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Posts Tagged ‘Anthony Devoti’

The Scoop: J. Devoti Grocery to open inside Five Bistro

Friday, April 17th, 2015



{Anthony Devoti’s grandfather (third from left) with employees from the original J. Devoti Grocery}


Five Bistro chef-owner Anthony Devoti is set to resurrect a family tradition this May. Devoti’s great-grandfather, Joe Devoti, opened J. Devoti Grocery off Olive Boulevard after immigrating to St. Louis from Italy, and his son (Anthony Devoti’s grandfather) operated it for decades. More than 100 years later, the fourth generation is bringing back the J. Devoti’s inside his restaurant.

The permanent grocery will replace Devoti’s rotating pop-up concept on the bar side of Five. The grocery will feature a small, carefully selected stock of local cheese, wine, produce, canned and preserved offerings from the restaurant’s ample garden and baked treats – including those famous macarons – from pastry chef (and a member of this year’s Ones to Watch class) Britt Simpson.

“I’ve wanted to do something like this for three years,” Devoti said. “My aunt recently showed me this picture and I thought, ‘This is it.’ It’s all really worked and is a family thing.”

It’s also a staff thing. Devoti said the crew at Five Bistro supports the idea, and now that he is not on the line every night, he can focus on expanding the retail side. Part of that expansion, he said, will include the addition of Saturday lunch featuring burgers made with house-butchered beef. Devoti also hopes to add a lamb burger using Jenna Pohl’s Midwest Lamb. Pohl is also a member of the 2015 Ones to Watch Class.

“You can spend Saturday hitting all the shops on The Hill, then hit us for some boutique olive oil and a burger,” Devoti said. “This really fits our beliefs of selling properly made, top-quality food.”


Sneak Peek: Il Poggio

Wednesday, August 27th, 2014

Five Bistro chef-owner Anthony Devoti has bid farewell to the (mostly) vegetarian abundance of Root & Vine. Beginning tonight, Aug. 27, he’ll serve up hearty northern Italian fare at Il Poggio, his newest pop-up concept on the bar side of his restaurant at 5100 Daggett Ave., on The Hill.

Il Poggio, which means “the hill” in Italian, is the third of Devoti’s rotating concept restaurants since February. The first, Mon Petit Chou, celebrated French cuisine; Root & Vine focused on the bounty of spring and summer produce, much of it grown in Devoti’s garden at Five Bistro.

At Il Poggio, Devoti showcases house-made salumi, including house-made mortadella studded with crunchy pistachios, and handmade pastas like butternut squash ravioli and gnocchi. The seven-course prix-fixe meal begins with an amuse of house-smoked salmon with a swath of creamy dill sauce, red onion and garden cucumbers. From there, standout dishes include simple, yet intensely flavorful eggplant Parmesan; paper-thin, jewel-like slices of beef carpaccio with pickled vegetables; and a rich, flavorful, pork trotter ragú.

Wine pairings are available for an additional $30 and reflect the many varieties of Northern Italy, from a delightfully tangy, young orange pinot grigio to a robust, Burgundy-like pinot nero.

The Il Poggio menu is available Wednesdays through Saturdays, and reservations are encouraged. Devoti expects Il Poggio to run through October with slight menu changes to accommodate seasonal produce. Here’s a look at what to expect:


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The Scoop: Five Bistro’s Anthony Devoti to launch rotating concept restaurant

Thursday, January 16th, 2014



A bit of construction is underway at Five Bistro that will lead to big changes in the bar area of The Hill restaurant. Chef-owner Anthony Devoti recently shared his plans to add a small, rotating concept restaurant within Five Bistro. He hopes to launch the first concept in mid-February, just after Valentine’s Day.

The main dining room will continue to serve Five Bistro’s regular menu of seasonal offerings, but the bar area will be divided by a newly installed wall to create a more intimate, 600-square-foot space where Devoti will serve a unique five-course menu to 20 diners. The theme of the menu will rotate every 8 to 10 weeks, allowing him to introduce four or five concepts during the course of a year, similar to Grant Achatz’s restaurant Next in Chicago.

“It is like opening a new restaurant without leaving the building, and getting to utilize some of the concepts and ideas that we have without having to get up and go hunt down a landlord,” he said.

The first concept will be a French bistro theme called Mon Petit Chou. That menu could include offerings like a frisee salad with lardons and deviled eggs, fluke in buerre blanc and chocolate bouchons, Devoti said. Subsequent themes might include upscale American-Italian fare or an all-vegetarian menu.

When Mon Petit Chou launches, its menu will be offered Wednesdays through Saturdays, with two, reservations-only seatings. The menu will be priced around $45 and will include dishes prepared with seasonal produce from Five Bistro’s garden and local purveyors.

-photo by Greg Rannells


In This Issue: A Chat with Bonnie and Joe Devoti

Tuesday, November 5th, 2013



Bonnie and Joe Devoti win Best Parents Award. After raising two sons and working nearly 30 years – she at Southwestern Bell, he at Blue Cross – they came out of retirement to help their son, chef Anthony Devoti, turn his farm-to-table concept into a reality. Seven years later, Devoti’s mom and dad are still at Five Bistro, still smiling.

How did you get involved with Five?
We visited Anthony in San Francisco where they were doing farm-to-table things. He said, “I want to come home and do this.” When he came home, we did a little bit of catering out of our home. It got to be really big, and we said, “We need to get this out of the house.”

Did you plan on helping out for so long?
J: We said, “We’ll give you a little help for about a year.”

You even moved closer to Five.
J: We were living in Chesterfield when he opened this place. We’d drive down and be there until 8 or 9 at night. We said, “This is insane.” So we moved to The Hill.
B: We saw that little man flying in front of Hampton Inn saying, “If you lived here, you’d be home.” We’d say, “Oh, my gosh, we would! And we gotta ride all the way to Chesterfield!”

What are your roles now?
Joe and I clean the place.
J: We call it “volunteer work.”
B: If you go into a restaurant and the restroom is clean, it has a lot to say about what’s happening there. But our biggest role is meeting and knowing our customers.
J: We make rounds to the tables.

Has technology been a learning curve?
B: Now we have Open Table [reservation system].
J: But we were doing things manually. We’d be forwarding the restaurant’s phone to our cell phones.
B: So you’re walking through Dierbergs, and your phone rings and you have the reservation book in the purse. We didn’t want to miss a reservation.

Have the composed dishes at Five inspired you to cook fancy meals at home?
Oh, yeah. We’ll take a picture and send it to him [Anthony] and say, “Do you need any help over there?”

 What were dinners like when your kids were growing up?
J: We were comfort food kind of people: meatloaf, stew, roasts, steaks, lots of chicken.
B: We would plan the meals, and one of the boys would start it so that when we got home at 6:30 or 7 p.m., we could sit down and eat. I’m really very proud that every night we ate dinner together.

Who’s cooking Thanksgiving dinner?
B: Anthony always makes the meat entree. I bring my mom’s dressing. It’s so good.

Who’s the cook at home?
J: We cook together – and we’re still married.

After being married almost 45 years, do you do everything together?
B: He just showed me this article in The Wall Street Journal. It said retirees should not spend so much time together. It hurt my feelings.

How much longer will you lend a hand at Five?
B: I don’t know if I’d ever want to pull away from here totally.
J: We’re not ancient, but it’s nice being around young people.

What’s the hardest thing about working with family?
J: To say, “This is your business partner, not your son.”
B: I’m Miss Sensitivity. These kids out here are my extended family. So if he [Anthony] gets gruff with them, it’s like “Don’t holler at your little sister.”

What’s the best thing about working with family?
B: We are so proud of him, I could just cry. The best thing for me: seeing your child be a success.

 -photo by Ashley Gieseking


The Scoop: Five Bistro to focus on tasting and late-night menus

Friday, August 26th, 2011

082611_fiveAfter the evening service this Saturday, the crew at Five Bistro will be taking a two-week break before reopening on September 13 with more tasting options and a special late-night menu.

For some time now, chef-owner Anthony Devoti has offered 3-course tasting menus for $25 on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays (Check out a sample menu here.). Soon, this increasingly taste-centric eatery will include the addition of a 5-course prix fixe for $55 on Fridays and Saturdays as well. Devoti hopes this “unbelievable deal” – both for the price as well as the product (90 percent of which is locally sourced) – will be well received and that it will pave the way for two distinct 5-course tasting menus at the restaurant in the future. For the moment, an à la carte menu will still be available at the restaurant, located at 5100 Daggett Ave., on The Hill, when it reopens next month.

Also in September, Devoti will launch a late-night menu at Five, which will be available Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 10 p.m. until midnight. Moonlight revelers can rest assured that the restaurant’s famed Five Burger will be available, along with other pub-grub-with-a twist items like fried deviled eggs and poutine, a Quebec specialty consisting of French fries and cheese curds topped with gravy. “We want to give people more late-night options,” Devoti explained.

Ask the Chef: Anthony Devoti answers your questions

Tuesday, July 19th, 2011

071911_devotebenneIn the first installment of our new online column, Ask the Chef, we put down our pens to let you – our readers – take a turn asking some of the stars in St. Louis’ culinary scene your burning questions. First up is Anthony Devoti, chef and owner of Five Bistro and the shuttered Newstead Tower Public House. And now, from how he got his start to whether he’d ever open another Newstead to his cheese of choice for his cheese steak, he answers your questions …

How did you get started cooking?
Well, we’ve always cooked at home. My folks always cooked a bunch and I’ve always been around food; it’s always been something I’ve been interested in growing up. My grandparents owned a couple restaurants, more I would say breakfast and lunch places. I don’t know if you’d call them greasy spoons but they were more like eggs and toast and working man’s kind of food. My dad worked there when he was a kid; my aunts and uncles all worked there when they were kids. And holiday events, we’re an Italian family and so food was a big deal when we all got together.

How do you source those awesome ingredients?
Well when I first started a lot of this stuff I went to markets for. I was actually actively going to markets meeting farmers. Now I don’t really have to do a whole lot; farmers come to me. They know what we do, we have a good reputation with farmers and we have really good cooks so I think farmers are very proud to bring their products to me. When I first started, I knew Ron Benne (pictured at left) for like six years. I was working in a restaurant in Chesterfield and tried to get that restaurant to be a farm-to-table-to-kitchen type of restaurant. So I met Ron when I was working out there, and when I moved back to St. Louis from San Francisco he was the first person I called. He gave me tips on how to meet these people. I went online and did a bunch of research before the restaurant opened, too. For the last couple of years … people just bring me stuff or they call and they say, “I have this, this and this – do you want it?” Chef-wise we bring each other up, too. Some people say, “Hey this product is unbelievable. I know this guy is good and he will take care of it.” I met Mike Brabo from Vesterbrook [Farm] from Kevin Nashan. Kevin said this guy is a great cook, he loves food and is a really good guy and he would do justice to that product.

A food district executive told me the locavore movement is a “fad, unsustainable and too expensive for 97 percent of consumers.” What are your thoughts?
I just think it’s the stupidest thing I’ve ever heard. … Locavore is not a movement; it should be a practice. You can eat local if you want to sacrifice and you want to eat real, local food, then you can do it. Is it a little more expensive? Yes, of course. But we grow a bunch of vegetables on our own; it’s not exactly hard to do. I think that that’s a pretty big cop out kind of answer. You have to want to eat good food to eat local. And just because you’re buying local food it means the product’s going to be better but if you don’t know how to cook it, it’s not going to help anything. It’s up to us to all get together. The more people who eat local and buy local, the more readily available it will be, the more farmers who will take care of us. When you go to the grocery store and 80 percent of things are made from corn or corn-based, that’s not really helpful. People have been eating local since the beginning of man. That, to me, is just a stupid comment from the food executive.

Who do you see as upcoming stars of the St. Louis food scene?
I don’t really know; I think the stars are relatively established. I think Adam [Altnether] over at Taste; he’s a really good guy, kind of a fun person to watch I guess. I think there’s a lot of Gerard [Craft] influence in his food personally, but he’s a great guy and he can certainly think on his own. You have to be a really good cook and he’s a really good cook. I eat in a circle of restaurants and I do a circle of things, and so I like Kevin [Nashan] and I like Gerard’s stuff and Josh [Galliano] and those guys. But when I eat out, I typically eat ethnic food; I don’t really go eat at those guys’ restaurants a lot of times because they’re closed when I’m off. Adam I think is a big one. I got a couple guys working for me that I think are pretty kick-ass cooks, and one day they’ll probably end up leaving, but I hope not. I know what they can do.

As many huge strides as St. Louis has taken, I think there are a lot of steps that go backward too. That doesn’t help what people are trying to do food-wise. … People go to culinary school and they think that, oh I’m gonna go to culinary school and I’m gonna be there for six months to a year, and then I’ll work in a hotel and then I’ll work at Five [Bistro]. That’s not how it is. It sucks, it’s hard, it’s hot and it’s even shittier and hotter on days like today. You have to really love what you do to be in this spot.

Newstead made my St. Louis top five list. The burger is simply the best. The service was great! What were the reasons to close?
To be fairly frank and straightforward, we had to close Newstead because of business. It was a lot of people’s top five but it wasn’t enough people’s top five. The quality of the product we were using there was very expensive; it was the same as we do at Five. We had to do a lot of people to turn that over. And The Grove neighborhood hasn’t done anything. It hasn’t done anything since Five was over there. … It was a cool spot and it was an awesome building, but the rest of the neighborhood wasn’t there. I can think of other corners it would’ve been better on; if it was on any of those corners it wouldn’t even be a question.

Are there any reasons that would get you to open another?
I don’t know – a really good location probably. I’m in the spot now [where] I would want to own my own building; I wouldn’t lease ever again. We own our building at Five, and there’s a lot of BS that comes along with it – if the air conditioner breaks, you’re responsible for fixing it – but I wouldn’t change that for anything, the control that you have. We talk about it all the time. That’s pretty much the only reason we do lunch at Five is the burger at Newstead. We only do it three days a week, but that’s something that we kind of wanted to keep going and keep alive and something we felt very strongly about.

Which do you prefer on a cheese steak sandwich: provolone, Provel or Cheese Whiz?
Cheese Whiz. It can be as processed and as terrible and synthetic as whatever, but Cheese Whiz for sure.

Any sous chef opportunities at your restaurant right now?
No, I don’t hire out for chef management kind of things. We build up totally from within. The crew that I have, the person that’s been there the least amount of time is, well we’ve got two new people at six months. Everybody else is two to three years plus. It’s work up to that position for us. It’s because I’m relatively difficult to work for. I think I’m easy to work with, but we have very high expectations. We do a lot of canning and jarring and we buy lots of potatoes and things in the winter. You have to understand the seasonality of what we do. … We brainstrom about menus and what we’re going to do; it’s a pretty open idea process we have going on. And when asparagus season is only six weeks long, people don’t really get that. … When we get further on, you really understand the best timing of things and the seasonality of all of it. You can work [at] some of these places for a couple years before you really understand that. We’re always learning. We’re a bunch of food dorks to the core. We get off on reading magazines and watching TV and reading books about food and that’s what we talk about whenever we’re around each other. And we have a big garden so we enjoy gardening too; that’s a big deal to us.

— Photo by Greg Rannells

Ask the Chef: We’ve asked chef Anthony Devoti every question in the book. Now, it’s your turn.

Thursday, July 14th, 2011

102710_ADevotiWelcome to Ask the Chef, a new online column in which we take a step back from our journalistic duties to let you, our readers, talk to some of the best and brightest in St. Louis’ culinary scene. First up: Anthony Devoti.

As chef-owner of Five Bistro, the farm-to-table restaurant that sits on the corner of Daggett Avenue and Hereford Street on The Hill, Anthony Devoti is one of the area’s most renowned chefs. A meal at Five is a glimpse of the locavore movement, featuring local and organic produce, freshly caught fish and naturally raised meat prepared using a variety of cooking techniques. Devoti prides himself on using ingredients from several area farmers he has close relationships with, changing his menu daily to provide his diners with a taste of the seasons and the region. A devotee to nose-to-tail cooking, he’s the in-house butcher and charcutier at Five, which he runs alongside his parents (who will greet you at the door with a smile as you walk in).

He’s also the former chef-owner of the now shuttered Newstead Tower Public House, a seasonally focused gastropub and home to what many local food folk have deemed the best burger in the city. Devoti is well-versed in St. Louis’ bustling craft beer scene and can hold his own with a wine list, often handpicking the bottles for the wine and beer dinners he regularly offers to diners at his restaurants.

Devoti’s skills in the kitchen have even garnered a bit of national attention. Earlier this year, he was up for Food and Wine Magazine’s first People’s Best New Chef award for the Midwest region, a new accolade where voters determine the winner. And just last April, Eater included the Five burger on its list of 15 of the Country’s Hottest Burgers.

So there you have it – a few things about this talented chef (more on Devoti’s credentials here). Now, get your pens out (Or shall we say keyboards?) because it’s your turn to play reporter. From what makes the Five Burger so darn tasty to his favorite way to prepare pork to how he really felt about having to close Newstead, this is your chance to ask one of St. Louis’ stars whatever’s on your mind. And it couldn’t be easier. Just post your question on our Facebook wall, tweet us your question with the hashtag #askthechef  or e-mail us here. We’ll be chatting with Devoti next Tuesday, so be sure to get your questions in quickly and check back next week to see if he answered your queries. So what are you waiting for? Go on, ask the chef!

Five Bistro’s burger receives national praise

Wednesday, April 27th, 2011

062610_thumbsCheers to chef-owner Anthony Devoti and the talented crew over at Five Bistro, whose burger made the Eater Heat Map: the website’s list of 15 of the country’s hottest burgers. Another cheers to Riverfront Times‘ dining critic Ian Froeb, quoted in the Eater piece for describing Devoti’s burger as “cleaner, lighter, with a definite mineral edge.” As you may remember, this is Eater’s second mention of our fair city recently. Just last week, the website released another of its ritual Heat Maps, this time to 14 of what it called “newish locales that have been garnering serious buzz.”

Three local chefs and a sommelier named Beard Awards semifinalists

Thursday, February 17th, 2011

021811_jamesbeardA Saucy congrats goes to local chefs Gerard Craft of Niche, Kevin Nashan of Sidney Street Cafe and Kevin Willmann of Farmhaus Restaurant and sommelier (and Sauce columnist) Glenn Bardgett of Annie Gunn’s, who have been named semifinalists for the 2011 James Beard Foundation Awards – the chefs in the Best Chef Midwest category and Bardgett in the Outstanding Wine Service category. Semifinalists were announced this morning; finalists for the prestigious award, dubbed “the Oscars of the food world,” will be announced March 21, with the winners announced at a gala ceremony in New York on May 9. The news comes just two days after Willmann, Josh Galliano of Monarch and Anthony Devoti of Five Bistro garnered national attention with inclusion on Food and Wine magazine’s list of People’s Best New Chef nominees, a new award where diners vote to determine the winner.

In a Saucy turn of events, The Scoop unexpectedly became the bearer of the exciting news this morning when sending a text message of well wishes to the three chefs. Neither Craft nor Nashan had realized that he had been named a semifinalist. All three chefs expressed their excitement for the honor. “My only words are I love U STL,” texted Nashan. Willmann responded, “I’m so excited for STL and all of her great cooks!” While Craft texted, “The feeling is good with big plans in the works.” However, he did not enumerate what those “big plans” were.

Three local chefs up for F&W’s People’s Best New Chef

Tuesday, February 15th, 2011

021511_F&WIn addition to Food and Wine’s annual Best New Chef award, the magazine has launched the first ever People’s Best New Chef award – a title granted by the people rather than the magazine’s editors – and three local talents are on the list. A Saucy congrats to Josh Galliano, executive chef at Monarch; Kevin Willmann, executive chef at Farmhaus; and Anthony Devoti, executive chef at Five Bistro, who are all in the running for the title of People’s Best New Chef for the Midwest region and a profile in the July 2011 issue of Food and Wine.

You can do your part to ensure one of these local chefs takes home the medal by voting for your favorite here.

And another Saucy shout-out to Sauce snapper Greg Rannells whose photograph of Devoti is featured on the awards’ official Web site.

Now get voting!

All of our coverage of Josh Galliano

All of our coverage of Kevin Willmann

All of our coverage of Anthony Devoti

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