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Oct 24, 2017
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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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By the Book: Einat Admony’s Harissa and Honey Hot Wings and Tangy Tabbouleh

October 8th 04:10pm, 2013

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Balaboosta: Bold Mediterranean Recipes to Feed the People You Love from Einat Admony is the first book by the Israeli chef. She’s worked in the kitchen for many fine-dining restaurants, including Bolo (which I loved), Danube and Tabla, but her first restaurant, Taïm, is anything but fine dining. It’s a hole in the wall where she serves dishes like falafel and hummus,  but her experience in fine-dining kitchens makes her everyday food special. You can see that in the book’s recipes, too, which is why it was so fun to use.

 

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These recipes are straightforward and unfussy. I tried out her honey harissa hot wings because our photographer Greg Rannells dropped off some homemade harissa to our office (He drops off gifts periodically. So nice!). The prep was a quick marinade of honey, olive oil, salt, harissa and lime juice whisked together and poured over the wings for an hour or overnight. I just let them marinade for three hours. The recipe recommends grilling them, but Admony provides a baking alternative I appreciated. The wings turned out delicious: spicy, sticky and sweet with a burnished skin from all that honey.

 

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I also tested her Tangy Tabbouleh, which was refreshing. I normally don’t like tabbouleh because it tends to be parsley-heavy, and honestly, parsley alone is too grassy. This version has parsley, but it also has cilantro, scallions and mint for a bright salad of herbs enhanced by a lemony zing.

 

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Harissa and Honey Hot Wings
4 to 6 Servings

½ cup honey
1/3 cup olive oil
3 Tbsp. World’s Best Harissa (Recipe follows. You can also used your favorite store-bought harissa.)
2 Tbsp. lime juice
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
3 lbs. chicken wings

• Whisk together all the ingredients except the chicken wings. Taste the marinade, and if you can handle a little more kick, add another dollop of harissa.
• Dry the chicken with paper towels, then coat thoroughly in the harissa and honey mixture. Allow the meat to marinate for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.
• Prepare a grill and cook the wings over a low flame for 15 to 20 minutes, flipping them over halfway through the cooking time. If you don’t have access to a grill, bake the chicken wings in the oven at 375 degrees for 30 minutes.

World’s Best Harissa
Makes about 2 ½ cups
10 garlic cloves
1 large roasted red bell pepper, peeled, cored, and seeded
1 ¼ cups canola oil, divided
¼ cup tomato paste
½ cup ground cumin
1/3 cup cayenne
1/3 cup sweet Hungarian paprika
¼ cup ground caraway
2 Tbsp. kosher salt

• Combine the garlic, bell pepper, 1 cup oil and the tomato paste in a food processor. Pulse until the mixture is almost pureed.
• Add the cumin, cayenne, paprika, caraway and salt. Slowly drizzle in the remaining ¼ cup oil while the machine is running. Keep processing until the harissa is completely pureed, and all the ingredients are thoroughly combined.
• Store the harissa in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to 3 months.

Tangy Tabbouleh
6 to 8 Servings

1 cup medium bulgur
1 cup fresh parsley, finely chopped
1 cup cilantro, finely chopped
4 scallions, finely chopped
¼ cup fresh mint, finely chopped
1 cup diced tomatoes
Zest of 2 lemons
¼ cup lemon juice
3 Tbsp. olive oil
2 tsp. kosher salt
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

• Pour enough hot water over the bulgur just to cover it and soak for 10 minutes. The bulgur will absorb most of the water, and it should have a slight crunch when you bite into one of the grains.
• Meanwhile, toss together the remaining ingredients in a very large bowl. Add the bulgur and mix thoroughly. Allow the salad to soak in all the wonderful tangy flavors for 30 minutes before serving.

Taïm may be a hole in the wall, but it serves up great food. What is your favorite St. Louis hole in the wall and why? Tell us about it in the comments section below for a chance to win a copy of Balaboosta by Einat Admony. We’ll announce the winner in next week’s By the Book column.

And now, we’d like to congratulate Lauren, whose comment on last week’s By the Book has won a copy of Ottolenghi: The Cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi. Lauren, keep an eye out for an email from the Sauce crew.

By admin

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8 Responses to “By the Book: Einat Admony’s Harissa and Honey Hot Wings and Tangy Tabbouleh”

  1. Ben King Says:
    October 10th, 2013 at 11:06 am

    As far as hole in the walls go there is no way anyone could have beaten The Gumbo Shop. They took the cake there. Some of if not the best Cajun food around. Unfortunately they were forced out of their Holly Hills location for a CVS and working on opening up another location. They were a weekly and sometimes more visit for me at lunch!

  2. Joe Says:
    October 10th, 2013 at 1:35 pm

    I would have to say Famous Szechuan Pavillion. It is not much to look at (furniture stacked against the wall, bare tables, blaring Chinese news) but it smells great and the food is fantastic as well! Oh, if you go, make sure you get a drink that is bottled or in a can…

  3. Earen Hummel Says:
    October 13th, 2013 at 9:03 am

    being new to St. Louis, I am still learning the food scene. It’s hard finding the great hole in the wall spots until you know enough locals.

  4. Hao Says:
    October 14th, 2013 at 2:51 pm

    the kitchen sink was a hole in the wall for a while. i think they’re in the process of moving/just moved to a bigger location now. i love that place.

    i have to second Famous Szechuan Pavilion. She makes my mother’s food better than my mom can. o.O but she doesn’t make my friend’s food as good as she makes mine (my friend is white)

    dao tien is across the street from famous szechuan pavilion and i’m shocked it’s not more loved because their pho is really really good as are their bahn mi.

  5. Raquel Says:
    October 14th, 2013 at 2:51 pm

    I have a strong like for I <3 mr sushi. It is a small and cozy restaurant with excellent service and food. Growing up in the Mediterranean I became accustomed to hole in the wall places as being the go-to spots for excellent food. To this day, I seek them out still. Taïm sounds like the kind of place I must check out soon! Thank you for this find!

  6. pk Says:
    October 14th, 2013 at 3:02 pm

    Amigos in Kirkwood. Just walking on the street one wouldnt think much of it until you step in and taste the food

  7. Kalila Says:
    October 14th, 2013 at 3:06 pm

    Hoagie City! Complete hole in the wall with awesome American/Korean food. It’s a tiny diner on a random street corner in downtown. There are just a couple of seats and the chef cooks your food to order – Very friendly, very tasty and very affordable – the Chef always offers us samples of different items on the menu, all very good but I always order the same thing; the Bulgogi hoagie is just too delicious!

  8. Lisa Says:
    October 14th, 2013 at 7:31 pm

    Kim Cheese in Chesterfield. It is located in an old Dairy Queen. There are maybe 4 tables inside and the name alone is cheesy enough to keep people away, but the Korean Mexican fusion food inside is unique, cheap and oh so good. Burgers with Korean BBQ meat on homemade buns and tacos and quesadillas with a Korean flair. Haven’t gone wrong with a menu item yet.

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