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SERVING SAINT LOUIS SINCE 1999
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Posts Tagged ‘Anthony Bourdain’

By the Book: Cooking from the Heart by John Besh

Wednesday, November 23rd, 2016

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James Beard Award-winning chef John Besh’s Cooking from the Heart is chock-full of recipes inspired by his native Louisiana, with whole chapters dedicated to types of seafood and wild game. Despite those more unfamiliar territories, the book was approachable and dishes were straightforward. I decided to try something from the wild game section. Since Kenrick’s doesn’t sell wild boar heads (yes, seriously), I went with something tamer: schmaltz with apples and rosemary.

Schmaltz usually refers to chicken fat, but here it’s made with good old-fashioned pork belly. The process is fairly simple: simmer all the ingredients in a large pot to render the fat, then let it cool and solidify in the refrigerator. Unfortunately, after nearly two hours of simmering and an overnight chill, my infused fat was still more liquid than solid. Only the top layer was hard enough to spread atop bread.

While the rosemary notes were pronounced, the apple wasn’t strong enough to power through the intense porky flavor. Slathering cold animal fat on a piece of bread was an odd way to consume it, too. Instead of eating it like butter, we brainstormed other possibilities for the remaining schmaltz: adding it to mashed potatoes, using it in place butter or lard for biscuits or tossing with root veggies for a decadent side.

Skill level: Recipes run the gamut from beginner to advanced.
Other recipes to try: Fried kale salad, cote de boeuf with red wine and porcini mushrooms, milk chocolate and hazelnut clafoutis
The verdict: Bourdain’s meatballs take the W this week.

 

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Schmaltz with Apples & Rosemary
Makes 1 small bowl

3 lbs. pork belly, cut into small chunks
2 onions, peeled and quartered
4 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
2 apples, cored and quartered
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

• Combine the pork belly, onions, garlic, apples, and 4 cups water in a large heavy-bottomed pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and slowly simmer for 45 minutes. Add the rosemary and reduce the heat to low. Simmer until the water has evaporated and the rendered fat is clear and slightly bubbly, about 1 hour.
• Strain the rendered fat through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Chill. Serve on warm, crusty bread.

 

Reprinted with permission from Andrews McNeal Publishing 

By the Book: Appetites by Anthony Bourdain

Thursday, November 17th, 2016

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Like most food writers in their 20s and 30s, I aspired to have Anthony Bourdain’s career once. Jetting around the world, partaking in phenomenal food and drink while someone else footed the bill? That was the life. Alas, Sauce Magazine doesn’t have the same travel budget as CNN, but I’ve continued to live vicariously through Bourdain’s TV series and memoirs. He finally released a cookbook inspired not by his decades of globetrotting, but rather by dishes he cooks on rare nights at home with his 8-year-old daughter.

Bourdain devotes an entire chapter to sandwiches, and I opted to make his Meatball Parm Hero. Equal parts ground beef, pork and veal (or in my case, lamb) are mashed with sauteed garlic, onion and fresh herbs, then pan-seared and gently braised in white wine and a homemade pomodoro sauce. Three meats seemed excessive, but each provided intense flavor and a different element: heft, tenderness and fat.

To assemble, simply pile three meatballs on a sturdy roll, add more sauce, drape with mozzarella and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and broil until the cheese is gooey and browned. I no longer want to be Bourdain (All that jetsetting seems exhausting.), but if this is how he cooks on nights off, I’ll happily eat like him.

Skill level: Easy-ish. Recipes are longer, but they are straightforward and incredibly helpful.
Other recipes to try: Chicken Satay with Fake-Ass Spicy Peanut Sauce, Cast-Iron Grilled Chicken, Meatloaf with Mushroom Gravy
The verdict: Tender meatballs and gooey cheese knocked the lemon cookies off the winner’s pedestal.

 

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Meatball Parm Hero
8 servings

3 Tbsp. plus ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow or white onion, peeled and finely diced (about 2 cups)
4 to 6 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
6 sprigs fresh oregano, leaves only, finely chopped
10 to 12 sprigs fresh Italian parsley, leaves only, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 lb. ground beef chuck
1 lb. ground veal
1 lb. ground pork
1 cup panko breadcrumbs
2 eggs, lighten beaten
1½ cups dry white wine
1 quart Pomodoro (recipe follows)
4 Italian semolina hero rolls with sesame seeds, cut in half lengthwise and crosswise
8 oz. fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced
4 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated

Special Equipment
Short-sided roasting pan large enough to hold 25 to 30 meatballs (11-by-14-inch or similar)
Instant-read thermometer

• In a large, heavy-bottom saute pan, heat 3 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, oregano, and parsley, and stir well to coat with the oil. Season with salt and pepper and let cook over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft and translucent but not browned. Remove from the heat and transfer the onion mixture to a large mixing bowl. Let cool to room temperature. Clean the pan, which you will use to brown the meatballs.
• Add the beef, veal, and pork to the mixing bowl, along with the breadcrumbs and eggs. Season with salt and pepper. Mix well by hand. Form the mixture into 25 to 30 2-inch balls, placing each one on a sheet pan as you form it. Cover the meatballs with plastic wrap and refrigerate them for 15 to 60 minutes.
• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Remove the meatballs from the fridge.
• Heat ¼ cup oil in the saute pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches, sear the meatballs on all sides in the oil, turning them carefully with the spatula and tongs and adding more oil as necessary to keep them from sticking to the pan. Remove the cooked meatballs to the roasting pan.
• Once all the meatballs are in the roasting pan, add the wine and 1 cup of the pomodoro sauce to the pan so that the liquid reaches about halfway up the sides of each meatball. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, until cooked through but still juicy (the interior of a meatball should reach 150 degrees on an instant-read thermometer.
• While the meatballs are cooking, in a small, heavy-bottom saucepot, gently warm the remaining pomodoro sauce, stirring occasionally to keep it from scorching.
• Remove the meatballs from the oven, and set the oven to broil.
• On the clean sheet tray, arrange 3 meatballs in the center of each of 8 hero roll bottoms. Add a few tablespoons of pomodoro sauce to each set of meatballs and drape each with a slice of mozzarella and a good sprinkling of the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Place the sandwiches under the broiler for about 2 minutes, until the mozzarella is slightly browned and bubbling. Top each with the remaining bread and serve immediately.

 

Pomodoro
5 cups

10 ripe red plum tomatoes
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
¼ tsp. red pepper flakes
1 28-ounce can peeled plum tomatoes and their juices
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 Tbsp. (¼ stick) unsalted butter
6 fresh basil leaves, gently torn into a few pieces

Special Equipment
Ice-water bath (large bowl filled with ice and cold water)
Immersion blender

• Fill a large, heavy-bottom pot with water and bring it to a boil. Use paring or serrated knife to cut an X on both ends of each fresh plum tomato. Once the water boils, add the tomatoes to the pot, working in two batches if necessary to avoid overcrowding the pot or reducing the temperature too drastically. Allow the tomatoes to simmer in the water for about 30 seconds, until the skin begins to loosen and peel away from the flesh. Using tongs, remove the tomatoes to the ice-water bath. Once the tomatoes are cool enough to handle, peel off and discard the skin, squeeze out and discard the seeds, and coarsely chop the flesh.
• In a large, heavy-bottom sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-low heat and add the onion, garlic, and pepper flakes. Let cook 1 to 2 minutes, stirring to keep the aromatics from browning, then add the chopped plum tomatoes and the canned tomatoes and their juices, squeezing the canned tomatoes by hand to crush them up a bit before they go into the pan. Stir well, season lightly with salt and pepper, and let cook for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have completely broken down.
• Remove the sauce from the heat and use the immersion blender to puree the sauce. (You may wish to carefully transfer the sauce to a large, deep mixing bowl, which will make it easier to manipulate the blender.) Return the sauce to gentle heat, add the butter, and cook and stir until the butter has been incorporated into the sauce. Stir in the basil leaves. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary.

Reprinted with permission from Ecco Publishing 

 

By the Book: Gabriele Bonci’s Pizzas

Saturday, July 5th, 2014

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I first learned of chef Gabriele Bonci on an episode of Travel Channel’s “The Layover,” when host Anthony Bourdain traveled to Rome and went to a tiny restaurant near Vatican City called Pizzarium. There were no seats, just a counter, and under a sheet of glass, Roman-style pizzas were on display. These long, thick rectangles are definitely not the traditional Neapolitan-style pizzas commonly associated with Italy.

Bonci used scissors to cut up dozens of pies for Bourdain, from a more traditional Margherita and a potato pizza to the show-stopping foie gras with berries and a Hawaiian pizza. His toppings were inventive, but Bonci is best known for his dough, and that’s what spurred me to try Pizzarium last month during a trip to Italy – and to try my hand at his new cookbook, Pizza: Seasonal Recipes from Rome’s Legendary Pizzarium.

 

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{Our selfie with Bonci at Pizzarium}

 

He’s been called “The Michelangelo of dough,” and while it’s a pretty lofty title, I can’t really argue after trying his pizzas. The crust isn’t pillowy and airy like Neapolitan-style pizza; instead it has a more artisan bread feel. It’s denser with more chew. It’s also complicated; he spends nearly 14 pages of the book detailing exactly how to make it.

Cooks more ambitious than I will attempt to make the dough, but for my impromptu pizza party, I used my go-to pizza dough and experimented with his fun topping combinations instead. Several recipes require baking pizzas with only some toppings, then finishing them with fresh or raw ingredients after they are removed from the oven – a revelation!

 

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I started with Bonci’s Margherita, which requires that you only bake the dough with the sauce, the remove it from the oven at top it with mozzarella and basil. This worked well; it kept the crust crisp, the herbs had more flavor and the cheese started to melt when it was served but wasn’t a watery mess.

 

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Next, I tried his zucchini pizza (Uncle Pietro’s Uncle Pizza), which saw the sliced summer squash baked onto the crust, then removed from the oven and finished with ricotta, raw zucchini and olive oil. The flavor was bright, redolent of springtime, and instantly took me back to my visit at Pizzarium, where I had this exact pie. Finally, I made the shrimp pizza. Like the Margherita, only the sauce was baked onto the dough, and was then topped with sauteed shrimp and a nice remoulade-type sauce – think shrimp cocktail via Italy.

I loved cooking out of this book for its inventive toppings, but most of all, I loved reliving my Roman holiday through my kitchen and sharing it with family and friends.

Classic Pizza with Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella, and Basil
3 to 4 servings

1 12-oz. ball pizza dough
Extra virgin olive oil to taste
2 cups canned peeled tomatoes
Fine sea salt to taste
1 lb. buffalo mozzarella
3 cups loosely packed basil leaves

• Preheat the oven to 450 to 475 degrees.
• Stretch the dough and place it in a well-oiled pan. Place the tomatoes in a small bowl. Drizzle the tomatoes with a little oil, season with salt and toss to combine. Squeeze the tomatoes through your fingers to break them up and drop them onto the dough.
• Bake the pizza until golden brown and well-risen, about 25 minutes.
• Remove the pizza from the oven. Immediately tear the cheese into pieces by hand and scatter it over the pizza. Scatter on the basil leaves, then drizzle with some oil and season with salt.

Uncle Pietro Uncle’s Pizza
3 to 4 servings

1 12-oz. ball pizza dough
Extra virgin olive oil to taste
1 lb. zucchini
10 oz. sheep’s milk ricotta
Fine sea salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Grated nutmeg to taste

• Preheat the oven to 450 to 475 degrees.
• Stretch out the dough and place it in a well-oiled pan. Slice the zucchini very thinly (a mandoline works well) and arrange about two-thirds of the zucchini slices in a single layer on the dough, reserving the rest.
• Bake the pizza until golden brown and well-risen, about 25 minutes.
• Remove the pizza from the oven and let it cool for at least 5 minutes. Distribute the ricotta on top of the cooked zucchini, then place the raw zucchini slices on top of the cheese. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Shrimp Cocktail Pizza
3 to 4 servings

1 yellow onion, minced
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to taste
1 apple, peeled, cored and minced
2 cups tomato puree
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
2 Tbsp. granulated sugar
1 cup apple cider vinegar
2 whole cloves
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 12-oz. ball pizza dough
2 cups canned peeled tomatoes
10 large shrimp
1 head frisee (I used arugula.)

• Make the ketchup: In a medium saucepan, saute the onion in a small amount of oil over medium eat until softened. Add the apple, tomato puree, bell pepper, sugar, vinegar and cloves. Bring to a simmer and simmer until thickened, about 1 hour. Remove and discard the cloves, then puree the entire mixture in a blender and set aside to cool. (This is more ketchup than you will need for this recipe, but if you place the remaining ketchup in a clean jar and refrigerate it, it will last for up to 1 week.)
• Make the mayonnaise: Emulsify the eggs with the ¾ cup oil. An immersion blender is the best tool for the job.
• Make the cocktail sauce: Combine about 1 ½ cups of the mayonnaise with 3 tablespoons of the ketchup.
• When you are ready to bake the pizza, preheat the oven to 450 to 475 degrees.
• Stretch the dough and place it in a well-oiled pan. Crush the canned peeled tomatoes and scatter them onto the dough.
• Bake the pizza until golden brown and well-risen, about 25 minutes.
• While the pizza is baking, in a saute pan over medium heat, cook the shrimp in a small amount of oil until just pink, about 5 minutes. Shell and devein the cooked shrimp, but leave them whole.
• Remove the pizza from the oven and tear the frisee leaves over it, letting them fall on top of the tomatoes. Top with the cocktail sauce and the warm shrimp.

Reprinted with permission from Rizzoli International Publications

What recipe takes you back to a favorite vacation? Tell us about it in the comments below for a chance to win a copy of Pizza.

Sauce Celebrity Chef Series presents No Reservations: A Night with Anthony Bourdain

Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010

080310_BourdainFresh on the heels of today’s sold-out cooking demo and book signing with Rick Bayless, we’re excited to announce the next event in the Sauce Celebrity Chef Series: No Reservations: A Night With Anthony Bourdain, presented in partnership with the Fox Theatre.

Spend what will no doubt be an entertaining evening with the legendary outspoken chef when he appears live on the Fox Theatre stage in support of his latest book, Medium Raw: A Bloody Valentine to the World of Food and the People Who Cook. Tickets, priced from $29.50 to $49.50, will go on sale this Saturday via MetroTix and the Fox box office.

But Sauce readers have an exclusive opportunity to jump the queue for the Oct. 1 event: Starting tomorrow at 10 a.m., click here to purchase advance tickets. Enter promo code SAUCE for regular admission tickets, or enter promo code SAUCEVIP for $125 VIP admission, which includes a premium seat for the show, a copy of Medium Raw, and a meet and greet book signing with Bourdain. The Sauce Magazine advance sale ends at 10 p.m. on Fri., Aug. 6.

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