oil, rice wine, garlic, fish sauce and five-spice until well blended. Pour all ingredients into a gallon-sized zip-top bag. Place the meat in the marinade, seal the bag and refrigerate at least 6 hours.
• Remove the meat from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes to 1 hour before roasting and allow it to come to room temperature. Preheat the oven to 475 degrees.
• Place the roast on a rack in a roasting pan. Reserve the marinade for basting. Roast the pork shoulder 30 to 45 minutes, basting every 10 minutes with the marinade, until the internal temperature reaches 145 degrees. Let the pork rest on a cutting board at least 10 minutes. Slice and use for banh mi. Roast will keep, wrapped in plastic wrap, refrigerated up to 1 week or frozen up to 3 months.



French Bread
Makes 4 baguettes

2 packages (5½ tsp.) active dry yeast
5 to 6 cups bread flour, divided, plus more for kneading
1½ Tbsp. kosher salt

Day 1: Proof the yeast by pouring 2½ cups warm water in a large mixing bowl and stirring in the yeast and up to ½ cup flour. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes, until the mixture begins to bubble and smells yeasty.
• Stir in 1 cup of flour at a time, mixing in each with a long wooden spoon or bread whisk. The longer the dough is mixed, the better developed the strands of gluten will be, resulting in a higher, lighter loaf. When almost all the flour has been added, mix in the salt until the well incorporated and tacky.


• Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead 5 to 10 minutes, until it is evenly incorporated and feels soft and elastic. Place the dough into a large, clean mixing bowl and cover with oiled plastic wrap.
• Place the dough in a warm place and let it rise 1½ hours, until the dough has doubled in size. Punch down the dough and flip it over to keep it evenly moist. Cover again with oiled plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight to rise again.
Day 2: Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let come to room temperature. Turn the dough out on a floured surface. Using a very sharp knife, slice the dough into 4 equally weighted pieces.
• Place a pizza stone or upside-down baking sheet in the oven and preheat to 450 degrees.


• Using floured hands, gently shape a piece of dough into a 1-inch thick rounded rectangle about the size of a standard business envelope.
• Fold the side of the rectangle closest to you up as if folding a letter into thirds, pressing the dough together to push out any air bubbles. Gently roll the dough back and forth with your hands, securing the shape. The dough will start to lengthen.
• Fold the top third of the dough into the bottom third, pressing the dough together to push out any air bubbles. Gently roll the dough into a long tube until the desired baguette length is reached. Tuck the ends under to shape them, if necessary.


• Place the baguette on a baguette rising pan or a clean, floured kitchen towel. Repeat the folding method with the remaining pieces of dough, leaving 2 to 3 inches between each loaf on the towel. When all the baguettes are formed, pull the extra fabric between each loaf straight up, creating a small barrier between each loaf and creating a small trough where each loaf can rise. Use a very sharp knife to slice 3 to 4 slits in the top of each loaf to release any air. Cover the loaves with oiled plastic wrap and let rise 20 minutes.
• Fill an oven-safe dish with 10 to 12 ice cubes and place on the bottom of the hot oven. This will provide the steam that will create a crisp crust for the baguettes.
• Place the baguette rising pan in the oven. If using the towel method, flip a baking sheet over, and line the bottom with parchment paper and dust with flour. Using floured hands, gently move the baguettes onto the parchment paper. Then slide the paper onto the hot pizza stone or baking sheet. Bake 20 to 25 minutes, until the baguettes sound hollow when tapped and are a light brown. Use for banh mi. Baguettes wrapped in plastic wrap will keep 3 to 5 days.




Do Chua (Quick Pickled Carrots and Daikon)
Makes 1 quart

3 to 4 carrots, julienned lengthwise
½ to 2/3 of a large daikon, julienned lengthwise
1 1/3 cups Datu Puti Premium cane vinegar or apple cider vinegar
2/3 cup sugar
1 Tbsp. salt
1 Tbsp. whole coriander seeds
1 bunch cilantro

Day 2: Mix the carrots and daikon in a bowl, then pack into a quart container with a tight-fitting lid.
• Place the remaining ingredients in a heavy-bottomed 6- to 8-quart pot with 2 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 10 to 15 minutes until fragrant.
• Strain the brine through a fine mesh sieve into a large pitcher or other pourable container. Pour the hot brine over the vegetables, filling the container. Discard any remaining pickling liquid. Cover the container and refrigerate. The pickles are ready to use as soon as they are cool. Use for banh mi, or keep refrigerated several months.

Spicy Aioli
Makes 1 pint

3 egg yolks
2 Tbsp. Sriracha
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. salt
Juice of 1 lime
1 cup canola or vegetable oil

Day 2: In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the egg yolks, Sriracha, mustard, salt and lime juice until combined. With the machine running, slowly drizzle the oil into the mixture until the aioli is emulsified, using as little or as much oil as needed. Taste and adjust seasoning. Use for banh mi. Aioli will keep, refrigerated, up to 1 week.



-photos by Michelle Volansky

The Scoop: The Nest to close doors by Aug. 1

Wednesday, June 25th, 2014



Family-focused The Nest announced via Facebook today, June 25, that it will be closing its doors. Owner Christina McHugh said the final day is still pending, but the business will close by Aug. 1, and the spot will reopen under new ownership as an event space.

The restaurant/family community center, located at 10440 German Blvd., in Frontenac, opened in December 2013 as a place where parents and children could dine, as well as take classes in yoga, art, wellness and more. The announcement comes on the heels of other area restaurant closings this month, including Harvest, Tripel, Brazikat and Lola.

McHugh said The Nest’s target demographic – women with young children – ultimately proved to be too difficult to maintain when the long, cold winter finally broke. “We did very well in the winter, and in April, May and June, we just didn’t have the customer support that we needed to survive in the warm months,” she said. “There’s such a plethora of wonderful, free places for parents to go with their kids … we couldn’t stay in business.”



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