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Archive for October, 2016

Internship Opportunity: Editorial Intern

Monday, October 31st, 2016

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Attention journalism, communications and English students: Sauce Magazine is seeking Editorial Interns for spring and summer 2017. We need students with a passion for the St. Louis food scene who want to translate that love to print and online media.

As a Sauce Editorial Intern, you will:

-Assist Sauce editorial team with the production of the monthly print publication and daily online products. Duties include, but are not limited to, reporting, conducting interviews, writing articles for The Scoop, fact checking, assisting with research for upcoming articles, interview transcription, etc.
-Attend occasional events and tastings with the Sauce editorial team, gaining real-world experience as a food journalist.
-Hone your reporting, writing and editing skills with the goal of producing published clips for use in future portfolios.
-Work with events coordinator to assist with Food Truck Fridays beginning in May.
-Perform other duties as assigned

The Sauce Editorial Intern must have:

-A passion for the St. Louis food scene and the written word
-A working knowledge of AP Style, grammar rules, Microsoft Office and Mac computer systems
-A working knowledge of various social media platforms (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest, Snapchat, etc.)
-Experience conducting phone interviews and writing news articles for print/online publication
-A personable and professional attitude in online, phone and written communication
-The ability to manage his or her time efficiently; should be a self-starter
-A reliable mode of transportation

This internship is unpaid; a spring intern begins in mid-January. A summer intern begins after Memorial Day. Scheduling is flexible, but the intern must be available 10 to 12 hours a week. Interested applicants may submit a cover letter, resume and three to five writing clips to Catherine Klene, managing editor, digital, at cklene@saucemagazine.com. All resumes must be submitted no later than Wednesday, Nov. 23. No calls, please.

Extra Sauce: In case you missed it…

Monday, October 31st, 2016

From Ben Poremba’s newest restaurant to a fire at Waterloo’s newest brewery, here’s what went down in the St. Louis restaurant scene last week, in case you missed it…

 

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1. Three months after closing Old Standard Fried Chicken, Ben Poremba has a new concept ready to debut: Nixta, a Mexican restaurant at 1621 Tower Grove Ave. A soft opening is slated for Nov. 11.

2. After nearly three years in business, Nathalie’s is closing doors at 4365 Lindell Blvd., in the Central West End. Owner Nathalie Pettus said the restaurant’s last day will be Saturday, Nov. 5.

 

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3. Cherokee Street has a new spot for cheap, late-night eats and just one more round. The B-Side hosted a soft opening on Friday, Oct. 21 at 2709 Cherokee St.

4. The former catering arm of Local Harvest Grocery is under new ownership, emerging as Seed Sprout Spoon. Erin Wiles and The Civil Life’s former chef Brendan Kirby quietly purchased the business in August, finishing up existing catering contracts before making the transition.

 

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5. Two months after closing doors at his Spanish tapas restaurant, owner Brendan Marsden opened doors at Mona’s, an American-Italian joint, on Oct. 19.

6. Just one month after opening, a fire broke out at Hopskeller Brewing Co. on Oct. 23. Owner Matt Schweizer said the cause of the fire has not yet been determined, and no one was injured.

 

 

 

The Scoop: Nathalie’s to close Nov. 5  

Saturday, October 29th, 2016

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After nearly three years in business, Nathalie’s is closing doors at 4365 Lindell Blvd., in the Central West End. Owner Nathalie Pettus said the restaurant’s last day will be Saturday, Nov. 5, as reported by St. Louis Magazine.

Pettus, who also owns the 327-acre Overlook Farm in Clarksville, said operating two businesses so far from each other was too difficult to maintain. “It’s so bittersweet,” she said. “It’s just too much with two endeavors 65 miles apart.”

Pethus will sell the building (which also saw life as Salt and Savor) to focus on operations at Overlook Farm, which raises and sells chicken, beef, pork, duck, tilapia and catfish, and grows produce in 26 hoop houses. It also serves as a popular weekend getaway destination and event venue. “It’s really hard,” she said. “I expected to be walking around in the space when I’m in my 90s. “But I hope to one day come back and eat someone else’s food in the space.”

Nathalie’s opened in December 2013 and hosted regular entertainment acts, too. “The best part is getting to know the people,” Pettus said. “We’ve had some incredible guests and incredible musicians, some of St. Louis’ finest. It’s been very special getting to know them and getting to showcase them.”

 

 

First Look: The B-Side on Cherokee Street

Friday, October 28th, 2016

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Cherokee Street has a new spot for cheap, late-night eats and just one more round. The B-Side hosted a soft opening on Friday, Oct. 21 at 2709 Cherokee St.

As The Scoop reported in March, co-owners Francis Rodriguez and Joe Timm had their eyes on the spot down the street from their restaurant, Yaqui’s, when Los Punk unceremoniously shuttered doors at the end of 2015. The newly stripped down, 49-seat space is dominated by a large neon B hovering about an old-school jukebox. A patio out back seat a dozen more.

Timm said the goal was to have a late-night hangout where people could grab a burger and pint of beer in two minutes for less than $5. Hence, The B-Side’s single draft beer (Stag) and four canned options: Busch, Budweiser, Pabst Blue Ribbon and 4 Hands Citywide. A small spirits selection is available, too.

The B-side’s food menu consists of two primary items: burgers and vegan chili. The restaurant grills the patties outside on patio, then holds them in a broth of Stag, Worchestershire sauce and onions. Single and double patties and the usual toppings are available, as well as the house Comeback Sauce – a spicy mayo-based dressing reminiscent of In-N-Out’s famous burger sauce.

The B-Side is currently open Monday to Saturday from 7 p.m. to 1:30 a.m. and Sunday from 7 p.m. to midnight. Here’s a first look at what to expect when you swing by for a late-night snack:

 

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

 

Editor’s note: This post originally misspelled Joe Timm’s last name. It was updated to correct the error. 

-photos by Michelle Volansky 

The Weekend Project: Pretzels and Beer Cheese

Friday, October 28th, 2016

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Soft pretzels fresh from the oven are practically an out-of-body experience – especially when paired with beer cheese sauce, pungent mustard and a pint of a good beer.

Bad pretzels, on the other hand, are not worth the energy it takes to chew them. The disappointment of a stale or soggy pretzel can only be soothed with a significant amount of dark chocolate.

Don’t take chances on such despair. Homemade pretzels are not difficult, and with the right chemicals, safety gear and a friend to help shape and consume, this is a perfect activity for a Halloween weekend.

Like bagels, pretzels are made from a simple yeast dough that’s sweetened with malt syrup. After a short rise, they are shaped, submerged in a lye solution, and then baked for a few minutes. While a baking soda-based alkaline solution does produce pretzels with decent chew, a short bath in lye produces a much more robust color and flavor.

 

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Working with food-grade lye (available online) does require a few precautions. Be sure to wear clean rubber gloves, eye covering and an apron or smock to protect against any splashes. Also, work in a well-ventilated area. We took this step outside to avoid any overwhelming fumes.

And before you write this recipe off as too much work – yes, I hate buying extra equipment and ingredients for one recipe, too. I am always open to substitutions, but after hearing the results of other homemade pretzel experiments, the mad scientist in me was curious enough to see for myself. The conclusion in our household was unanimous: pretzels dipped in lye had a much better aroma, chew and color than those made with baking soda solution and were by far the favorite.

We provided you with a lovely, roux-based beer cheese sauce, but if you feel like upping your mad scientist game this weekend, a little sodium citrate will take the creamy texture of your sauce to the next level.

 

The Shopping List*
2 Tbsp. malt syrup
1 Tbsp. (1¾ oz.) active dry yeast
4 to 4½ cup bread flour
½ cup food-grade lye
Coarse sea salt
2 Tbsp. flour or 5½ g. sodium citrate
6 oz. lager
3 to 4 oz. sharp cheddar cheese, finely shredded
Splash of Louisiana-style hot sauce
¼ tsp. paprika

*This list assumes you have kosher salt and butter at hand in your kitchen. If not, you will need to purchase those items, too.

 

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Mad Scientist Pretzels
8 servings

1½ cup warm water (approximately 110 degrees)
2 Tbsp. malt syrup*
1 Tbsp. (1¾ oz.) active dry yeast
2 tsp. kosher salt
4 to 4½ cup bread flour
2 quarts cold water
½ cup food-grade lye**
Coarse sea salt

Special equipment: clean rubber gloves, protective eyewear, apron, large nonreactive (plastic or glass) bowl

• In the bowl of a stand mixer with the dough hook attached, combine the warm water, yeast, malt syrup and kosher salt. Let rest 5 minutes until the liquid begins to bubble.
• With the mixer on low speed, add the flour 1 cup at a time until the dough begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl. Increase to medium speed and knead the dough 5 to 6 minutes, adding more flour if it is too sticky. The dough should be soft, but not wet.
• Place the dough in a large mixing bowl and cover with a dry towel or oiled plastic wrap. Let rise 30 to 45 minutes, until it has doubled in size.
• Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Lightly oil a baking sheet.
• Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces. On a lightly floured surface, roll and gently stretch the 1 piece of dough into a 2-foot long rope. To make a traditional pretzel, form the rope into a U-shape. Cross one side over the other, then twist and fold the ends down to the bottom of the U and press gently to adhere. Place the pretzel on the baking sheet and repeat with the remaining dough pieces.
• Don clean rubber gloves, protective eyeware and an apron. In a well-ventilated space, add the cold water and lye to a large nonreactive bowl and mix with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula until the lye dissolves.
• Use gloved hands to gently submerge 1 pretzel in the lye bath 10 seconds. Return to the baking sheet and sprinkle with the coarse sea salt. Repeat with the remaining pretzels.
• Bake 10 to 12 minutes, until the pretzels are browned. Remove from cooking sheet and cool on a rack. Serve with beer cheese sauce or coarse-grain mustard.

*Available at Whole Foods
**Available online

 

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Beer Cheese Sauce No. 1
2 cups

2 Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. flour
6 oz. lager
3 to 4 oz. sharp cheddar cheese, finely shredded
Splash of Louisiana-style hot sauce
¼ tsp. paprika

• In a small pot over medium-low heat, melt the butter and add the flour and stir 2 minutes, scraping the sides to completely cook the flour. Add the beer and continue stirring until it warm.
• Add the cheese and stir until melted. Let simmer, stirring, until the beer has reduce and the cheese sauce reaches the desired consistency. A thick sauce takes about 5 minutes.
• Stir in the hot sauce and paprika and serve with pretzels. Sauce will keep, refrigerated, in an airtight container for several weeks.

 

Beer Cheese Sauce No. 2
Adapted from a recipe from The Modernist Cuisine
2 cups

6 oz. lager
5½ g. sodium citrate*
3 to 4 oz. sharp cheddar cheese, finely shredded
Splash of Louisiana-style hot sauce
¼ tsp. paprika

• In a small pot over medium-low heat, whisk together the beer and sodium citrate until the sodium citrate completely dissolves. Bring to a simmer.
• Whisk in the cheese 1 spoonful at a time until melted.
• Stir in the hot sauce and paprika and serve with pretzels. Sauce will keep, refrigerated, in an airtight container for several weeks.

* Available online

 

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-photos by Michelle Volansky 

The Scoop: Local Harvest Catering under new ownership as Seed Sprout Spoon

Friday, October 28th, 2016

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The former catering arm of Local Harvest Grocery is under new ownership, emerging as Seed Sprout Spoon. Erin Wiles and The Civil Life’s former chef Brendan Kirby quietly purchased the business in August, finishing up existing catering contracts before making the transition.

Seed Sprout Spoon will stay in the old Local Harvest Catering space at 3137 Morgan Ford Road, keeping the focus on local ingredients and offering plenty of the former business’ favorites like pan-seared Troutdale Farms trout and a Three Spring Farm beef tenderloin with Illinois horseradish cream.

“Ownership has changed, but what we are doing is essentially the same,” Wiles said. “I managed Local Harvest Catering for three years and managed the front of house at the cafe before that. We will have the same philosophy for local foods, and we are just revamping the menu a bit and rebranding.”

Wiles also plans to bring back counter-service Sunday brunch next month. Look for a limited, rotating menu featuring Local Harvest classics like chorizo or vegan burritos, pot pies and chili. The new brunch will also see a mimosa and bloody mary bar.

Seed Sprout Spoon will continue to focus on catering events and weddings, expanding catering service offerings, and stocking prepared food in cases at Local Harvest Grocery, St. Louis MetroMarket and TechArtista’s Silo Cafe.

Tweet Beat: The week’s top tweets from #STL foodies

Friday, October 28th, 2016

Think you should be on this list? Prove it. Tweet @SauceMag.

By the Book: How to Boil an Egg by Rose Carrarini

Friday, October 28th, 2016

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How to Boil an Egg by Rose Carrarini is full of simple, timeless egg-centric recipes from a basic poached egg to quiche and pastries. What attracted me to the book, though, was its restrained British elegance with lush stills of popovers and Eton messes by botanical artist Fiona Strickland.

I want to be the person who can make an excellent scone. The classier-sounding British biscuits have always eluded me in their simplicity, and though this recipe made a clear and even pleasant read, that remains the case. Everything from the weather to the way you fill a cup with flour can affect the amount of liquid needed to bake scone, and it’s hard to adjust ingredients without overworking the dough. However, despite being a bit dry and tough, these cute teatime snacks were delightfully savory and deeply spiced – perfect with a generous pat of butter.

Skill level: Beginner to intermediate – the directions are clear and helpful, but some dishes require a little experience, or at least cooking common sense.
Others to try: Green tarts, popovers
The verdict: Despite the bold and interesting flavor of these scones, their dryness couldn’t beat Butter & Scotch‘s biscuits and gravy.

 

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Cheddar, Leek & Curry Scones
18 small scones

4½ cups (500 g.) self-rising flour, plus extra for dusting
4 Tbsp. caster (superfine) sugar
2 tsp. curry powder
½ tsp. salt
100 g. (scant ½ cup) butter
60 g. (generous ½ cup) grated cheddar cheese
2 eggs
120 ml. (½ cup) sour cream
Lightly beaten egg, to glaze

For the leeks:
40 g. (3 Tbsp.) butter
1 Tbsp. olive oil
250 g. (9 oz.) leeks, thinly sliced
1 tsp. sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and line a baking sheet with baking parchment paper.
• First, prepare the leeks. Melt the butter with the oil in a pan, add the leeks and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 15 minutes, until very soft.
• Stir in the sugar, season with salt and pepper and leave to cool, and then chill in the refrigerator.
• Meanwhile, put the flour, sugar, curry powder, and salt into a bowl, add the butter and rub in with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fresh breadcrumbs.
• Stir in the cheese and make a well in the middle.
• Lightly beat the eggs with 3 tablespoons of the sour cream in a bowl, stir in the leek mixture, and pour into the well.
• Using a fork, stir to mix, finishing by hand to bring the dough together, adding the remaining cream if necessary. Do not overwork the dough – it should just come together softly but firmly.
• Roll or pat out the dough on a lightly floured surface to about 3 centimeters (1¼ inches) thick.
• Carefully stamp out 4 to 5 centimenter (1½- to 2-inch) rounds and put them on the prepared baking sheet.
• Brush with beaten egg to glaze. Bake for about 20 minutes, until golden.

Reprinted with permission from Phaidon

Just Five: Moroccan-spiced Spaghetti Squash

Thursday, October 27th, 2016

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While I love decorative gourds as much as the next person, I’m an edible gourd kind of gal. Pumpkin, delicata, acorn, butternut, pattypan… As soon as autumn hits, I’m throwing these at everything except my tablescape. Spaghetti squash is one variety I haven’t played with much. I love the idea of a squash that transforms into “noodles” when pulled apart with a fork, but then what? I’m not putting marinara on that “spaghetti.” Instead, I turned to the flavors I associate with autumn.

Cinnamon, cumin, cayenne, nutmeg and cardamom are all found in garam masala, one of my favorite spice blends. I added a little sweetness and texture from golden raisins and some protein with cooked lentils. A hit of chopped parsley or cilantro adds brightness that goes with the dried fruit and earthy squash. Save this recipe for a great Thanksgiving side or vegetarian entree.

 
Moroccan-spiced Spaghetti Squash
2 servings

1 medium spaghetti squash
2 pinches of kosher salt, plus more to taste
½ cup cooked lentils, divided
½ cup golden raisins or currants, divided
2 Tbsp. butter, divided
1 Tbsp. garam masala, divided
¼ cup chopped cilantro or parsley, divided

• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
• Cut the spaghetti squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds and membrane. Sprinkle each half with a pinch of salt and place cut-side down on the baking sheet.
• Bake 30 minutes, remove and let rest 10 minutes until cool enough to handle.
• Use a fork to scrape the flesh of the spaghetti squash into long strands, leaving the skins intact to use as a serving vessel. To each half, add ¼ cup lentils, ¼ cup raisins, 1 tablespoon butter and ½ tablespoon garam masala. Toss until the butter is melted and all ingredients are combined. Season to taste with salt, garnish with cilantro and serve.

 

Dee Ryan is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and regularly pens Make This.

 

Grilled: Smoked Trout Chowder

Thursday, October 27th, 2016

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Smoked trout is a rich, delectable and incredibly versatile ingredient. Infused with rustic wood smoke, these fillets are perfect in dips or salads, or served as a cold appetizer or hot entree. They also make for flavor-packed centerpiece in this simple chowder recipe. Rich and creamy, soul-warming chowder is perfect for a fall afternoon.

Save yourself the headache of deboning whole trout and opt for boneless rainbow fillets. I use apple wood chips here, which produce light and sweet smoke. They are a great option for preparing trout on a smoker or a conventional charcoal grill.

 

Smoked Trout Chowder
4 to 6 servings

3 boneless rainbow trout fillets (about 1¼ lbs. total)
4 slices bacon, diced
1 medium onion, chopped
1½ cups chicken broth
1½ cups water
3 medium russet potatoes, peeled and diced
2 celery ribs, chopped
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1½ cups whole milk
1 Tbsp. flour
1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ cup minced chives, for garnish

Special equipment: 3 cups apple wood chips

• Prepare a smoker or charcoal grill for low, indirect heat.
• When the fire is ready, add 2 cups apple wood chips atop the coals. Place the trout on a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil over indirect heat. Cover and smoke 20 minutes.
• Add another 1 cup apple wood chips atop the coals, cover and smoke another 20 minutes. Remove the trout and let rest 10 minutes.
• Separate the skin from the trout and place the meat in a small bowl. Discard the skin. Cut the smoked trout into bite-sized pieces and set aside.
• In Dutch oven or large stockpot, cook the bacon over medium-low heat until browned and slightly crisp, about 10 minutes. Add the onion and cook until soft and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth, water, potatoes, celery and garlic and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Cover and cook 15 minutes.
• Add the milk, flour, Worcestershire and salt and bring the chowder to a boil over high heat. Stir in the smoked trout and remove from heat. Let cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
• Before serving, warm over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally until the chowder simmers. Serve in large bowls and garnish with chives.

 

Matt Berkley is a longtime contributor to Sauce Magazine and the Nightlife critic. 

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