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Archive for December, 2016

Grilled: Barbecue Braised Beef Pot Roast

Thursday, December 29th, 2016

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There’s nothing more satisfying on a bone-chilling night than a heaping plate of warm comfort food like braised pot roast. Seared over a mighty flame, then braised in savory broth, this recipe transforms an inexpensive cut of beef into a king’s feast. The key to this dish is temperature control: Aim for a light simmer rather than a rolling boil, and maintain the indirect heat by adding a handful of fresh coals every half-hour, along with some extra stock when the liquid level gets too low.

 

Barbecue Braised Beef Pot Roast
6 to 8 servings

3 lbs. boneless round top roast, divided into 3 equal pieces
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 medium yellow onion, diced
3 celery ribs, chopped
2 slices bacon, chopped
2 cups beef stock, divided
5 cloves garlic, chopped
½ Tbsp. kosher salt
½ Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp. dried thyme
2 Tbsp. flour
Chopped parsley for garnish
Sour cream for serving

• Prepare a charcoal grill for high, indirect heat. When the coals are calm and light gray, about 20 minutes, sear the beef on all sides, turning occasionally to prevent charring, about 10 minutes. Remove from the grill.
• Place a large cast-iron Dutch oven directly on top of coals. Add the vegetable oil and saute the onion, celery and bacon until the vegetables are translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the beef, 1 cup stock, the garlic, salt, pepper and thyme. Cover the Dutch oven and move it to the cool side of the grill. Cover the grill and cook 30 minutes, undisturbed.
• Check the level of the broth, adding more as needed to maintain 1 inch of liquid in the Dutch oven. Add 5 to 6 pieces of fresh charcoal to maintain the heat level. Cover the grill and cook 2 more hours, checking the broth level and adding 5 to 6 of pieces fresh charcoal every 30 minutes.
• Remove the Dutch oven from the grill, remove the meat and let rest. Add the flour to the braising liquid and whisk to thicken. Let cool slightly.
• To serve, slice the roast and garnish with sauce, parsley and sour cream.

 

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Grilled: Curried Spare Ribs

Grilled: Smoked Trout Chowder

Grilled: Korean Pork Steaks

 

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Extra Sauce: A tour of Herbie’s new space in Clayton

Thursday, December 29th, 2016

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It’s been a year of change for fine dining eatery Herbie’s Vintage ‘72. In May, owner Aaron Teitelbaum announced he would move the 8-year-old restaurant from its corner in the Central West End to the home of Cardwell’s in Clayton, which closed Oct. 1.

Herbie’s dropped the Vintage ’72 from its name when it moved into 8100 Maryland Ave., and opened doors to its new space in early November. Chef Chris Vomund recently took Sauce on a tour of the new 183-seat space.

 

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Customers stepping into the bar area will immediately recognize light fixtures, chairs and booths from the CWE space in a new home. Vomund said it was important to bring key elements of the former location’s character into the new restaurant. Large prints of 1920s liquor posters scattered throughout the dining area harken back to Herbie’s previous location.

 

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While many new restaurants trend toward light wood, Edison bulbs and communal tables, Herbie’s new dining room offers white tablecloths and privacy. Clusters of banquettes sectioned off by dark wood partitions and frosted glass create a sense of intimacy in the large space.

 

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A handful of additional rooms offer private dining for small six-person gatherings to larger soirees. Cardwell’s former wine room has been transformed into a 10-seat dining space equipped with a large television for presentations. And when warmer weather arrives, Herbie’s will add nearly 100 seats on its large patio that wraps around the corner from Maryland Avenue to Brentwood Boulevard.

 

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{ Herbie’s chef Chris Vomund }

 

Diners aren’t the only ones adjusting to the new space. Vomund is navigating a significantly smaller kitchen. He compared the move to downsizing from a house to a condo. However, he said this means his crew is more organized and operates more seamlessly than before, only one step away from each other.

While the dinner menu remains familiar, Vomund has added weekday lunch to serve the Clayton business crowd. The menu features soups, salads and sandwiches including a bison burger, a roasted beet Rueben and a BLTM (mozzarella, that is.) Seven heftier entrees are available for hungrier diners, such as bouillabaisse, steak frites and vegetable lasagna. Lunch is available Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Photos by Michelle Volansky

 Related Content
The Scoop: Herbie’s Vintage ’72 to move to Clayton, Cardwell’s in Clayton to close

Cooking the Classics: Chicken and Dumplings

The Scoop: Herbie’s owner to open chess-themed Kingside Diner in Central West End

Baked: Brownie Cookies with Early Grey Glaze

Thursday, December 29th, 2016

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I love to pair Earl Grey tea with chocolate. It’s flavored with bergamot, an Italian citrus that tastes somewhere between a lemon and an orange and smells a bit floral. I added bergamot extract and ground Earl Grey tea leaves to the powdered sugar glaze that tops these chewy brownie cookies. The result is a dense, almost fudgy cookie base with a sweet, lightly citrus glaze on top.

 

Brownie Cookies with Earl Grey Glaze
Adapted from a recipe at Smitten Kitchen
1 to 2 dozen cookies, depending on size

½ cup (1 stick) butter, softened
¾ cup granulated sugar
1 egg
½ tsp. vanilla extract
1½ cups flour
⅓ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
¼ tsp. baking powder
¼ tsp. kosher salt
¼ cup water, plus more to thin the icing
30 g. meringue powder*
½ Tbsp. corn syrup
½ tsp. bergamot extract
1 lb. powdered sugar
¼ tsp. ground Earl Grey tea leaves (from a teabag)

• In a large bowl, cream together the butter and sugar with an electric mixer on high speed until fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the egg and vanilla and beat on low speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and salt and beat on low speed until well combined. Wrap the dough in plastic and chill at least 1 hour.
• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Sprinkle a clean work surface with flour and roll the chilled cookie dough to ¼-inch thickness. Cut into desired shapes and place on the baking sheet.
• Bake 8 to 11 minutes, until the edges are firm and the center is slightly soft and puffed. Let cool completely on a wire rack.
• Meanwhile, make the glaze: In a medium bowl, beat together the water and meringue powder with an electric mixer on medium speed until frothy, about 1 minute. Add the corn syrup and bergamot and mix 5 seconds. Add the powdered sugar and tea leaves and mix on low speed. The mixture will be very stiff. Add water 1 splash at a time until the frosting has a toothpaste-like consistency.
• Transfer half the icing to a piping bag fitted with a round decorating tip. Carefully outline the cookies with the stiff icing.
• Transfer any icing remaining in the piping bag back to the bowl. Add water 1 teaspoon at a time until the icing reaches a glaze-like consistency. Frost inside the outlines as desired. Let dry for a few hours before enjoying.

*Meringue powder can be found at Kitchen Conservatory.

The Weekend Project: Ravioli

Thursday, December 29th, 2016

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Everyone is happier with a bag of frozen ravioli they can pull out some cold January night and share with those closest to them. Easy to make ahead and freeze, these magical little pouches can be stuffed with any tasty filling and finished with a simple red sauce, a splash of olive oil or brown butter and a little shredded Parmesan.

Laura Schenone, author of The Lost Ravioli Recipes of Hoboken, spent several years searching for the story behind her disjointed family and the food that united them. The beguiling Genoese ravioli served at Christmas kept her searching for her family’s “true” recipe. In the end, she realized that all ravioli recipes and the time spent with others in the kitchen preparing pastas, gnocchi and sauces created a sense of community that defined her family and brought them joy.

 

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I am not Italian, and I have not mastered the art of hand-rolled pasta or ravioli shaping, but I remember with great clarity the toasted ravioli I shared with visiting aunts and uncles when they came to town to celebrate. Indeed, one of my favorite Christmas packages I shipped to my cousins in New Jersey was a Styrofoam box of frozen T-ravs.

This pasta dough can be made by hand or using a stand mixer and pasta rolling attachment. Both work equally well, but for simplicity’s sake, I’ve given instructions for the stand mixer in this recipe. If you want to learn how to make the ravioli by hand, I recommend Schenone’s book, as well as Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking for detailed descriptions, photos and helpful tips on how to hand-roll pasta dough.

 

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The Shopping List*
1½ lbs. assorted mushrooms, such as cremini, oyster or shiitake
1 small red onion
1 tsp. dried thyme
4 Tbsp. sherry
¼ cup breadcrumbs
1 medium butternut squash
1¼ cups mascarpone
1½ cups shredded Parmesan
1 cup ricotta
⅛ tsp. grated nutmeg, plus more to taste
5 cups all-purpose flour
8 eggs
4 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp. finely chopped pistachios
1 Tbsp. chopped parsley
Special equipment: Pasta roller attachment for stand mixer

* This list assumes you have canola or vegetable oil, olive oil, kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper at hand in your kitchen. If not, you’ll need to purchase these items, too.

The Game Plan
Day 1: Make the butternut squash filling. Make the roasted mushroom filling. Make the pasta dough.
Day 2: Roll and fill the pasta dough. Freeze or cook the ravioli.

 

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Roasted Mushroom Filling
2 cups

6 to 8 Tbsp. canola or vegetable oil, divided
1½ lbs. assorted mushrooms, such as cremini, oyster or shiitake, stemmed and thinly sliced
1 small red onion or shallot, thinly sliced, divided
1 tsp. dried thyme, divided
4 Tbsp. sherry, divided
⅓ cup mascarpone
½ cup shredded Parmesan
½ cup ricotta
¼ cup breadcrumbs
2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Day 1: Warm a large wide-bottomed skilled over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons oil to coat the bottom of the pan and wait until it begins to smoke.
• Add enough mushrooms to fill the pan in even layer, one-quarter of the red onion and ¼ teaspoon thyme. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and pan roast 4 to 5 minutes, until the mushrooms release their liquid and are browned. Stir the mushrooms occasionally, adding 1 tablespoon sherry and more oil as needed to prevent burning.
• Place the cooked mushrooms on a baking sheet to cool and repeat the process, cooking the mushrooms in batches. Let cool completely.
• In the bowl a food processor, add the cooked mushrooms, mascarpone, Parmesan, ricotta, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper to taste and pulse until combined. Refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use.

 

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Butternut Squash Filling
2 cups

1 medium butternut squash, halved lengthwise and seeded
2 Tbsp. olive oil
3 tsp. kosher salt, divided
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
¾ cup mascarpone
½ cup shredded Parmesan
½ cup ricotta
⅛ tsp. grated nutmeg

Day 1: Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil.
• Place each squash half skin-side down on the baking sheet. Liberally coat each half with 1 tablespoon olive oil and ½ teaspoon salt and pepper.
• Roast 1 hour 15 minutes, until the squash is golden and the flesh is tender. Let cool completely, then remove ½ cup roasted squash and place into a clean dishtowel or cheesecloth. Squeeze the cloth over the sink to remove as much water as possible. Reserve the remaining squash for another use.
• In a medium mixing bowl, stir together the squash, mascarpone, Parmesan and ricotta. Stir to combine, and season with the remaining 2 teaspoons salt, the nutmeg and pepper. Refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use.

 

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Ravioli with Brown Butter Sauce
4 dozen

4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more to flour countertop
8 eggs
1 batch Butternut Squash Filling (recipe above)
1 batch Roasted Mushroom Filling (recipe above)
½ cup water
4 Tbsp. butter
½ cup shredded Parmesan cheese, shredded
1 Tbsp. finely chopped pistachios
1 Tbsp. chopped parsley
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Grated nutmeg to taste

Special equipment: Pasta roller attachment for stand mixer

Day 1: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix 2 cups flour and 4 eggs on medium speed until evenly combined, then knead 7 to 8 minutes. The dough will be smooth and not sticky. Add flour 1 teaspoon at a time until the desired consistency is reached.
• Wrap the dough tightly in plastic. Repeat with the remaining 2 cups flour and 4 eggs.
• Refrigerate the dough at least 20 minutes or overnight.
Day 2: Dust a large section of clean countertop with flour. Dust 1 baking sheet with flour.
• Cut the pasta dough into 4 equal portions. Using a stand mixer fitted with the pasta roller attachment on the thickest setting, gently feed 1 portion of dough through the roller on low speed. Repeat, then adjust the roller to the next thinnest setting and gently feed the dough through twice more. Repeat, passing the dough through twice on each progressively thinner setting until it has passed through the thinnest setting.
• Place the long sheet of pasta dough on the floured countertop. Dollop about 1 tablespoon butternut squash or mushroom filling on the bottom half of the sheet about 1½ inches apart.
• Dip a brush or finger into the water and wet the dough around each dollop of filling. Fold the top half of the dough over the filling and line it up with the bottom edge, but do not seal.
• Working from the top to bottom, gently press the dough together around each filling dollop, pressing out as much air as possible and gently sealing the dough.
• Use a ravioli cutter or a sharp knife to cut the ravioli into individual pieces and place them on the baking sheet.*
• Repeat the rolling and sealing processes with the remaining batches of dough and filling.
• Bring a large pot of salted water to boil over high heat. Preheat the oven to 175 degrees.
• Meanwhile, add the butter to a large skillet over medium heat. Swirl gently until the solids take on a caramel color, 4 to 6 minutes.
• Working in batches, boil the fresh ravioli 2 minutes, until the pasta is cooked and evenly colored.
• Remove with a spider or slotted spoon and place them in the brown butter. Swirl to coat, then remove to a large serving dish and keep warm in the oven while you cook the remaining ravioli.
• Garnish the butternut squash ravioli with Parmesan, toasted pistachios and grated nutmeg. Garnish the mushroom ravioli with chopped parsley and pepper.

*To freeze for later use, place the baking sheets of ravioli in the freezer 1 to 2 hours, then store in zip-top freezer bags up to 6 months. Cook from frozen in a large pot of salted boiling water 4 to 5 minutes, until al dente. Strain and serve in brown butter sauce.

 

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Photos by Michelle Volansky

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The Scoop: Stur Restaurant and Lounge in Edwardsville closes

Thursday, December 29th, 2016

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After two-and-a-half years in business, Stur Restaurant and Lounge has closed its doors in Edwardsville. The closure was announced on the restaurant’s Facebook page Tuesday, Dec. 27.

Co-owners Angie and John Schmitt opened Stur in June 2014 with a menu focused on cocktails, shared plates and appetizers. Schmitt opened with the help of My Mixologist, a consultancy program that designs cocktail menus and trains staff to create the beverages.

The Facebook post did not identify the reason for closing, but thanked its customers for their patronage. Angie Schmitt did not return requests for comments.

 

Related Content
The Scoop: Stur Restaruant and Lounge opens in Edwardsville 

• The Scoop: Queen’s Cuisine to open tea room in Edwardsville

 The Scoop: Foundry Public House to open in Edwardsville

 

Extra Sauce: Top 10 Scoops of 2016

Thursday, December 29th, 2016

From big chef changes at Niche Food Group to new taco restaurants in Kirkwood and steakhouses in Sunset Hills, here’s the dining news you were most excited about this year.

Don’t miss out! Follow Sauce Magazine on Facebook and Twitter to get The Scoop on the latest St. Louis-area restaurant news.

 

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1. The Scoop: Kirkwood to see new taco restaurant

2. The Scoop: Owners of Sugarfire Smoke House to open burger joint this fall

3. The Scoop: Catrinas opens in Edwardsville

 

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4. The Scoop: Jimmy’s on the Park closes after more than two decades

5. The Scoop: Joey B’s fourth location to open in April

6. The Scoop: Twisted Tree to open in Sunset Hills

 

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7. The Scoop: Nate Hereford to exit Niche, Brasserie’s Nick Blue to take the helm

8. The Scoop: Old Standard Fried Chicken to close

9. The Scoop: Two Plumbers Brewery & Arcade to open in St. Charles

 

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10. The Scoop: Firecracker Pizza and Beer to open in The Grove

 

Related Content
10 Best New Restaurants of 2016

Extra Sauce: Top 5 Dishes of 2016

Extra Sauce: Top 10 Sneak Peeks of 2016

Extra Sauce: Top 10 Sneak Peeks of 2016

Thursday, December 29th, 2016

From new arcade bars downtown to long-awaited breweries in Maplewood, here are the 10 places you couldn’t wait to check out before they opened in 2016.

Don’t miss out! Follow Sauce Magazine on Facebook and Twitter to get Sneak Peeks and First Looks of the latest St. Louis-area restaurant, bar and shop openings.

 

 

1. First Look: Start Bar downtown

2. Sneak Peek: Farm to You Market in Washington

 

 

3. Sneak Peek: Sardella in Clayton

4. Sneak Peek: The Sliced Pint in downtown St. Louis

5. Sneak Peek: Wicked Greenz in Clayton

 

 

6. Sneak Peek: Side Project Brewing in Maplewood

7. Sneak Peek: Yolklore in Crestwood

8. First Look: Catrinas in Edwardsville

 

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9. First Look: Nathaniel Reid Bakery in Kirkwood

10. Sneak Peek: Nixta in Botanical Heights

Photos by Michelle Volansky 

Related Content

10 Best New Restaurants of 2016

Extra Sauce: Top 5 Dishes of 2016

Extra Sauce: Top 10 Scoops of 2016

 

 

Extra Sauce: Top 5 Dishes of 2016

Thursday, December 29th, 2016

Sauce restaurant critic Michael Renner has tasted his fair share of St. Louis cuisine. All year, he shared his thoughts on New and Notable restaurants. Here, he shares his top five dishes of 2016:

 

5. Hakka Stir Fry at Tai Ke
In a single mouthful, this Taiwanese dish, consisting of matchstick slivers of pork, squid and dried tofu tossed with celery and garlic, managed to defy simplicity with a brilliant concatenation of complex flavors and textures.

 

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4. Brodetto at Parigi
This tomato-based fish stew was a picture-perfect bowl of snow-white fish, clams, mussels and head-on shrimp in a broth redolent with red wine vinegar and lemon zest. I did not come up for air until each shell was picked clean and every drop of intoxicating broth was sopped up with yeasty, crusty bread.

3. Potpie at Olive & Oak
Puncturing the buttery, flakey robe of crust revealed a treasure of mushrooms, kale, butternut squash and cauliflower through puffs of fragrant steam. The earthy roasted leek gravy proved that not every potpie requires chicken or beef.

 

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2. Vegetable Ramen at Vista Ramen
My veggie ramen at Vista was chock-full of cauliflower, shiitake mushrooms and carrots, though yours may vary. What won’t change is the broth’s deep, funky umami, so rich it seems like a liqueur.

 

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And the No. 1 Dish of the Year…
Catfish Po’ Boy Steamed Bun at Kounter Kulture
A dark-hued, crackling fried coating framed the natural succulence and fresh taste of catfish, all topped with an unforgettable sprinkle of spicy togarashi and douse of creamy shishito pepper-cherry tomato remoulade.

Parigi and Vista Ramen photos by Jonathan Gayman

Related Content
10 Best New Restaurants of 2016

New & Notable: Kounter Kulture

Extra Sauce: Top 5 Dishes of 2015

 

 

The Scoop: J McArthur’s to close, new concept from Robust owners to open

Wednesday, December 28th, 2016

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Changes are underway at 3500 Watson Road in Lindenwood Park. J McArthur’s An American Kitchen will close doors for good Dec. 31 after a year-and-a-half in business, according to co-owner Kathleen Bibbins.

The announcement comes four months after the original head chef Ben McArthur left the restaurant, and chef Will Volny took his place. McArthur’s father, John McArthur, owns the restaurant with Bibbins, his stepmother.

“We, and John in particular, worked with Ben to develop the restaurant. It was something he wanted to do for Ben, then it became a family venture,” Bibbins said. “When Ben left, it didn’t have the same family feel, the same family venture, that we hoped to have.”

Bibbins said Volny had done a wonderful job during his tenure as executive chef, but that she and her husband thought a new concept would better suit the space. “We so enjoyed putting out good food and good wine to people,” Bibbins said. “It was a really wonderful experience, but when things changed and we started shifting things about, it just didn’t make that much sense anymore.”

McArthur and Bibbins reached out to longtime friends and business partners Stanley and Arlene Browne, who own both locations of Robust Wine Bar. The couples will partner to open a new concept in late February or early spring.

Arlene Browne said they are currently consulting with Robust executive chef Joseph Hemp V to finalize the concept – but don’t look for a third location of their popular wine bar. “It’s not another Robust, but it certainly fits within our wheelhouse,” Browne said.

McArthur and Bibbins own the building and will have a stake in the new concept, but the Brownes will handle day-to-day operations. Browne said the project is bittersweet; she hates seeing J McArthur’s shutter, but she looks forward to launching a new restaurant. “I think it’s really important to always be evolving and always growing,” she said.

Photo by Jonathan Gayman

Related Content
• The Scoop: Ben McArthur leaves J. McArthur’s kitchen, Will Volny steps in

• New & Notable: J McArthur’s An American Kitchen

Best New Restaurants 2015: No. 6 – J McArthur’s An American Kitchen 

Extra Sauce: Top 5 Dishes of 2015

Just Five: Rubis Bulles Cocktail

Wednesday, December 28th, 2016

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Champagne is probably my favorite cocktail ingredient. I love a French 75, Black Velvet or a Kir Royale. They make me feel like I’m in a pretty cocktail dress wearing ridiculous shoes and laughing at the most charming stories that my adorable friends are telling – even if I’m just binge-watching Chopped in my pajamas.

Combine Champagne with gin, vodka and Lillet, a French aperitif with strong citrus notes, and you have a bubbly take on a classic Vesper cocktail. I add blood orange juice to give the drink wonderful color. Hosting New Year’s Eve? You can easily batch this into a punch for the party.

 

Rubis Bulles Cocktail
2 servings

1 Tbsp. hot water
1 Tbsp. sugar
2 oz. Lillet Blanc
1 oz. blood orange juice
1 oz. Hendricks or Nolet’s gin
2 oz. Champagne
2 blood orange peels, for garnish

• In a small bowl, make a simple syrup by combining the hot water and sugar, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.
• In large mixing glass, add 4 to 5 ice cubes, the Lillet, blood orange juice, gin and ½ ounce simple syrup. Strain into 2 Champagne flutes, top each with 1 ounce Champagne and garnish with a blood orange peel.

 

Related Content
Recipe: Panama Rum Punch
• Recipe: Ice Mold
• Recipe: Vesper Martini

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